Motor run on BSB01

[saneagle]

Success! With https://devnotes.kymatica.com/BafangWebConfig/BafangWebCfg.html


Yes - it read my old parameters and I saved them to disk for future recovery if needed.

Then I tried editing and saving. I found the 'Write All' at the top of the web page was refused consistently, but the write command for individual sections worked for most parameters I tried to change.

I was careful and edited ONLY the things I needed to change and think I understand.

I changed Keep Current to a conservative 60. It had been 20. Guerney had said this was an improving feature to increase, but I think from memory, he had said 100 was good, but being hyper cautious, I went with 60.

I also changed the MAX current value from 15 to 18 amps. The MAX current on that controller is 20 amps

Those two changes mean that on pedal assist (no throttle) the bike's maximum power displayed on the screen has gone from 250 watts to about 400. I can't give an exact figure because it fluctuates and to be honest it is tricky to read for any length of time when riding. I don't want to end up in a hedge or more likely around here, over a stone wall.

I tried to edit the max speed of the throttle to 6kph. It was set at an optimistic 40kph!!
The page let me enter 6kph, but the controller kept rejecting it. I entered it as 06 in case it wanted two digits. No different. It was rejected each time. I could try editing the throttle current to a low value, but I suspect the deep levels of firmware may reject that too.

To be honest, leaving the throttle disconnected is no deal breaker. I don't really need throttle. It is currently disconnected at the julet connectors and taped up. I would quite like the feature if I could sort the editing, but I think Guerney said earlier in another thread that he could not edit the throttle speed. If I am in a sensible gear, I can without fail pedal the bike and set on high PAS, it takes off like a fine young horse.

Weird that the SPEED app would not connect and this simple web page application does.

Happy camper here. I doubt I need to alter anything else. I might try and reduce MAX amps to see if it was that or the Keep Current that made the difference to pedal assist power, but suspect it isn't. I don't want to hammer the controller mosfets or the battery, so it could be that later I go back to 15 amps max.

I reckon, giving the slight risk of bricking the controller, it is best not to meddle too often. I have a bike now which is legal in performance, cutting off at just over 15 miles an hour and, it will give me sufficient power to climb steep hills without too much trouble. I am not that heavy - 174 pounds and I am not unfit for an old git. I don't really need a throttle. It is not a motor bike, and I always pedal when riding.

Keep current works best at 100. You can always select a reduced pedal assist level if you want to use less current.

 

[Ghost1951]

Keep current works best at 100. You can always select a reduced pedal assist level if you want to use less current.

Thanks for that tip.

I wonder why it was set at 20? Pretty weird.
I'm chuffed that with Guerney's help I got into the controller.


What exactly is Keep Current?

 

[saneagle]

Thanks for that tip.

I wonder why it was set at 20? Pretty weird.
I'm chuffed that with Guerney's help I got into the controller.


What exactly is Keep Current?

When you start pedalling, the algorithms ramp up the power according to various parameters until it reaches the maximum for that level. After a short time, it ramps it back down to the keep current. I'm sure somebody can figure out a use for it in some weird circumstances, but I can't.

 

[Ghost1951]

Update on Programming the Bafang BBS01:

I went into the settings again and set Keep Current to 100%.

I also set speed at all PAS speed levels to 100% of the maximum allowed from the screen (which is 15 miles an hour). The PAS levels are set as percentages of the maximum current now.

I experimented with the throttle settings and found that contrary to what I had thought, I can change the maximum speeds, only not at all below 15kph, which is of course presently not a legal throttle, but at 9 miles an hour it is better than 25 mph, which is what it was before. Anything less than 15kph was rejected.

I have not connected the throttle though, because I was trying to make it more legal than it was before.

The bike now has much more usable power in PAS modes that used to be only available under throttle before the adjustments. Power when pedalling cuts off at or before 16 miles an hour on the display and assistance declines rapidly when I am pedalling fast. This is a cadence controlled system.

I like the way it performs better now, having taken it for a fifteen mile ride up some pretty mean hills. This photo was taken at 833 feet asl. I climbed 656 feet up in 2 kilometres - a steep drag very easily in PAS level 2 with the settings I mentioned. I was mostly using about 275 watts of the motor power to get up there, but I can see about 600 watts at times in higher PAS levels. The motor casing was only very slightly warm at the top of the climb.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Update on Programming the Bafang BBS01:

I went into the settings again and set Keep Current to 100%.

I also set speed at all PAS levels to 100% of the maximum allowed from the screen (which is 15 miles an hour). The speed levels are set as percentages of the maximum current now.

I experimented with the throttle settings and found that contrary to what I had thought, I can change the maximum speeds, only not at all below 15kph, which is of course presently not a legal throttle, but at 9 miles an hour it is better than 25 mph, which is what it was before.

I have not connected the throttle though, because I was trying to make it more legal than it was before.

The bike now has much more usable power in PAS modes that used to be only available under throttle before the adjustments. Power when pedalling cuts off at or before 16 miles an hour on the display and assistance declines rapidly when I am pedalling fast. This is a cadence controlled system.

I like the way it performs better now, having taken it for a fifteen mile ride up some pretty mean hills. This photo was taken at 833 feet asl. I climbed about 600 feet up a steep drag very easily in PAS level 2 with the settings I mentioned. I was mostly using about 275 watts of the motor power to get up there, but I can see about 600 watts at times in higher PAS levels. The motor casing was only very slightly warm at the top of the climb.

View attachment 58092

Solved !

DFT consultation on increase of 250W limit to 500W

There is strong consumer demand for more powerful ebikes, with throttles. And escooters too. Heck, they're already here, they're not going away and need to be legally integrated into the new active transport landscape. It's a frustratingly complex legislative problem, and it demands bold...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

 

[Ghost1951]

Solved !

DFT consultation on increase of 250W limit to 500W

There is strong consumer demand for more powerful ebikes, with throttles. And escooters too. Heck, they're already here, they're not going away and need to be legally integrated into the new active transport landscape. It's a frustratingly complex legislative problem, and it demands bold...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

Yes Peter, you were right in that post you linked to.

I expect all that power change stuff will be abandoned with the coming election. Pity - if what was being talked about was passed, I could plug in my throttle again - not that I need it. Others might benefit from that though. To be fair, this 250 watt motor does alright. If I can ride around these hilly places without sweat, and I now can after the 'tweaking', using more powerful motors would only benefit me by increasing the safety margin for the mosfets in the controller. Might make them last better if they were more beefy.

 

[guerney]

I'm chuffed that with Guerney's help I got into the controller.

Weird that the SPEED app would not connect and this simple web page application does.

That entire OS is built around the browser. The programming cable is essentially a hacking device, so no profile.

I like the way it performs better now, having taken it for a fifteen mile ride up some pretty mean hills. This photo was taken at 833 feet asl. I climbed 656 feet up in 2 kilometres - a steep drag very easily in PAS level 2 with the settings I mentioned.

Even easier with 20" wheels. Would a full suspension MTB with 20" wheels fit in a car boot? If so, I'm wondering which steel framed full suspension MTB with disc brakes has it's BB situated high up enough for the reduction in wheel size to not cause problems for the cranks arms, pedals; vertical suspension travel distance is also a consideration.

Here's a happy looking dude with one on ES. Trials bike with a higher BB:

https://endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/20-wheels-on-mtb-frame.31698/post-459015

If it breaks down, simply throw it into a private hire taxi boot? No need for an XL conveyance.

Looks a bit long. 16" wheels?

 

[Ghost1951]

I have a Brompton for carrying in the boot.

I am considering a conversion for that bike.