Mxus xf08c Hall sensors

[Cobblers66]

OK so my hall sensors weren't working on this motor due to a damaged motors cable.

I didn't have enough space to clear all the silicon and pull the cable through to re terminate it with the hall sensor pcb in situ. I de soldered the board ok but carelessly I managed to break a leg on one the halls. I knocked the leg and bent it but when I Straightened it up if broke off.

I manged to cut out the damaged section of cable and re terminated the phase cables to the stator and for now I slid a bit of heat shrink over the hall cables and tucked them out of the way.

Do you know if I'll be able to get hold a new pcb with the hall sensors attached or should I buy loose hall sensors and then use my existing pcb.

Also for installing the hall sensors do you remove the stator completely and glue them in?

 

[Sturmey]

OK so my hall sensors weren't working on this motor due to a damaged motors cable.

I didn't have enough space to clear all the silicon and pull the cable through to re terminate it with the hall sensor pcb in situ. I de soldered the board ok but carelessly I managed to break a leg on one the halls. I knocked the leg and bent it but when I Straightened it up if broke off.

I manged to cut out the damaged section of cable and re terminated the phase cables to the stator and for now I slid a bit of heat shrink over the hall cables and tucked them out of the way.

Do you know if I'll be able to get hold a new pcb with the hall sensors attached or should I buy loose hall sensors and then use my existing pcb.

Also for installing the hall sensors do you remove the stator completely and glue them in?

Video below from Justin of grin technologies on geared motor hall replacement might be helpful.

 

[vfr400]

Buy loose hall sensors. They cost nearly nothing. You'll struggle to find that exact hall sensor board as a spare part. You can use any bi-polar sensors, but there is a caveat. The sensors come in different versions. Some have internal regulators and some have integrated pull-up resistors. SS41 is the recommended type, and they normally work with normal controllers, but yours might have an internal pull-up resistor. It's best to read the designation on yours and buy a direct equivalent. They're all available on Ebay.

 

[Cobblers66]

Buy loose hall sensors. They cost nearly nothing. You'll struggle to find that exact hall sensor board as a spare part. You can use any bi-polar sensors, but there is a caveat. The sensors come in different versions. Some have internal regulators and some have integrated pull-up resistors. SS41 is the recommended type, and they normally work with normal controllers, but yours might have an internal pull-up resistor. It's best to read the designation on yours and buy a direct equivalent. They're all available on Ebay.

OK thanks its all back together for now but I'll strip it down and try and dig them out next weekend. What sort of glue do people use. Will any high temp epoxy work OK? On the video I watched he used wax paper to stop the epoxy getting on the magnets is there any other material that I might have lying around the house?

 

[vfr400]

You only need the tiniest amount of epoxy to hold the halls still, so none should get anywhere else. the glue is only to stop them from moving, not to fix them in.

 

[Cobblers66]

You only need the tiniest amount of epoxy to hold the halls still, so none should get anywhere else. the glue is only to stop them from moving, not to fix them in.

OK so I stripped the motor again.

The only way I could get the hall sensors out was by removing the stator from the casing.

The old hall sensors were in really tight. I couldn't make out the markings on the originals so I just bought a few ss41 hall sensors off ebay.

All fitted and back together they work fine. The e07 error is cleared from the display and the motor runs so much better and quieter. It doesn't bog down and cut out under a heavy load like it was doing sensorless and I'm very pleased with it. Thanks for the advise.

I'm trying now to set up the lcd to get a speed signal from the internal speed sensor as it the moment the speedo only works while the motor is running.

It's a s866 display but Im not sure on the parameter I need to adjust to get it to work correctly.

 

[Cobblers66]

OK so I stripped the motor again.

The only way I could get the hall sensors out was by removing the stator from the casing.

The old hall sensors were in really tight. I couldn't make out the markings on the originals so I just bought a few ss41 hall sensors off ebay.

All fitted and back together they work fine. The e07 error is cleared from the display and the motor runs so much better and quieter. It doesn't bog down and cut out under a heavy load like it was doing sensorless and I'm very pleased with it. Thanks for the advise.

I'm trying now to set up the lcd to get a speed signal from the internal speed sensor as it the moment the speedo only works while the motor is running.

It's a s866 display but Im not sure on the parameter I need to adjust to get it to work correctly.

Here is a list of parameters that can be adjusted with my display. Any ideas?


