LCD Display.

[Deleted member 45125]

My Yosepower kit came with a a LCD display unit Y02 C500. In the instructions there are 5 general settings, setting 5 is to set the battery voltage in my case 36. But my display only shows settings 1 - 4, there is no setting 5. I contacted Yose customer support telling Joey the above and his reply was, choose setting 5 to set voltage. That got me nowhere, so please does anybody know why I do not have this setting, could it be a faulty unit?

 

[Saracen]

Google Y02 C500 display settings there are many

Y02 C500

 

[Deleted member 45125]

Yes there are many settings, but I am referring to the general settings 1 to 5, not the advanced settings.

 

[thelarkbox]

The yose-power 250w kit i fitted over the summer came with the same display.

Your limited by the eu/uk compliant controller firmware.. It limits the settings that the end user can change to just the speed display metric km/h and wheel size, though this effects only the speed display and not power output.

they supply a couple of different brand controllers mine is a ?janusi? not the luishi ? dont quote me on brand spelling.. and my experience is limited to the brand i use.

Initially i was a bit miffed and started planning the controller exchange, i resent not owning stuff i buy ....

Once i got into the swing of riding the ebike conversion, I lost interest in the hassle of the switchover..

 

[thelarkbox]

Is your controller not recognizing your battery as 36v or giving you an error code?? or are you diligently following the international manual?

If plugged in and showing a healthy voltage (close to 42 fully charged) and no error codes, and all sensors brakes and pas are fully plugged in ? you should be good to go.. its a turn on and use system.

unlike twist n go throttle speed control you find on mopeds etc pedal assist (pas) is stepped speed control,

pas level 1 will run the motor to a walking pace and cut off, pas level 2 upto 6? mph and cut off, level 3 8-9? mph and cut off, 4- 10-12mph? and level 5 upto 15.6mph

its full open throttle acceleration until the speed level limit is hiot and the motor cuts off..

its different but quick to get used to even after years of m/bike ridding..

 

[Deleted member 45125]

The yose-power 250w kit i fitted over the summer came with the same display.

Your limited by the eu/uk compliant controller firmware.. It limits the settings that the end user can change to just the speed display metric km/h and wheel size, though this effects only the speed display and not power output.

they supply a couple of different brand controllers mine is a ?janusi? not the luishi ? dont quote me on brand spelling.. and my experience is limited to the brand i use.

Initially i was a bit miffed and started planning the controller exchange, i resent not owning stuff i buy ....

Once i got into the swing of riding the ebike conversion, I lost interest in the hassle of the switchover..

Thanks for this info. My controller is integrated wit the battery support mount. The controller is Lishui 36v. I would have thought that the display voltage either 36v or 48v would be important. I can't see why UK/EU would not allow this input.

Did you set up any of the advanced settings for the PAS as shown in my screenshot. If so can you please explain what they mean.

Well yesterday I activated the display and ran an air speed test ti see if the motor was OK. All 5 power settings worked OK.

 

[Deleted member 45125]

Is your controller not recognizing your battery as 36v or giving you an error code?? or are you diligently following the international manual?

If plugged in and showing a healthy voltage (close to 42 fully charged) and no error codes, and all sensors brakes and pas are fully plugged in ? you should be good to go.. its a turn on and use system.

unlike twist n go throttle speed control you find on mopeds etc pedal assist (pas) is stepped speed control,

pas level 1 will run the motor to a walking pace and cut off, pas level 2 upto 6? mph and cut off, level 3 8-9? mph and cut off, 4- 10-12mph? and level 5 upto 15.6mph

its full open throttle acceleration until the speed level limit is hiot and the motor cuts off..

its different but quick to get used to even after years of m/bike ridding..

I presume the controller is recognising the battery voltage as the hub motor runs OK, no error codes. The battery is just as it was sent to me, I have not charged it yet. It showed 1 and a bit bars from memory on the display. The manual is a small booklet 4" x 3" in 5 European languages.
Only have the PAS sensor in use, not using anything else.
Ran an air speed test yesterday and got these readings. Level 1. 7.7 mph/2. 10.9/ 3. 13.0/ 4. 14.7 /5. 17.5. So something is working OK.

