Lcd screen compatibility

[Kbekla]

So I think I have an issue with my display/controller, power up and goes fine then randomly shuts off and won't power back up for 10 mins or so, if I hold the power button the motor will give pas but you have to hold the power on button.

So it seems the s830 has water inside some how, it has the juliet plug on it, can I replace it for any display with the same plug or do I need to match the rest of the kit

 

[Nealh]

Display has to be compatible with the controller brand.

 

[Kbekla]

Display has to be compatible with the controller brand.

OK thanks for the info, any way to identify the controller?

 

[Benjahmin]

Put up a photo of the controller and display and someone may well recognise them.
What bike is it? Is it a kit or oem?

 

[Kbekla]

Put up a photo of the controller and display and someone may well recognise them.
What bike is it? Is it a kit or oem?

It was a kit from ebay

Here is the controller

 

[Bikes4two]

In the absence of anyone recognising and/or recommending a suitable replacement that works with your display, then as has been said in other posts, go for a KT (Kung Teng) controller and matching display.

Just search AliExpress with 'KT Controller' to get an insight into what you can get.

 

[Benjahmin]

So, back to your original post.
You're assuming that the display has water in it. Do you know for sure or is this surmise?
You say that power is lost randomly. Is this when the bike is in use, or does this happen if it's just turned on and left standing?
How old is the battery? Your contrller says that it is a 25A one. Is your battery rated/capable of delivering this current (actually it needs to be capable of delivering at least 30A).
What motor is it? In fact, have you got a link to the kit you bought?
Do you have a digital volt meter?
All this info is needed to help you and to try and prevent money being spent uneccesarily.

 

[Nealh]

The S830 is Intelligent brand, I have one from a GSM mid drive and believe Lishui controllers can use them. The software inside denotes whether it can be compatible so one can't just buy another s830 as it may not be compatible,
I have tried one on a KT controller and I get power a battery level and one PAS level but no other info, so only about 20% workable.

The controller isn't recognisable, if one suspects the display is faulty then it might be a loose wire inside. If it's not working then no harm in trying to open/pry it open to access the pcb.

 

[Nealh]

Identifying the controller it is not one I can put a name to, apart form that it is one of many OEM only China brands.
Generally once things start to go wrong one is best buy using the most generic brand available and one that gives many options of controllers and displays to swap with out issues. This is KT or Kuenteng brand, they have good business sense and don't just sell as OEM, many outlets sell this universal brand. All one has to do is decide between waterproof connectors or the old SM block type connections for easier fault diagnosis.

 

[Nealh]

When the display goes off or controller cuts out, how and when does this happen.

 

[Kbekla]

It was this kit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1000w-27-5-ebike-conversion-kit-rear-with-12-5ah-battery-and-controller-bag-/255059674510?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

 

[Kbekla]

So it happens when riding, if I hold the power on button down the pas system still works but only at full power.

I took the screen apart and it had water inside so dried it out on the radiator not really done many miles since so but will update

 

[Benjahmin]

Try putting the display in a bag of rice for a couple of days, it will draw out any moisture.
The motor is a direct drive. They are notoriously punishing on batteries. With a 25A controller the battery needs to be capable of delivering at least 30A so as to be not stressed/damaged by the current draw.
You say that when this starts to go wrong you hold the power button and get full power. In this state you will be drawing the full 25A. If the battery is either not fully specced or is ageing it will suffer voltage sag. If/when this reaches the low voltage cut off of either the controller or the battery management system, then all power will be cut.
It is a common occurence with these large direct drive motors. They need big batteries with top class cells and so are very expensive.
Can you measure what voltage the battery is when it has just been charged?
Can you measure the voltage when it has just cutout?

 

[Kbekla]

Try putting the display in a bag of rice for a couple of days, it will draw out any moisture.
The motor is a direct drive. They are notoriously punishing on batteries. With a 25A controller the battery needs to be capable of delivering at least 30A so as to be not stressed/damaged by the current draw.
You say that when this starts to go wrong you hold the power button and get full power. In this state you will be drawing the full 25A. If the battery is either not fully specced or is ageing it will suffer voltage sag. If/when this reaches the low voltage cut off of either the controller or the battery management system, then all power will be cut.
It is a common occurence with these large direct drive motors. They need big batteries with top class cells and so are very expensive.
Can you measure what voltage the battery is when it has just been charged?
Can you measure the voltage when it has just cutout?

Hi I have never reached voltage cut off I don't think, had the battery indicate 3% left on the display when heading home once or twice but settle it jumps back up to 25-30% so under big loads there is a bit of voltage sag, in lower powered modes do manage about 3 miles with the display remaining at 100% tend to sit it on lvl 3 and that sets a speed of 13mph

When the display switched off I was in mode 2 drawing 3 amps, I display amp draw when out for a long ride, it cut at about 60% remaining at 51 volts as I did cycle the display when it came back on.

So it was fully charged yesterday morning so has sat all day and night and the volt meter reads 53.9v so it is missing a little I think but not alot

So I am right in thinking if I was to change the controller and drop to a lower amp output the motor would be slower but would cause less voltage sag or do I need to stay with a 25 to 30 amp due to the type of motor ?