P01: Backlight brightness, level 1 darkest, level 3 brightest;
P02: mileage unit, 0: KM; 1: MILE;
P03: Voltage level: 24V, 36V, 48V, 60V, 64V default 36V;
P04: Dormancy time: 0, not dormancy; Other numbers are dormancy times, range: 1-60; Unit minutes;
P05: Help file bit: 0, 3 file mode:
1,5 gear mode:
P06: Wheel diameter: unit, inch; Precision: 0.1;
This parameter is related to the meter display speed and needs to be entered correctly;
P07: Speed gauge magnetic steel number: range: 1-100;
This parameter is related to the meter display speed and needs to be entered correctly;
If it is an ordinary hub motor, direct input of magnetic steel;
If it is a high-speed motor, it is also necessary to calculate the deceleration ratio, and the input data = the number of magnetic steel × deceleration ratio;
For example: number of motor magnets 20, deceleration ratio 4.3: input data is: 86 = 20 × 4.3
P08: Speed limit: range 0-100km / H, 100 means no speed limit,
The input data here represents the maximum operating speed of the vehicle: for example, input 25, indicating that the maximum operating speed of the vehicle will not exceed 25km/h; Drive speed maintained at set value,
Error: ± 1km/h; (Speed limit for power and steering)
Note: The value here is based on kilometers. When the unit setting is converted from kilometers to miles, the speed value of the display interface automatically converts to the correct mile value, but the speed limit value set at this menu under the mile interface is not converted. Is inconsistent with the actual speed limit of the mile speed;
Note: P09-P15 menu is only valid in communication state
P09: zero start, non-zero start setting, 0: zero start; 1: Non-zero start;
P10: The drive mode is set to 0: Power Drive(how much power is output is determined by the power file bit, and the switch is invalid).
1: Electric drive(by turning the handle drive, when the power file bit is invalid).
2: Power Drive and Electric Drive Coexistence
P11: Help sensitivity setting range: 1-24;
P12: Help start intensity setting range: 0-5;
P13: Power Magnetic Steel Disk Type Setting 5, 8, 12 Magnetic Steel Types
P14: Controller limit value set default 12A range: 1-20A
P15: Controller undervoltage
P16: ODO zero setting length press key 5 seconds ODO zero
P17 :0: No enabling cruising, 1: enabling cruising; Automatic cruise optional(valid for protocol 2 only)
P18: Display speed ratio adjustment range: 50 % ~ 150 %,
P19: 0 power bit, 0: 0, 1: does not include 0
P20 :0:2 Protocol 1:5 S Protocol 2: Standby 3: Standby

 

[vfr400]

It's P07, which should be 1 or 6 depending on how many magnets are in the moroe. I think it's only Bafang that use 6, so probably 1. You'll see on the speed display if you got it right because, you get a factor of 6 difference in speed displayed. Check that the white wire is actually pulsing when the hub turns. It's quite common to have problems with the speed sensor. Normally, the magnet falls off, so you have to glue it back on again, but as your other hall sensors failed, maybe the speed one has gone too. Rather than take it all apart again, you can use a normal wheel magnet type sensor. either buy a proprietary one or cut one off a cheap or old cycle computer. If you use one of those, one wire goes to the white and the other goes to normally any 5v, but sometimes ground. It depends whether the white wire from the controller has 5v on it or 0v when switched on. No harm will come if you get it the wrong way round. It just won't work. If the white wire is 0v, the other goes to 5v and vice versa.

 

[Cobblers66]

It's P07, which should be 1 or 6 depending on how many magnets are in the moroe. I think it's only Bafang that use 6, so probably 1. You'll see on the speed display if you got it right because, you get a factor of 6 difference in speed displayed. Check that the white wire is actually pulsing when the hub turns. It's quite common to have problems with the speed sensor. Normally, the magnet falls off, so you have to glue it back on again, but as your other hall sensors failed, maybe the speed one has gone too. Rather than take it all apart again, you can use a normal wheel magnet type sensor. either buy a proprietary one or cut one off a cheap or old cycle computer. If you use one of those, one wire goes to the white and the other goes to normally any 5v, but sometimes ground. It depends whether the white wire from the controller has 5v on it or 0v when switched on. No harm will come if you get it the wrong way round. It just won't work. If the white wire is 0v, the other goes to 5v and vice versa.

OK thanks. I did try setting p07 to 1 but it just maxes out the speedo. I get the most accurate speed reading with it set to 96, it's pretty accurate then compared to GPS.

It still doesn't read though when the motor is off. I just wondered if it is ignoring the speed signal from the white and calculating the speed another way?

I've got another bike with the same controller but running a different Lcd. I had to fit a external speed sensor on that one as the hub doesn't have a white hall wire. On that Lcd I had to change a parameter from 0 to 1 to make it take a speed reading from the external sensor instead of the motor.

 

[vfr400]

OK thanks. I did try setting p07 to 1 but it just maxes out the speedo. I get the most accurate speed reading with it set to 96, it's pretty accurate then compared to GPS.

When it doesn't get a pulse from the speed sensor, it defaults to using the motor halls for a speed signal or maybe it uses the back emf pulses, as it can run sensorless so already has a way of using them for timing. Either way, your problem is that it's not using the speed sensor.