lessons learnt and now even more advice required

Bikes4two

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 21, 2020
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Havant
I know this sounds silly with me buying another ebike and I should know more about electrics, but I struggle with electronic terminology, it's only recently that I have found out that the more amps the better, I thought it was all about watts and volts, so buying, attempting to set up and trying understand the readings on one of these would just confuse me and frustrate me.
Les
Ah right - try this tiny bit of info to see if it helps:
  • The relationship between amps and volts is defined by Ohms Law - you don't need to understand this law but if you do, you'll find it useful in understanding these things more clearly
  • when you buy a battery it comes at a nominal voltage and it's capacity (loosely akin to what size a car's petrol tank is) is most commonly described in amp-hours (Ah).
  • sometimes a battery's capacity is also described in watt-hours. (Wh).
  • Watt-hours are simply determined by multiplying the nominal voltage (V) by its capacity in amp-hours (Ah) i.e. Wh = V x Ah
  • E.g a 36v battery at 10Ah has a capacity of 36 x 10 = 360Wh
it's only recently that I have found out that the more amps the better
  • No, the range is down to the capacity of the battery described in amp-hours (or watt-hours).
  • When considering purchasing a battery, bear in mind that the more Ah (or Wh) it is, the greater the cost and the greater the weight you'll be lugging around
  • So if you buy a large battery that might give you a hundred mile range but you ever only go to the shops/pub/friend's house 10 miles away, then that's a considerable waste of money and your energy.
Feel free to ask any questions on this subject - it's what this forum is for and everyone has to start somehwhere in understanding the in's and out's of ebikes :D .
 
Last edited:

Terol Jiang

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 13, 2023
11
2
yes, i consider that DIY a bike to electric bike much cheaper, electric motor & battery total costs need about £600. if enjoy riding, TSDZ2B torque sensor mid motor kits is the best choice, if just instead of walk, wheel motor conversion kits is ok, as the costs of this type is the lowest (must have in store in your country, the shipping costs is very high).
PS: TSDZ2B mid motor is special for MTB and off road bike.
 

LesG

Pedelecer
Jun 23, 2023
67
12
Ah right - try this tiny bit of info to see if it helps:
  • The relationship between amps and volts is defined by Ohms Law - you don't need to understand this law but if you do, you'll find it useful in understanding these things more clearly
  • when you buy a battery it comes at a nominal voltage and it's capacity (loosely akin to what size a car's petrol tank is) is most commonly described in amp-hours (Ah).
  • sometimes a battery's capacity is also described in watt-hours. (Wh).
  • Watt-hours are simply determined by multiplying the nominal voltage (V) by its capacity in amp-hours (Ah) i.e. Wh = V x Ah
  • E.g a 36v battery at 10Ah has a capacity of 36 x 10 = 360Wh


  • No, the range is down to the capacity of the battery described in amp-hours (or watt-hours).
  • When considering purchasing a battery, bear in mind that the more Ah (or Wh) it is, the greater the cost and the greater the weight you'll be lugging around
  • So if you buy a large battery that might give you a hundred mile range but you ever only go to the shops/pub/friend's house 10 miles away, then that's a considerable waste of money and your energy.
Feel free to ask any questions on this subject - it's what this forum is for and everyone has to start somehwhere in understanding the in's and out's of ebikes :D .
Interesting, thank you, so in reality for me to get 500Wh I need a battery with 36v and 14 Ah?
In reality I would do probably 40 miles max, but as I live on top of a hill I don't want the range to be poor on my way back home and have to pedal hard, this is the main reason for getting an ebike
 

LesG

Pedelecer
Jun 23, 2023
67
12
yes, i consider that DIY a bike to electric bike much cheaper, electric motor & battery total costs need about £600. if enjoy riding, TSDZ2B torque sensor mid motor kits is the best choice, if just instead of walk, wheel motor conversion kits is ok, as the costs of this type is the lowest (must have in store in your country, the shipping costs is very high).
PS: TSDZ2B mid motor is special for MTB and off road bike.
I don't think a MTB is the way I want to go, but thank you
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
6,814
3,152
Telford
Interesting, thank you, so in reality for me to get 500Wh I need a battery with 36v and 14 Ah?
In reality I would do probably 40 miles max, but as I live on top of a hill I don't want the range to be poor on my way back home and have to pedal hard, this is the main reason for getting an ebike
Unless you're less than 80kg, 48v will always be better, especially for hills.
 
