mate city bike knocking noise

[Bafangkid]

Hi everyone what a great forum

I’m hoping some of you gurus can help me I’ve got a mate city 350w in for repair. This is the bike https://www.mate.bike/us/product/mate-city-350w-metallic-red-13ah-30-miles/

The bike throws the following error codes.
Error 6: Check motor or controller
Error 1: Throttle issue

If I try and ride no pedal assistance is active.

If I try and pull away with just the throttle a loud knocking noise comes from under the seat post where I assume the controller is located. Does anyone know this issue? Also what would make the controller make such a click a relay or solenoid maybe? I'm happy to replace the controller when stock is available.

Thank you

 

[vfr400]

My manual says the other way round.

01 is the throttle. You get that when the controller detects a non-zero throttle signal when you switch on. I'm not sure if you get that when the signal goes right out of range, like 36v instead of 1.0v to 4.0v.

06 is a the current through the shunt is too high.The controller sends out current to the motor, which is limited to a maximum that's written on the label. If it detects current substantially above that, you get error 06. That means that the controller is not controlling the current, which would be when there's a short circuit through the mosfets. all your symptoms are consistent with that.

An easy test if you don't have a meter is to try to rotate the motor wheel backwards while switched off (not disconnected). You should feel slight resistance as the motor turns, but if it's difficult or a very uneven force, you have blown mosfets.

The cause could also be due to melted phase wires or their connectors at the controller end of the motor cable. you have to look inside the compartment to check that, which means removing the connector panel on the front of the back part of the frame in the fold. Unscrew the screws and pull it forward to reveal all the wires and the controller. As you have the throttle signal wire too, I think that this is quite a likely cause.

How did the problem start? What caused it? These sort of things don't normally happen on their own. You need to tell the whole story.

 

[Nealh]

Sounds like the bike is at a a dealer or bike repair shop, as the Op states the bike is in for repair. Probably doesn't know more then we do about the who, what, why or where.

 

[Bafangkid]

My manual says the other way round.

01 is the throttle. You get that when the controller detects a non-zero throttle signal when you switch on. I'm not sure if you get that when the signal goes right out of range, like 36v instead of 1.0v to 4.0v.

06 is a the current through the shunt is too high.The controller sends out current to the motor, which is limited to a maximum that's written on the label. If it detects current substantially above that, you get error 06. That means that the controller is not controlling the current, which would be when there's a short circuit through the mosfets. all your symptoms are consistent with that.

An easy test if you don't have a meter is to try to rotate the motor wheel backwards while switched off (not disconnected). You should feel slight resistance as the motor turns, but if it's difficult or a very uneven force, you have blown mosfets.

The cause could also be due to melted phase wires or their connectors at the controller end of the motor cable. you have to look inside the compartment to check that, which means removing the connector panel on the front of the back part of the frame in the fold. Unscrew the screws and pull it forward to reveal all the wires and the controller. As you have the throttle signal wire too, I think that this is quite a likely cause.

How did the problem start? What caused it? These sort of things don't normally happen on their own. You need to tell the whole story.

hey thanks for replying sorry i typed them around the wrong way 1 and 6. I was working from memory it's not all it used to be. The bike isn't mine its from a friend who purchased 2 of these and one was faulty from the off. So I can't tell to much about the fault sadly i've just been lumped with fixing it.

Thanks for the excellent info. I will try those tests and strip the controller out anyway next week when I am with the bike again. I think its a short of some kind I was just thrown by the knock its quite strong, and you can feel it wobbling the frame.

Do you know if generic KT controllers can be used or if the only mate version must be used. Only reason I ask is their stock levels are zero until December.

Thanks

 

[vfr400]

hey thanks for replying sorry i typed them around the wrong way 1 and 6. I was working from memory it's not all it used to be. The bike isn't mine its from a friend who purchased 2 of these and one was faulty from the off. So I can't tell to much about the fault sadly i've just been lumped with fixing it.

Thanks for the excellent info. I will try those tests and strip the controller out anyway next week when I am with the bike again. I think its a short of some kind I was just thrown by the knock its quite strong, and you can feel it wobbling the frame.

Do you know if generic KT controllers can be used or if the only mate version must be used. Only reason I ask is their stock levels are zero until December.

Thanks

You can use a normal KT controller. The only problem is that you don't have access to all the settings with that LCD1 and sometimes the controllers come with weird settings. It might be worth buying one with the LCD3, then you can sell the LCD on Ebay after you fixed the bike.

 

[Bafangkid]

You can use a normal KT controller. The only problem is that you don't have access to all the settings with that LCD1 and sometimes the controllers come with weird settings. It might be worth buying one with the LCD3, then you can sell the LCD on Ebay after you fixed the bike.

I will do thanks again much appreciated.

 

[vfr400]

I will do thanks again much appreciated.

Before buying anything, you need to verify the cause of the problem, then test the hall sensors in the motor.

 

[Nealh]

I keep my LCD1 & 2 displays on the bikes and if I need to make any C changes, use my LCD3 fitted on another bike to change them. Once they are made I switch off disconnect and then reconnect the LCD1/2.