Nearly there but wiring problem

[High Rider]

I have had several kits over the years:
Heinzman front hub on an old Dawes Streetwise. This would get me to the top of the Malverns no problem but I managed to burn the motor out! Next up was a nano conversion on my Brompton. I had problems with teh copper strip contacts on the front block breaking so added extra cable and put the battery in a bag onteh rear rack. This is still going strong. Then in the early noughties I bought an Airnimal with a bespoke 8Fun rear motor designed and fitted by Andy's Cycles in Kidderminster (now sadly closed down). This has been really great and took it on the train from Edinburgh to the Pyrenees where it performed brilliantly. This also died a death last year and so I am busy refitting it with bits I bought on line: 36V250W Q100 motor and S-KU65 controller from BSM Battery plus a Yose power li-ion battery. I re-used the old rim and used the sapim web site to calculate the spoke lengths - bang on (the Sheldon Brown calculator gave me 6mm error as I checked against the old ones). It took me several days to build the wheel but very satisfying. This included the use of cereal bowls and tumblers for the dishing and my guitar tuner to check the spoke tension!
Everything is now on the bike, together with sorting out a plate for mounting the controller that would protect it when the bike is folded. Now all I have to do is work out which wires to connect up to the exisitng pedal sensor as they don't match! I have black, yellow and brown from the controller but black, green and red from the original PAS. Can anyone help. I don't want to blow up the controller? Is there anything Ican check with a multimeter?

 

[anotherkiwi]

I think that you have the right order.

 

[Nealh]

You won't damage the controller if connected wrongly just pas won't work.
As KW say's wire sequence looks good.
Black = Gnd, Yellow = Signal & Brown is +5v.
Black = Gnd, Green = Signal & Red is +5v.

 

[High Rider]

You won't damage the controller if connected wrongly just pas won't work.
As KW say's wire sequence looks good.
Black = Gnd, Yellow = Signal & Brown is +5v.
Black = Gnd, Green = Signal & Red is +5v.

After a lot more searching I found an identical controller on a different website which said that the yellow was live and brown was signal. Connected up and nothing. I also tried the other combination with black as ground in both cases. Can the pedal sensor itself be the problem? It seems to match the system I have with 5 magnets. I've tried disconnecting the throttle but the PA still doesn't work. I'd really like to have the option of pedal assist as it means I can use bar ends - the flat bars I have make my elbows hurt on longish rides.

 

[Nealh]

The pas sensor could be handed wire it up and try peddling backwards to see if it works, if so try rotating the sensor 180 degrees to see if it works normally or fit the pas to the opposite crank.
The wiring colours were taken form my KT controller so I guess they are not using a std colour matching. Unplugging the throttle is a good idea as it reduces any conflict if the wring sequence isn't correct.

 

[anotherkiwi]

I agree with Nealh try turning the pedals the other way. If that is the problem you can also turn the magnet disk around keeping it on the same side.

Are you using an LCD? If so the C1 parameter in advanced setup should be set to 00 for your PAS which looks to be a Kunteng Forward 5 Signal.

The manual is in the resources section.

 

[jhruk]

Just a small point but the LCD3 manual in the resources section is now out of date. Although not much seems to have changed the C1 settings table for the PAS has been extended to include some extra settings (Old page 26, new 23/24). The revised manual can be downloaded from BMSB here.

I noticed this when trying to set-up the BMSB supplied KT-V12 sensor as it requires a setting not listed in the original manual. I’ve been using this sensor for over six months now and can recommend it if it fits your bike. It’s fully enclosed and much neater than the usual ones so should be less prone to damage.

Sorry, just noticed that the OP is using a a KU-65, so wont have an LCD3. It may be of use to others that do though.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Brown is 5v, yellow is signal and black is ground. The wiring instruction from BMSB is incorrect. I must have dealt with 100 controllers on which the 5v is always on the outside of the three wires on the PAS connector, the other two can be either way round.

If you look at the downloadable wiring diagram for the S06S, you'll see it explained correctly.

You can damage the controller by connecting the wires in the wrong sequence. You can short the 5v to ground, which can blow the 5v regulator, so don't experiment with different combinations. If your throttle still works, the 5v regulator is OK and no damage has been done.

Some pedal sensors are not compatible with some controllers, so you should always buy a pedal sensor with the controller to be sure. The standard $1 Chinese 5 magnet ones are usually OK, but 5 magnets doesn't mean that it's one of them. Some pedal sensors have alternatively oriented magnets, some have them tangentially oriented and some have them oriented axially in the same direction. Each type produces a different type of signal.

You should always test a pedal sensor before fitting it to the bike so that you know which side, which direction it goes and which way up the magnet disc needs to be installed.

I put a KU65 on a Cyclamatic. The pedal sensor looked standard, so I left it in place, but it worked backwards with the new controller, so I had to flip the magnet disc, then it was OK.

Connect the sensor the way I explained above, then turn the pedals forwards and backwards to see if it works. If it doesn't, then you probably need a new one.