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LesG

Pedelecer
Jun 23, 2023
67
12



id wait if you can as prices will start going down fast soon :)

I am really interested in the middle one
Haibike Trekking 3 2023 Crossbar

and will continue to monitor the price which I presume will drop ( if at all ) around October time
 

LesG

Pedelecer
Jun 23, 2023
67
12
Unless you're less than 80kg, 48v will always be better, especially for hills.
actually I am 12 and a half stone just under 80kgs
Most of the ebikes I have looked at seem to be 36v especially around my price range
 

soundwave

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 23, 2015
16,897
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LesG

Pedelecer
Jun 23, 2023
67
12

LesG

Pedelecer
Jun 23, 2023
67
12
Unless you're less than 80kg, 48v will always be better, especially for hills.
Now I am getting really confused, after getting loads of welcome advice on here, I seem to be going backwards with my knowledge of ebikes
I thought power was all in the Wh's so 500Wh is a good amount
This particular Haibike I am looking at is 500Wh and has 75Nm to help get me up these hills, now I am being advised to get a heavier 48v battery if over 80kg
 

Woosh

Trade Member
May 19, 2012
20,369
16,870
Southend on Sea
wooshbikes.co.uk
WH is a unit of energy, 500Wh gives you about 50-80 miles.
NM is a unit of torque, 75NM is above average, you can climb steep hills up to about 20% at your weight.
You only get 48V batteries from small producers and kits. Mainstream producers use only 36V.
48V is better for heavy riders but not a deal breaker.
 
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Bonzo Banana

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 29, 2019
805
464
Back to my original post and my wish list of -

I am willing to pay 1.5k or if absolutely required, 2k top
I am not bothered about riding off road, just enjoy riding for pleasure
I am a healthy 61 and 6ft tall 12.5 stone
I live in a hilly area so really need 50-60 Nm
Ideally mid hub as I was really impressed with the more expensive bike
I would like 60 miles assisted range and a 400Wh battery.

I have been scouring the www and found this in a local bike shop, what are your opinions ?


Thanks
Les
That looks like a terrible hill climbing ebike. The motor is only 40Nm and the ratio of 34 at the back and 38 at the front means 40x(34/38) plus a bit of loss through the chain means you are at about 34Nm and then you have large 700c wheels with 700x42 tyres so very large diameter wheels so effective torque is much reduced. This is actually quite a weak ebike. I'd say the majority of hub motor ebikes are more powerful.

Where mid-drive excels is with high output models 80Nm or more with low gearing as is typical of many e-mountain bikes. If you really want to maximise your torque go for 20" wheels too although that makes mountain bike gearing more difficult.

If I was configuring a ebike purely for hill climbing I'd probably go for one of Halford's Carrera Subway's and fit a Tongsheng mid-drive motor plus replace the stock cassette with one of those wide range 11-52T 8 speed cassettes or as close as you can get.

The issue with a pre-built ebike with a mid-drive motor designed for off-road is it will have suspension which is un-necessary for the road. It just makes more sense to configure your own ebike as I don't think there is a reasonably priced pre-built solution. I guess you could get a pre-built hard tail and change the suspension forks to rigid forks but it might look a bit weird.

You don't want a low power Bosch mid-drive motor, all the extra complexity, high repair costs, shorter lifespan for no actual benefit in power. Surely one of the worst ebike options out there.
 

