Help! Motor hall sensor fault

[Woosh]

Most controllers don't need the Hall sensors connected to work.
Leave them unplugged to see if the error goes away.

 

[orcecaveman]

Most controllers don't need the Hall sensors connected to work.
Leave them unplugged to see if the error goes away.

I tried that before. It made no difference

 

[Woosh]

then your problem is not in the Hall sensors but somewhere else.
Unplug next the phase wires. The controller should not show an error on power on self test.

 

[orcecaveman]

then your problem is not in the Hall sensors but somewhere else.
Unplug next the phase wires. The controller should not show an error on power on self test.

Should I be getting a direct short between all three of the phase wires?

 

[Woosh]

Should I be getting a direct short between all three of the phase wires?

yes, the three phase wires are connected together through the winding.
your Ohm meter cannot detect damage to the insulation of the copper. Only when the motor spins up, if the insulation is damaged, the controller will report it.

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/d6/58/ac/d658ac420f2abbf9e825f2afc6c5e192.jpg

 

[orcecaveman]

So, it's surely got to be a fault with the hall sensor wires inside the hub. Is it worth attempting to rewire it with a new cable?

 

[vfr400]

You test an measure to find your problems, then you can see how to solve them.

 

[Woosh]

So, it's surely got to be a fault with the hall sensor wires inside the hub. Is it worth attempting to rewire it with a new cable?

At the moment, all you have is a fault code.
you need to positively locate the fault first.
If for instance, the fault disappears if the motor cable is unplugged and reappears when the motor cable is put back then the conclusion the fault must be in the wheel.
Then you follow the same logic down to parts of the motor.
If the fault is not in the motor, apply the same method to anything that may interfere with the 5V supply.
When all else has been excluded, the controller and the bus cable must be the only remaining suspects.

 

[orcecaveman]

At the moment, all you have is a fault code.
you need to positively locate the fault first.
If for instance, the fault disappears if the motor cable is unplugged and reappears when the motor cable is put back then the conclusion the fault must be in the wheel.
Then you follow the same logic down to parts of the motor.
If the fault is not in the motor, apply the same method to anything that may interfere with the 5V supply.
When all else has been excluded, the controller and the bus cable must be the only remaining suspects.

Yeah, I hear what you're saying, but every thing is new now contoller, display, pas sensor... everything apart from the hub. I've tested the hall sensor wires from the plug end and they are showing up as faulty, and it's not the plug or terminals cause that's new too.

 

[Nealh]

Never assume we have had members who have had new controllers turn out to be faulty.

 

[Deleted member 25121]

Have you checked the voltages on the Hall sensors? There should be ground, +5v and a signal that pulses between 0v and 5V when the motor is rotated.

It's possible that the 5V supply was damaged because of the damaged insulation on the Hall sensor wires.

 

[orcecaveman]

Have you checked the voltages on the Hall sensors? There should be ground, +5v and a signal that pulses between 0v and 5V when the motor is rotated.

It's possible that the 5V supply was damaged because of the damaged insulation on the Hall sensor wires.

That's exactly what I suspect. I'm getting nothing from the hall sensors. So I suspect that the melted insulation that I repaired isnt the only damage. Maybe melted inside the axle. Hence my question about rewiring.

 

[Deleted member 25121]

That's exactly what I suspect. I'm getting nothing from the hall sensors. So I suspect that the melted insulation that I repaired isnt the only damage. Maybe melted inside the axle. Hence my question about rewiring.

If you unplug the motor from the connector can you measure 5V between the connector pins carrying 5V and 0V to the Hall sensors? If there's no 5V there then the 5V regulator inside the controller has been damaged.

 

[Bobbington]

You may remember my previous posts with the suspected pedal assist sensor and control unit.
Well, we have an update and I think, A : I've learned a lot (thanks to you guys, and B: I see light at the end of the tunnel.
It's still a mystery what happened to this bike before I had it, but it seems like there were several faults.
Anyway, I've fitted pretty much everything new except the motor, and guess what? My new display indicates 'info 3' which is 'Motor hall signal abnormality'.
So, my question is... is this likely to be a new hub motor required, or can I replace the hall sensors easily? Has anybody advice or tips on what's involved please? I've no idea what make the hub motor is, but I've attached pictures of the markings
Thanks in advance for your help.



View attachment 31758View attachment 31760View attachment 31761

 

[Bobbington]

\\\\\\\\hi, I had an issue my hall sensors on my hub motor sometime ago now, I put a number of photos on here showing my progress , One became disconnected from its signal wire under the Heat shrink insulation. difficult to find. the sensors are very cheap so I replaced all 3.
I had a similar fault code to you on my display. Very satisfying when it spun up. Take pics at every stage when you start (obviously)
I used super glue to stick the sensors back between the coils & number the wires if you change all 3.
If you need any more assistance, happy to help. \\\\\\\\bob1.harding@yahoo.com.

 

[vfr400]

It's always best to test to see what's not working before pulling things apart or replacing parts. Tests show you where to look for the problem.

With everything switched on and connected, check that you have 5V between red and black hall whites, then test that each hall wire pulses 5v when you turn the wheel backwards.