When I stop pedaling there is a slight run on from the motor. Probably only about an eigth of a turn at the crank but it is rather annoying. Is there any way to overcome this?
Motor run on BSB01
- Thread starter Garry Hallam
- Start date
Yes. Brake sensors.
www.pswpower.com
Electric Bike oil Hydraulic Brake Sensor or bafang wuxing brake Lever For BAFANG BBS01B BBS02B BBSHD Mid Drive Motor Power Cut Off Brake Sensor
Electric Bike oil Hydraulic Brake Sensor or bafang wuxing brake Lever For BAFANG BBS01B BBS02B BBSHD Mid Drive Motor Power Cut Off Brake Sensor
www.pswpower.com
I have the sensors connected to my mechanical brakes. I am talking about if you stop pedalling to coast along without applying brakesYes. Brake sensors.
Electric Bike oil Hydraulic Brake Sensor or bafang wuxing brake Lever For BAFANG BBS01B BBS02B BBSHD Mid Drive Motor Power Cut Off Brake Sensor
Electric Bike oil Hydraulic Brake Sensor or bafang wuxing brake Lever For BAFANG BBS01B BBS02B BBSHD Mid Drive Motor Power Cut Off Brake Sensor
The pedal sensor probably only has 8 or at most 12 magnets. It is going to have difficulty detecting exactly when the pedals stopped turning.
A torque sensor would react faster. An optical speed sensor could easily be much faster to respond, but it would be difficult to position so it didn't suffer from dirt.
A torque sensor would react faster. An optical speed sensor could easily be much faster to respond, but it would be difficult to position so it didn't suffer from dirt.
BBS01 has settings for that , check the 'time stop' & 'stop decay' values .
Time stop setting approx. not less then 10 & stop decay one will have to play with to find what works.
Time stop affects the drive stop once pedalling has ceased.
Stop decay affects how much time the system takes to cut after pedalling stops .
One though needs to down load the BBS programming software and buy a programming lead to enter in to the system .
Time stop setting approx. not less then 10 & stop decay one will have to play with to find what works.
Time stop affects the drive stop once pedalling has ceased.
Stop decay affects how much time the system takes to cut after pedalling stops .
One though needs to down load the BBS programming software and buy a programming lead to enter in to the system .
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The programming software can be down loaded from the internet or have a look on Endless sphere for it for free. The lead costs about £20 on ebay.
Guerney is your man nowadays who is in to the BBS01 , I gave up on it years ago.
Guerney is your man nowadays who is in to the BBS01 , I gave up on it years ago.
EDIT: This complaint of mine is solved now. Just needed different software.
When you do get the stuff together, I hope it works better than mine.
I bought a lead on ebay - looks ok with a clear shrink wrap over the circuitry that does the USB to ttl conversion, but the chrome book and the speed software don't connect. I get a fault report saying something like 'no device recognised' when I try to connect.
Guerney who has done a bit of this stuff with android devices (his phone) says it is the chrome book, but mine has always been faultless in connecting to external devices - cameras, memory sticks and such. I dont have a windows PC. If I get hold of a usb c to big old style usb connector, I can try with one of my android phones.
As it is, I am beginning to come down to the idea that the fault is in the ebay cable I bought. Cost just under a tenner and looks quite well made. Just doesn't work.
If anyone who has done this can make suggestions, I would be pretty glad to see them.
I wanted to programme my bbs01 to make it more compliant with the rules, specifically to write 25kph max speed into firmware so it could not be set at the display level, and I wanted to up the amps available at the high pas levels so I could do away with the throttle (which I have read can't be toned down - it always allows the bike to break the speed limits).
As it is I have disconnected the throttle at the connectors and taped them up. However, now because of the firmware settings, the bike will never use more than 250 watts even at max pas level. I can live with that, but for hill climbing it would be legal to set the highest pas setting to more current than its current settings allow. Under throttle the max power used to be about 600 watts (36v battery probably the controller is set to max amps 15 for throttle but more like 7 amps for PAS use.
Can't make the adjustment though without that usb to TTL connection being made.