Bikes4two

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 21, 2020
1,007
432
Havant
Now I am getting really confused, after getting loads of welcome advice on here, I seem to be going backwards with my knowledge of ebikes
I thought power was all in the Wh's so 500Wh is a good amount
  • Oh my goodness, you are getting confused! I hoped my post #21 would have helped but aparently not?
  • So take this car analogy: The Wh (Watt Hours) figure is for the energy in the battery as @Woosh said - this is like the amount of petrol/size of petrol tank in a car
  • A car's petrol tank has nothing to do with the engine size/power.
  • The Nm (newton metres) and motor voltage are all to do with what you can get out of the motor and you've already got advice on that aspect earlier in this thread.
  • Rounding up the various advice from other posts in this thread, the bottom line for your situation comes to something like this - go for a 48v system with a battery of around 500Wh or more and a motor delivering near to 80Nm as possible.
  • If you can get 500Wh and near to 80Nm in a 36v system, then settle for that.
 
Last edited:

LesG

Pedelecer
Jun 23, 2023
67
12
  • Oh my goodness, you are getting confused! I hoped my post #21 would have helped but aparently not?
  • So take this car analogy: The Wh (Watt Hours) figure is for the energy in the battery as @Woosh said - this is like the amount of petrol/size of petrol tank in a car
  • A car's petrol tank has nothing to do with the engine size/power.
  • The Nm (newton metres) and motor voltage are all to do with what you can get out of the motor and you've already got advice on that aspect earlier in this thread.
  • Rounding up the various advice from other posts in this thread, the bottom line for your situation comes to something like this - go for a 48v system with a battery of around 500Wh or more and a motor delivering near to 80Nm as possible.
  • If you can get 500Wh and near to 80Nm in a 36v system, then settle for that.

  • Watt-hours are simply determined by multiplying the nominal voltage (V) by its capacity in amp-hours (Ah) i.e. Wh = V x Ah
  • E.g a 36v battery at 10Ah has a capacity of 36 x 10 = 360Wh
I think the main reason for my confusion is after your advice on post 21 I suggested a 36v battery with a 14Ah would give me 500Wh then being told by others that a (harder to get in a pre assembled ebike) heavier 48v battery is the way to go which I presume would be a 48v x 10.4Ah would give the same 500Wh output.

  • If you can get 500Wh and near to 80Nm in a 36v system, then settle for that.
This appears to fit my criteria

 
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LesG

Pedelecer
Jun 23, 2023
67
12
That looks like a terrible hill climbing ebike. The motor is only 40Nm and the ratio of 34 at the back and 38 at the front means 40x(34/38) plus a bit of loss through the chain means you are at about 34Nm and then you have large 700c wheels with 700x42 tyres so very large diameter wheels so effective torque is much reduced. This is actually quite a weak ebike. I'd say the majority of hub motor ebikes are more powerful.

Where mid-drive excels is with high output models 80Nm or more with low gearing as is typical of many e-mountain bikes. If you really want to maximise your torque go for 20" wheels too although that makes mountain bike gearing more difficult.

If I was configuring a ebike purely for hill climbing I'd probably go for one of Halford's Carrera Subway's and fit a Tongsheng mid-drive motor plus replace the stock cassette with one of those wide range 11-52T 8 speed cassettes or as close as you can get.

The issue with a pre-built ebike with a mid-drive motor designed for off-road is it will have suspension which is un-necessary for the road. It just makes more sense to configure your own ebike as I don't think there is a reasonably priced pre-built solution. I guess you could get a pre-built hard tail and change the suspension forks to rigid forks but it might look a bit weird.

You don't want a low power Bosch mid-drive motor, all the extra complexity, high repair costs, shorter lifespan for no actual benefit in power. Surely one of the worst ebike options out there.
Thank you, I have gone off this Raleigh since I saw the specifications on this Haibike

 
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