My rear hub wheel popped out the forks.

[quackstar84]

Hello it's been a while. So I changed my disk brake and put the wheel back together however as soon as I left my house the rear hub popped out. Luckily my torque arm saved the day. I just want to confirm it happened because I didn't use a washer. Here's the photos.

 

[quackstar84]

This is the other side.

 

[quackstar84]

This is where I was missing the washer. I just screwed the nut to this fork. You can see the marks the nut made. I also used threadlocker this time.

Thanks. Hope the photos display the usefulness of torque arms

 

[saneagle]

This is where I was missing the washer. I just screwed the nut to this fork. You can see the marks the nut made. I also used threadlocker this time.

Thanks. Hope the photos display the usefulness of torque arms

I think I can see the problem, and it's quite a common one. Both your derailleur hanger and the frame on the other side have a slight recess for some reason (not logical). Your nut didn't fit in the recess, so it was only gripping on the edge of it, so it couldn't get enough friction to hold the axle still. Also, the limited touching surface area increased the pressure to distort the metal enough to make the nut loose.

It's very bimportant to make sure that you have a good flat area on which the first object on the axle outside the drop-out completely fits within. It often requires the fitting of a narrow 12mm washer that's 20mm diameter instead of the standard 24mm, whenever you have a recess.

Your hanger is knackered and needs replacing before you continue and your other drop-out doesn't look too x-fantastic. It might be time to get a new frame. As a minimum, you should use two properly anchored torque arms. Run a tiebar from the curved axle nit to the caliper mount to get a much more rigid solution. It's not so easy on the other side because theres's nothing to tie it to.

 

[quackstar84]

Thanks for your reply.

The anti rotation washers have never been able to fit fully in due to limited fork depth. I've managed 1000 miles on it nicely . So a washer would have helped but it's still far from ideal. Yeah it's time to get a new frame. I'm.6"1 though so I might just sell the kit because it's an 26" and the frame has always been too small for me, even a 26" large one.

Thank you for explaining saneagle.

I think I can see the problem, and it's quite a common one. Both your derailleur hanger and the frame on the other side have a slight recess for some reason (not logical). Your nut didn't fit in the recess, so it was only gripping on the edge of it, so it couldn't get enough friction to hold the axle still. Also, the limited touching surface area increased the pressure to distort the metal enough to make the nut loose.

It's very bimportant to make sure that you have a good flat area on which the first object on the axle outside the drop-out completely fits within. It often requires the fitting of a narrow 12mm washer that's 20mm diameter instead of the standard 24mm, whenever you have a recess.

Your hanger is knackered and needs replacing before you continue and your other drop-out doesn't look too x-fantastic. It might be time to get a new frame. As a minimum, you should use two properly anchored torque arms. Run a tiebar from the curved axle nit to the caliper mount to get a much more rigid solution. It's not so easy on the other side because theres's nothing to tie it to.

 

[Wayners]

If you want to repair then fit a washer to pack the ridge. Sand washer to create a key.
Set in with bolt resin. Smallest one is about £7.
You only need a small amount I know but will hold. The stuff is so hard and sticks like metal weld.
Maybe better to get another frame, but if you are like me and want to try a fix then that will be your best option.

 

[Waspy]

Set in with bolt resin. Smallest one is about £7.

I don't understand this sentence. What is bolt resin? Do you have any links?

 

[quackstar84]

If you want to repair then fit a washer to pack the ridge. Sand washer to create a key.
Set in with bolt resin. Smallest one is about £7.
You only need a small amount I know but will hold. The stuff is so hard and sticks like metal weld.
Maybe better to get another frame, but if you are like me and want to try a fix then that will be your best option.

Yeah I would prefer to fix it because I've replaced the disc brakes and pads. . But I'm not that clued up for making such a repair.

 

[Wayners]

Not difficult.
Stuff self mixes in nozzle.
Remove nozzle and bin when done the put the cap back on mastic tube.
Blob a bit on frame fixing.
Push washer on and wait 3 hours.
It's as easy as using toothpaste or something. No skill.
Stuff dries like steel weld.
I've fixed loads of things with it.

I don't understand this sentence. What is bolt resin? Do you have any links?

Easyfix Styrene-Free Polyester Resin 175ml - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Styrene-free, low odour resin suitable for overhead applications, confined spaces, solid and hollow substrates. Can be used with standard mastic gun. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

It's really ment for fixing bolt threaded bar in masonry.
Gates.Decking.Carports ect.
Sticks to metal like weld.
I used recently on galvanized hand rail that was rattling in fixing. Could not tighten grub screw anymore. Solid now.

Styrene free means less smell I think. Other stuff stinks

 

[Waspy]

Not difficult.
Stuff self mixes in nozzle.
Remove nozzle and bin when done the put the cap back on mastic tube.
Blob a bit on frame fixing.
Push washer on and wait 3 hours.
It's as easy as using toothpaste or something. No skill.
Stuff dries like steel weld.
I've fixed loads of things with it.

etc..........

Thanks Wayners!