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Thanks. I thought of that but the software for android does not have any way to put the user in charge of the com ports. There is no reference to com ports on the app. Pity. It is likely that this is the issue. I could scrounge a windows laptop and download software and drivers. I have heard that some different cables are not so well supported with drivers. It will depend on which chips they have used.
I also mentioned that the programming cables covered in clear heatshrink have a bad rep, and that's why I have only posted links to the black heatshrunk versions.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185892483146
They last ok if you don't tug the cable too hard when disconnecting - very thin and delicate wires. I applied self-adhesive 4:1 marine heat shrink over the round cable flex of my latest, hoping to extend it's lifespan.
I've used this a lot, worked great until I reinstalled Windows 7 - it was faster to simply install the Speeed app on my Android phone+tablet and connect via the OTG cable, than p*ss about with COM ports:
https://penoff.me/2016/01/13/e-bike-conversion-software/
Test read/write your OTG adapter with a thumb drive first. The thin cabled ones tend to only carry power to devices.
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Have you had a go with?:
https://devnotes.kymatica.com/BafangWebConfig/BafangWebCfg.html
https://support.google.com/chrome/answer/12576972
Here's a chap managing the feat using a Mac:
My cable is a black sheathed one - probably one that @guerney suggested - that uses a Robotdyn CH340G USB to TTL. It works fine with both Win10 and 11 on cheap Lenovo laptops, and my Android 'phone with the Speeed app from the play store using a short ebay USB-C to A adaptor lead.
I checked out the links you sent.
The settings in chrome are set to allow usb access from websites.
The bike is in my Gf's garage a couple of miles away in the next village, so I can't try to connect with the web page Bafang Web Config right now. I will go over there on a motorbike later and have a try.
This might be quite promising.
The cable looks fine in terms of no dry joints or obvious failed components. The only part I can't check out without a lot of messing about is the julet to TTL / USB connection, but if need be, I can test the Julet connector female plug, by inserting a small diameter wire into the tiny sockets and using the multi meter to test for continuity along the cable with TXD, RXD and GND on the TTL part of the board. At least I would know the wires were actually connected, though this would not answer the question of whether the wires were connected to the correct julet connector pins. The cable does not look like a cheap effort and the task involved is essentially very simple.
I am convinced that the Chromebook itself does not have flakey USB. Every usb periferal I have ever connected did so faultlessly. Hard drives, memory sticks, cameras and GPs boards worked immediately and without issues.
Thanks to Cyclebuddy too for his note about his experience.
Failing the route outlined above, I will buy an OTG connector and try to connect with my android phone and the speed app.
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@ Guerney
Just messing about with that web page configurator at https://devnotes.kymatica.com/BafangWebConfig/BafangWebCfg.html
This recognises my cable when I plug it in. When not plugged in, USB does not appear in the interfaces listed, but once plugged in, USB appears. It also says it has connected to it when I try to connect. This might work when I get to the bike later today. I will feedback later.
Just messing about with that web page configurator at https://devnotes.kymatica.com/BafangWebConfig/BafangWebCfg.html
This recognises my cable when I plug it in. When not plugged in, USB does not appear in the interfaces listed, but once plugged in, USB appears. It also says it has connected to it when I try to connect. This might work when I get to the bike later today. I will feedback later.
These settings for Stop Delay, Current Decay, and Stop Decay make for rapid reduction in power when you stop pedalling... but it's a two edged sword, because pedal assistance stops just as fast when you hit the speed limit, which can be a shock to old knees if pedal assistance is at a high level at the time. U-turns are easier, as are tricky offroad bits.
Parameter info:
https://edrivenet.com/bafang-programming/
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See if you can read parameter values first, change the parameters onscreen as required, then write, then read again to verify new parameter values have been written correctly. I've read somewhere making changes to too many parameters at once can cause problems, but so far I haven't found doing so causes issues.
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Success! With https://devnotes.kymatica.com/BafangWebConfig/BafangWebCfg.html
Yes - it read my old parameters and I saved them to disk for future recovery if needed.
Then I tried editing and saving. I found the 'Write All' at the top of the web page was refused consistently, but the write command for individual sections worked for most parameters I tried to change.
I was careful and edited ONLY the things I needed to change and think I understand.
