I think a single bend is the limit of my fabricating ability! It actually feels pretty stiff and secure, and weighs next to nothing. If the double-sided foam tape fails with age, the sensor would still be retained by its cable.
My BBS01 conversion
- Thread starter Sylvester
- Start date
I don't think mine that came with the kit do - they have a plunger which is physically pressed by the brake lever which makes me think they are purely a microswitch rather than being a hall or reed sensor.
Michael
Now that I look at the levers in the kit, mine are like that too. But I'm sure they could be used, by mounting the sensor in a bracket attached to the brake master cylinder and having the plunger push against a bracket attached to the brake lever. Wish I'd done that before spending dosh on the magnetic ones.
I unscrewed one of these levers sometime ago, can't find the damned thing whe you need it. The plunger moves a tiny magnet, about 3mm in diameter, against the body of the sensor. The sensor itself is a tiny Hall, if you rotate it 180 degrees, it changes the active signal from high to low. the BBS01 controller expects to see active high if I remember correctly.
Can I mount the wheel speed sensor back-to-front? Clearances are better this way round, and it uses up some of the excess cable length.
Tony (and others), can you please explain to me how to connect the motor to the battery? The male pin on the blue (battery) wire is smaller than the socket on the black (motor) wire. You've supplied an extra (small size) connector and some heatshrink but I'm not sure how to proceed. Thanks!
your colours are correct but don't connect the wires, the connectors are mismatched.
You need to replace the connectors on the BBS01 side with matching crimps (3.9mm Japanese bullet connectors). Crimp the male to the red wire, the female to the black wire.
You can solder the connectors but it's best to crimp with a crimping tool like this one:
You need to replace the connectors on the BBS01 side with matching crimps (3.9mm Japanese bullet connectors). Crimp the male to the red wire, the female to the black wire.
You can solder the connectors but it's best to crimp with a crimping tool like this one:
When I "fired up" the bike for the first time the speed sensor wasn't working. After a lot of dicking about and and email correspondence with Tony at Woosh it became clear that the problem wasn't the speed sensor but the brake sensors (see earlier posts in this thread). So I removed the hydraulic-type sensors and replaced them with the sensors that came with the levers supplied with the BBS01 kit. This involved hacksawing the supplied brake levers so that the sensors could be removed, and modifying my home-made mounting brackets:
So now everything works! Some of the wiring is rather untidy because the cables are mostly too long, and I'm far from being competent to shorten them, except maybe the power cables connecting the battery to the motor. I don't know why the hydraulic-type sensors didn't work - has anyone else had a similar problem?
I haven't been for a proper ride yet - tomorrow, hopefully.
So now everything works! Some of the wiring is rather untidy because the cables are mostly too long, and I'm far from being competent to shorten them, except maybe the power cables connecting the battery to the motor. I don't know why the hydraulic-type sensors didn't work - has anyone else had a similar problem?
I haven't been for a proper ride yet - tomorrow, hopefully.
Hello Sylvester,
Your motor works now with peddle assist but from your picture the brake cut off set up will not cut the motor. The yellow plunger needs to be depressed when actuating the lever so that the sensor senses the magnet. From what I see as it is now the plunger is fully extended so pulling the lever will not do anything more for it.
Your motor works now with peddle assist but from your picture the brake cut off set up will not cut the motor. The yellow plunger needs to be depressed when actuating the lever so that the sensor senses the magnet. From what I see as it is now the plunger is fully extended so pulling the lever will not do anything more for it.
Sylvester, I've had a very similar problem. My BBS01 doesn't cut out with the brake levers when I turn the cranks, but it does stop the speed sensor working whilst I pull the brake levers. I'm using the hydraulic sensors as well. I tried the original levers though and they didn't solve the problem of the motor not cutting out. Glad Woosh sorted you out.
In the picture the yellow plunger is part way out, and the motor runs happily. Pulling on the brake lever a small amount allows the plunger to extend a bit further, which cuts the motor. I've set up the levers so that the power is cut before the brakes are generating any friction. I've got the bike up on a workstand so that I can play about with everything, and it all works fine.
Your original set up with hydraulic brake sensor didn't work because the sensor was already sensing the magnet so the switching was in place. You have it back to front as you brake the magnet has to be moved to the sensor to cut power, the same applies to the second effort the magnet inside the wired housing is held off the sensor by a small spring.
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