Help! LCD3 settings

[Benjahmin]

Just getting the recumbent out and ready for some summer riding.
It has an AKM128cst, T09S controller and LCD3.
For now I'm going to run it with the Dillinger 48v 11.5Ah battery it originally came with (might as well use it up).

I have most things set and bike seems to rum well, but struggling to understand the slightly more esoteric things. So here's some questions.
P1 as motor seems OK is this something I need to bother about?
P2 Max speed is already set to 16mph but want to make sure it's accurate. Anybody know how many pulses/rev this motor gives?
P3 I'm OK with
P4 I want the throttle to be 6Kph unless pedalling - then full acting. So is this 0 or 1?
C5 I'm thinking with a 48v battery then17.5A will be plenty. This seems to be 06, is that right?
Or will a lower current be OK - never used 48v before.
C12 Default minimum volyage setting is 30v and 40v for 36 and 48v respectively. Seems a bit low to me, or cand I rely on the bms to take care of this?

Of course the other thing is how do I get to them. The chinglish is a bit hard to decipher.

Thanks for your wisdoms.

 

[AGS]

According to the specifications the motor has 16 magnets and either a 10.5 or 8.1 gear ratio depending if it’s a 201 rpm or 328 rpm motor.

P1 - should be either 129 or 168
P2 - I have no idea
P4 - 1 and C4 -1 need to set both of these.
C5 - Depends upon your maximum safe battery current.
C12 - I set mine to 7 and let the BMS protect the battery

 

[thelarkbox]

A mobile phone with a gps enabled directions/map app should give you a real time speed.

 

[Nealh]

I use 168 for P1. Use a gps to clarify speed is correct, if out just adjust up or down according whether LCD reading is low or high .
P2/1 , motor only has one internal speed magnet.
P4 /1 is pedal first to activate throttle power.
C4/1 for 6kmh.
C5/ 06 is dependant on max controller current. If 22a then 06 will be ok.
Should show about 840w displayed but theortically should be about 675w in use.
840w will be battery power output in watts and not motor output power.
C12 /4 i s ok as the BMS should cut in, if one wishes to raise C12 then no harm will be done.

Now the chinglish bit.
One has to make each change within 5 seconds of the next other wise the parameter settings go back to the very start.
Turn on display and then simultaneously press up/down pads to enter the basic settings (each parameter will flash) until speed , wheel size , metric/imperial is set .( once a parameter is set a quick press of the on/off will toggle to the next parameter).
When done one has to press the up/down again to enter P settings (within 5 seconds). Follow the same pad procedure to advance to each parameter.
Again when done , up/down to enter C settings.

 

[Benjahmin]

That's great. Thankyou gents, I'll see if I can get to it in the morning.
I'll have to nick the sat nav out of the car to check the speed next time I take the bike to Pembrey.
Yep, that's right, not only do I not posess a smart 'phone but our sat nav is an old TomTom that is no longer updated. At least it means none of the new 20mph limits show up on it.

 

[thelarkbox]

Ha, "SAT NAV" I was suffering word blindness above ' 'Sat Nav' eluded my recall completely! aargghhhh!

 

[Benjahmin]

Well that was relatively painless. Throttle is definitely working as walk assist but can't tell if it's full acting whilst pedalling as even level 1 is driving to full speed on the stand.
I do have a concern with the Dillinger battery output cable. At the most I'd say it's 1.5mm possibly less. As an electrician, this looks too small to me. It is a multistranded silver coloured cable that seems to be high density but it is small enough to have been poked into the small part of a 30A Anderson connector with no trimming.
It originally had a julet 2 pin on it, I've replaced with Andersons.
I've set maximum current to 17.6A - what do you think?

 

[AGS]

Chinese wire gauges always seem ridiculously small to me as well, but I haven’t had anything melt yet.

 

[Nealh]

17.6a should be ok , one will drawing near 700 watts in PAS 5 or throtlle.

I checke dmy Q128c's P1 today and it was set to 165 .

 

[Benjahmin]

Got the recumbent down to Pembrey the other day, for it's first long run.
LCD settings seem to be working well. Throttle is walk assist until pedalling then full. But I have to say the motor does not like walk assist with me on the bike. It sounds 'orrible until pas kicks in.
Level 1 assist giving me about 70-80w and 12/13 mph at 36v. When I swapped to 48v this was giving me 100/110w and 15mph.
Used level 5 up a couple of ramps and saw 7/800w flashup.
Overall pleased with the kit and the setup. Magnetic brake needs some fettling and my low speed control/balance of this wierd bike defineatly needs some work. Still haven't quite worked out if you steer it or bank it, though turning your head in the direction you want to go certainly helps. It's very very responsive to the slightest twitch on the bars so relaxing my arms and hands is the main focus. Scratching ones nose can cause a severe wobble !
Didn't get to check the cutoff speed, too busy trying to look cool amidst all the stares .
Thanks to all who helped with the settings and main build thread