Nearly there now.

[Neil5403]

As I am on the home run of my e-bike build I thought I would start a thread with the final touches and setting etc.
Everything is together now with 48V 201rpm Q128C motor and 17A Controller and 48V 14.5AH down tube battery.
The below are my LCD3 settings. Do I need to alter anything from default?
P1- 87
P2-1
P3-1
P4-0
P5-12

C1-2
C2-0
C3-8
C4-0
C5-10
C6-3
C7-0
C8-0
C9-0
C10-n
C11-0
C12-4
C13-0
C14-2

The thing I am having trouble with at the moment is the PAS sensor. It doesn't do anything when pedal are spun. Could it be any of the above settings that need altering?

 

[Neil5403]

I think the PAS sensor is duff, as I put my original one on that came with the kit ( doesn't fit ) and worked ok. Is there a way to test the sensor off the bike before I return it?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

C1 =2 is lowest sensitivity for a normal 5, 8 or 10 magnet sensor. If you have the S-V12 type sensor C1 has to be 5, 6 or 7, 7 being the least sensitive. I doubt that there's anything wrong with your sensor, so don't send it back.

 

[harrys]

If you would like throttle enabled with PAS set at 0, I believe C4=3 will allow that. One risk with that is the bike will take off on you if you move the throttle while walking it around after power up.

 

[awol]

The thing I am having trouble with at the moment is the PAS sensor. It doesn't do anything when pedal are spun.

Even if you spin the pedals backwards?

 

[Nealh]

Try P1 as it is but if you find the speed read out is high and rear motor pickup/timing a bit intermittent under PAS then try 212 or 224.
C1 PAS as said 5 - 7 for V12 one or 00 - 02 for other type.
C6 is backlight 1 dim 3 bright.
C8 is motor temp,if you want to see it use setting 1 and in use press the off button quickly to toggle thru lcd screen options.
C14 is PAS sensitivity 1 weak 2 med 3 strong.

 

[Neil5403]

C1 =2 is lowest sensitivity for a normal 5, 8 or 10 magnet sensor. If you have the S-V12 type sensor C1 has to be 5, 6 or 7, 7 being the least sensitive. I doubt that there's anything wrong with your sensor, so don't send it back.

I have the following sensor fitted which does not respond. Have tried all directions and reversals etc. Do you think altering any settings will help or is it duff.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pedelec-Sensor-PAS-Pedal-Assistant-Sensor-for-Electric-Bicycle-8-Magnet/152830429673?hash=item23956749e9:g:50kAAOSwSrNaNN6c

 

[Nealh]

Check the wiring sequence matches, you may have to switch wiring. It has to be Gnd to Gnd, 5v to 5v & Sig to Sig, irrelevant of wire colour.
Try it on C1 settings 00, 01 & 02 with C14 on 3.

There are 8 permutations for the sensor/disc on each side of the bike.
Disc CW (Clockwie) & Anti C/W, rotate disc 180 degrees and same again.
Invert sensor and then do as before with disc.
You can test the sensor/disc with out fitting by simply connecting the sensor and then pass the disc by the sensor, have the bike in a stand though.

 

[Neil5403]

Think it is all sorted now. The yellow and black wires on the new sensor were reversed. Removed the heat shrink to find the problem. I assume it was a fault in manufacture as can’t see why they would not all be universal.
Not tried it on a ride yet but at least it now engages the motor up to 15mph when the pedals are turned on a bike stand. Thought it might go quicker than that but will look at that when I get to test it properly.

 

[Nealh]

For more speed adjust the LCD speeds 32 - 42 km/h is plenty if no joy and still 25km/h disconnect the white speed limit wire form the controller you should get well over 20 mph.

No Chines wiring is universal some controllers have just 2 or 3 colours for every thing and not always colours you would expect to see.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

There's no standard for pedal sensor connectors. you always have to check unless you bought a complete kit, like the Yosepower one or Dillenger, etc.

 

[Neil5403]

Thumb throttle came today. Bare wires on the end and no connector. Just pushed the contacts together as I only want it for testing. Will try and get a connector at a later date. Even with that fully open it is still maxing out at 15.2mph . 14.3mph with white wires together and 15.52 when pulled apart. I must have something set wrong to only get that speed !!
Max speed is set to 50kph

 

[awol]

Even with that fully open it is still maxing out at 15.2mph . 14.3mph with white wires together and 15.52 when pulled apart. I must have something set wrong to only get that speed !!

Assuming you have checked the speed cutoff setting is higher than 25kph it might be setting P1 as @Nealh mentions above. Also check the speedo displayed against a gps mobile speed app to help with setting P1

 

[Neil5403]

Speed cutoff is set to 50kph.
Tried P1 at 212 and 224 and it increased the displayed speed to 21mph.
This is only on a bike stand so will need to finish putting it together and try it on the road. with GPS to test speed.
I was just expecting 30+ mph on the bike stand..

 

[awol]

Also, it's a 48v 201rpm motor running at 48v, so it might be getting near it's max rpm.

 

[Neil5403]

I am happy with 20mph. Will give it a go tomw and see how it performs. P1 is now at 224.

 

[Neil5403]

Took the bike for it maiden electric voyage today.
Did 24.5 miles, all pedal assist at various levels. Didn't feel much quicker than my Carrera-E but it was as I got 19 personnel bests on Strava !
With P1 set to 87 it had a limit of 15mph ( possibly set at that for uk market) changed it to 212 and that seemed about right at the speed was accurate together with distance travelled on my GPS. Also the speed allowed up to around 20mph which is plenty for me.
At the end of the ride I had 2 segments of battery on the display and 3 lights on the battery and the voltage readout was 47.7v. I don't know what % of the battery I had used, but I would like to think that 30+ miles is achievable, as I am no lightweight and the bike does need a service on gears and brakes as the rear disc is catching slightly.
Pleased with the look of the bike, it just needs some final touches now to finish it off.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You won't see much difference from your Carrera on the lower levels, but there should be a very noticeable difference on level 5.

 

[Neil5403]

I didn't use PAS 5 much. I will try not out on the next trip.
What voltage will it drop down to before it stops working? I know the battery status indicators are not accurate. Is the voltage readout a good indicator?
Is P1 at 212 a suitable setting to leave it on? The numbers mean nothing to me. I take it they are recommended somewhere !

 

[anotherkiwi]

I didn't use PAS 5 much. I will try not out on the next trip.
What voltage will it drop down to before it stops working? I know the battery status indicators are not accurate. Is the voltage readout a good indicator?
Is P1 at 212 a suitable setting to leave it on? The numbers mean nothing to me. I take it they are recommended somewhere !

On my bike the LCD voltage readout is spot on and identical to my Wattmeter and my multimeter. Depending on the BMS and the controller settings between 30 and 33v are the usual LVC numbers.

P1 is the motor gear reduction ratio × number of rotor magnets (usually 16 magnets). I mucked about calculating mine for the GSM and it is running more quiet. The Mxus I left the factory setting.