I changed Keep Current to a conservative 60. It had been 20. Guerney had said this was an improving feature to increase, but I think from memory, he had said 100 was good, but being hyper cautious, I went with 60.
I also changed the MAX current value from 15 to 18 amps. The MAX current on that controller is 20 amps
Those two changes mean that on pedal assist (no throttle) the bike's maximum power displayed on the screen has gone from 250 watts to about 400. I can't give an exact figure because it fluctuates and to be honest it is tricky to read for any length of time when riding. I don't want to end up in a hedge or more likely around here, over a stone wall.
I tried to edit the max speed of the throttle to 6kph. It was set at an optimistic 40kph!!
The page let me enter 6kph, but the controller kept rejecting it. I entered it as 06 in case it wanted two digits. No different. It was rejected each time. I could try editing the throttle current to a low value, but I suspect the deep levels of firmware may reject that too.
To be honest, leaving the throttle disconnected is no deal breaker. I don't really need throttle. It is currently disconnected at the julet connectors and taped up. I would quite like the feature if I could sort the editing, but I think Guerney said earlier in another thread that he could not edit the throttle speed. If I am in a sensible gear, I can without fail pedal the bike and set on high PAS, it takes off like a fine young horse.
Weird that the SPEED app would not connect and this simple web page application does.
Happy camper here. I doubt I need to alter anything else. I might try and reduce MAX amps to see if it was that or the Keep Current that made the difference to pedal assist power, but suspect it isn't. I don't want to hammer the controller mosfets or the battery, so it could be that later I go back to 15 amps max.
I reckon, giving the slight risk of bricking the controller, it is best not to meddle too often. I have a bike now which is legal in performance, cutting off at just over 15 miles an hour and, it will give me sufficient power to climb steep hills without too much trouble. I am not that heavy - 174 pounds and I am not unfit for an old git. I don't really need a throttle. It is not a motor bike, and I always pedal when riding.
THANKS DUE TO Guerney for his assistance on this. EXCELLENT support from him.
Yes - it read my old parameters and I saved them to disk for future recovery if needed.
Then I tried editing and saving. I found the 'Write All' at the top of the web page was refused consistently, but the write command for individual sections worked for most parameters I tried to change.
I was careful and edited ONLY the things I needed to change and think I understand.
I changed Keep Current to a conservative 60. It had been 20. Guerney had said this was an improving feature to increase, but I think from memory, he had said 100 was good, but being hyper cautious, I went with 60.
I also changed the MAX current value from 15 to 18 amps. The MAX current on that controller is 20 amps
Those two changes mean that on pedal assist (no throttle) the bike's maximum power displayed on the screen has gone from 250 watts to about 400. I can't give an exact figure because it fluctuates and to be honest it is tricky to read for any length of time when riding. I don't want to end up in a hedge or more likely around here, over a stone wall.
I tried to edit the max speed of the throttle to 6kph. It was set at an optimistic 40kph!!
The page let me enter 6kph, but the controller kept rejecting it. I entered it as 06 in case it wanted two digits. No different. It was rejected each time. I could try editing the throttle current to a low value, but I suspect the deep levels of firmware may reject that too.
To be honest, leaving the throttle disconnected is no deal breaker. I don't really need throttle. It is currently disconnected at the julet connectors and taped up. I would quite like the feature if I could sort the editing, but I think Guerney said earlier in another thread that he could not edit the throttle speed. If I am in a sensible gear, I can without fail pedal the bike and set on high PAS, it takes off like a fine young horse.
Weird that the SPEED app would not connect and this simple web page application does.
Happy camper here. I doubt I need to alter anything else. I might try and reduce MAX amps to see if it was that or the Keep Current that made the difference to pedal assist power, but suspect it isn't. I don't want to hammer the controller mosfets or the battery, so it could be that later I go back to 15 amps max.
I reckon, giving the slight risk of bricking the controller, it is best not to meddle too often. I have a bike now which is legal in performance, cutting off at just over 15 miles an hour and, it will give me sufficient power to climb steep hills without too much trouble. I am not that heavy - 174 pounds and I am not unfit for an old git. I don't really need a throttle. It is not a motor bike, and I always pedal when riding.
THANKS DUE TO Guerney for his assistance on this. EXCELLENT support from him.
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