Motor cutting out, thoughts?

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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No need to test fets as the motor works.
Mosfet tests only confirm controller failure by pin pointing the issue, it takes out any guess work.
 

volt x

Pedelecer
Apr 26, 2025
25
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3 - 6mm doesn't give a strong signal strength , it any at all.
This is why I don't like to google. Too much conflicting info. Though I did google for this particular info and 1mm -3mm is what's showing. So I'll keep mine inside these measurements.
 

volt x

Pedelecer
Apr 26, 2025
25
0
No need to test fets as the motor works.
Mosfet tests only confirm controller failure by pin pointing the issue, it takes out any guess work.
Are you saying I don't need to follow thelarkbox advice. I hope so because it's a bit above my pay grade
 

volt x

Pedelecer
Apr 26, 2025
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Why ask here if you are not going to try what's advised?
Have you got a problem, you only seem to be asking pointless questions. It's verging on weird. So as you haven't offered any advice. Or you can tell me what advice I have not tried. Then just stop.
 

thelarkbox

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 23, 2023
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Are you saying I don't need to follow thelarkbox advice. I hope so because it's a bit above my pay grade
i suggested moving the magnet disk closer first ;) and if then your problems persist and your convinced its a controller issue the #1 controller issue to rule out is the mosfets..

edit..
also the ebikes.ca info is worth saving a link to for future ebike issues..
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Mosfest either work or don't work , the exception is thermal cut outs when they get hot and need to cool down again to begin the switching process.
If the motor works even internittently then one has to fault the cause elsewhere.
 

volt x

Pedelecer
Apr 26, 2025
25
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i suggested moving the magnet disk closer first ;) and if then your problems persist and your convinced its a controller issue the #1 controller issue to rule out is the mosfets..

edit..
also the ebikes.ca info is worth saving a link to for future ebike issues..
On another forum one person says that when the walk assist throttle is intermittent, to which it is. Then that rules out the speed sensor. I think I may have mentioned the walk assist throttle problem on here , but like the cutting out motor it's doing the same.

Does it rule out the sensor / disc. As it is I have moved the disc closer . Plus I have saved the ebikes.ca , but it's somewhat more complicated for my limited brain function. Still I'm glad you mentioned it.
 

volt x

Pedelecer
Apr 26, 2025
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Mosfest either work or don't work , the exception is thermal cut outs when they get hot and need to cool down again to begin the switching process.
If the motor works even internittently then one has to fault the cause elsewhere.
You mentioned thermal cut outs, when I used the bike on Sunday. It was a round trip and the first part was mostly downhill. Thus the return was uphill , the journey started with a lot of cutting out but the further I went the less frequent the cut outs.

The return was a pleasant surprise and the one major hill was with out fault. This to me suggests heat is not an issue. Do you think the controller can be ruled out. The speed sensor ( I'm taking that as the one opposite the magnetic disc) is also ruled out. As the walk assist throttle is intermittent also.

BTW if it appeared I was trying to contradict your advice on the disc spacing. I wasn't I was just relaying other info found online.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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You haven't replied at all as regards to the hub motor connector , one needs to check it is corrctly inserted all the way ti the embossed line on one part of the connector. This is a prudent suggestion as itwas mentioned or inferred the wheel had been removed so if the connector isn't pushed in all the way then one will get an intimittent contact and also possibly a bad commutation cracking noise.
 

volt x

Pedelecer
Apr 26, 2025
25
0
You haven't replied at all as regards to the hub motor connector , one needs to check it is corrctly inserted all the way ti the embossed line on one part of the connector. This is a prudent suggestion as itwas mentioned or inferred the wheel had been removed so if the connector isn't pushed in all the way then one will get an intimittent contact and also possibly a bad commutation cracking noise.
I don't remember anyone asking the question but yes anytime I unplug it I make sure it's reinserted as far as possible. I've just been out on the bike and it wasn't going well but it did pick up and then gave up. I got off it and pushed the disc regardless of measurements , got back on the bike and it's better but not without cutting out, yet it is better.

When I got home I turned the bike onto the saddle, held the disc and turned the peddles. No motor let it go and motor kicks in. Which begs the question what could be holding the disc whilst riding . I'm going to buy a new disc and sensor , though a 65mm is the only size I can find. It might be the sensor will not fit my bike. I don't know, some research to be carried out. The led on the sensor is very dim and in low light is quite hard to see. Just to clarify the original disc is 75mm
 

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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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If the disc is slipping on the axle then one has to find away to stop it.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
21,370
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A new disc is aligned with the accompanying disc so actual disc diameter matters not.
 

volt x

Pedelecer
Apr 26, 2025
25
0
If the disc is slipping on the axle then one has to find away to stop it.
Only if I hold, I can't work out what would hold it while riding. You mentioned earlier putting some insulating tape around the axle might help. I'll give that ago.