Nearly there now.

[awol]

A nice neat build.
I wonder how many people will spot where your controller is.

 

[anotherkiwi]

In the HL battery!

Well it could have been

Yes very clean!

 

[Neil5403]

No I copied the idea from Dave etc on here. I put it in a drinks bottle.
Cut the bottle in half and then used a heat gun on the top section to expand it slightly so it slides nicely over the lower section making a weather tight seal.
So on a 48v 17amp controller, what would you say would be the cutoff low voltage?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

48v batteries cut off at about 38v to 40v.

 

[Neil5403]

Thanks. Gives me a guide to work to.
May try a 30+ miler tomw.

 

[Nealh]

KT's are 40v std you can up it to 41.5v C12 & 7, which is nearly 3.2v per cell. 3.3 (42.9v) or 3.4 (44.2v) is a more suitable lv limit if you want to be conservative. Use the lcd3 for voltage reading.
The battery BMS for Eclipse is set for 36.4v or 2.8v per cell.

 

[Neil5403]

So going on the settings from post no 1 what does it look like my lower voltage setting is set to?
Shall I leave it at that or alter it as I would like to prolong the life of the battery as much as possible.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Use your brain to manage your battery if you want long life, not settings in the display.

 

[Nealh]

So going on the settings from post no 1 what does it look like my lower voltage setting is set to?
Shall I leave it at that or alter it as I would like to prolong the life of the battery as much as possible.

Currently 40v C12 & 4. The highest LVC you can set is as I stated 41.5v.
If not using a watt meter then use the LCD voltage reading as a guide and compare the LCD reading from your battery with a hand held meter. 41.5 is approx. 3.19v per cell, generally low for discharging if you want longevity aim for 3.4 - 3.6v per cell as a min discharge level.
Do the maths 13 cells x cell discharge level = lvc you are happy with.

 

[Neil5403]

I was enquiring what my LCD was set to, so I knew at what point is would cut out at, or does it not cut out and just carry on discharging?
Didn't understand what you meant by C12 & 4. Despite 'using my brain!'
Did a longer ride today of 37 miles. 2 degrees and wet!
The battery meter on the LCD had 1 bar left, the battery indicators still had 3 lights on and the voltage was reading 46.0v. Confirmed the same reading on my multimeter.
The voltage readout seemed to drop 2v per 10 miles on the ride.

 

[Nealh]

Your LCD setting will read lvc when it reaches 40v.
For your ride today individual cell discharge will have finished at approx. 3.53v.

 

[Neil5403]

So that is getting close to the min level I should be aware of. No lower than 44.2v ? 3.4v per cell.
Figured out the C12 @4 meaning.

 

[Nealh]

Yes, you have the gist of it now.

 

[Neil5403]

Bike going well and pleased with it but noticed that 2 of the spokes are broken already. They are just standard 2mm black spokes 242mm, from ebay. I think I need something stronger. The wheel is a Mavic A119 with eyelets. Are the Sapim strong a good choice and are they 'strong'. Will the wider 2.3 mm ends still fit in the eyelets ok? Or any other 'strong' ones recommended?

 

[Neil5403]

Sapim Strong spokes fitted today. Just need to get it trued and dished again tomw.
Hopefully this is a good solid wheel now.

 

[Neil5403]

All fitted. After a couple of 30mile rides, all spokes still intact. You get what you pay for!
When the rear wheel is off load and I spin it by hand, it only does 2 revolutions before stopping.
I tried the same with my Carrera-E and it spins for a lot longer.
Is it the motor type and is that normal for the Q128C motor?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It should spin freely. Sometimes hub-motors have some initial friction from the seals and grease that eases with time.

There's a couple of things to check: There should be a clear difference between forwards and backwards otherwise the clutch is stuck. Secondly, check that the resistance isn't coming from the brake or mudguard. Make sure the disc isctouching the frame or the edge of the caliper adaptor.You normally need an extra washer on the axle on the disc side to get the disc to line up correctly with the caliper.

 

[Neil5403]

I know that the brake disc does catch slightly, but not enough to affect it, so I remove the calliper to test it. The Q128C wheel spins 3 revolutions forward and 2 backwards ( with chain removed)
Compared to the Carrera that spins 10-12 revolutions !

Q128C Hub

Carrera-E Hub.

 

[Neil5403]

Well I think I have sorted it.
I took the wheel off and noted that the centre spindle/axle was very stiff to turn by hand. I removed the brake disc and the 3 Phillips screws on the other side and squirted WD40 in all the holes.
I don't know if it was the right thing to do for the longevity of the motor, but it worked and the spindle then turned with a lot less friction.
Put it all back together, put it on the bike and it now spins as per the Carrera and presumably the way that it should.
As stated above, it may have been packed with too much grease from the factory or not enough !
Now that it is working as it should, do they require any lubrication etc as per general maintenance in the future ?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I'm wondering about your brake disc screws. Which ones did you use? You have to use the special short ones, which are normally 6mm or 8mm long. The typical bike ones are too long, and will touch the stator inside, which would give the symptoms you had, or, worst still, jam the motor, depending on their length.

Luckily, WD40 squirted in the disc side shouldn't affect the gears and clutch unless you filled it up.