 

[thelarkbox]

Sounds similar to my kit differing in the controller brand alone, first place i landed looking for controller info was pedelec.de where some controller gurus have alternative f/w for some controllers possibly yours? but not mine.

Generally speaking the option to change voltage would only apply where the controller is able to handle both voltage input range levels. if your employing a 36v controller its not going to have the 48v option.

As for changing any settings or parameters on my controller all i can mod is the speed metric and wheel size, i can also reset distance counters and change pas level on the fly but most system config is simply disabled.

if a problem an alternative KT controller that can fit under the battery slide could be sourced to replace yours providing a full range of configurable parameters that can actually change the way the bike works, not just lifting the speed limit but changing how power is delivered (if of interest its worth looking into)

However after a week on the bike any urgency may also disappear for any such project like it did this end..

Neither my bike or its brakes could cope with speeds greater than 16mph considering my mass and whats usually on the back of the bike. so meh..

fwiw once the ebike honeymoon was over i tend now not to use the e-power at all heading off (downhill and flat mostly) engaging when i feel like it at level 4 - 5 depending on rd conditions 15mph without suspension can be VERY bumpy on some rds. I rarely use levels 1,2,3, or the throttle which will only work to 4mph (f/w limitation again).

the extra £80-90 for the controller/headset switch would enable features but meh, the bike works as is

btw keep an eye on your front brake and its wear..

 

[thelarkbox]

An alternaitve yose controller upgrade is the yose power controller /battery sled for the 350w kit and its matching c500 headset (the 250w kit display will not work fully with the 350w controller).

if you have the 350w kit wink wink scrub all the above the controller should be 'international' without restrictions and work as described in the manual,

However voltage selection will not be available due to the under battery controller being limited in space. and may not have dual voltage capacity. ' standard' ebike controllers are boxed and sized to house the components and features. So far i have not seen any dual voltage under battery sled controllers

 

[Deleted member 45125]

Sounds similar to my kit differing in the controller brand alone, first place i landed looking for controller info was pedelec.de where some controller gurus have alternative f/w for some controllers possibly yours? but not mine.

Generally speaking the option to change voltage would only apply where the controller is able to handle both voltage input range levels. if your employing a 36v controller its not going to have the 48v option.

As for changing any settings or parameters on my controller all i can mod is the speed metric and wheel size, i can also reset distance counters and change pas level on the fly but most system config is simply disabled.

if a problem an alternative KT controller that can fit under the battery slide could be sourced to replace yours providing a full range of configurable parameters that can actually change the way the bike works, not just lifting the speed limit but changing how power is delivered (if of interest its worth looking into)

However after a week on the bike any urgency may also disappear for any such project like it did this end..

Neither my bike or its brakes could cope with speeds greater than 16mph considering my mass and whats usually on the back of the bike. so meh..

fwiw once the ebike honeymoon was over i tend now not to use the e-power at all heading off (downhill and flat mostly) engaging when i feel like it at level 4 - 5 depending on rd conditions 15mph without suspension can be VERY bumpy on some rds. I rarely use levels 1,2,3, or the throttle which will only work to 4mph (f/w limitation again).

the extra £80-90 for the controller/headset switch would enable features but meh, the bike works as is

btw keep an eye on your front brake and its wear..

Thanks for your info. Regarding your last sentence. This is a new bike and in my mind has been put together in a "hurried" fashion in Bangladesh. So many items were not completed which I had to complete and to me the most important items being the V brakes. The rear brake pads were offset meaning they were staggered. After much fiddling with an unknown brake I managed to get them centered. But the front one was a different story. No matter what I tried I could not get them adjusted correctly.
Now my old bike built in 1952 a racer of the day I still have, but I could not add an ebike kit to it because 27"wheels are not recognised anymore. But on this bike are caliper side pull brakes and they still work great. So I thought if I can find someone selling caliper brakes, I would remove the front V brake and replace it. By chance on Amazon I found exactly what I needed,a pair for front and rear. So I ordered, removed the V brake and fitted the caliper brake with ease using the existing brake cable. The brake pads are really solid compared with the old style and stop the wheel sharply. Now I am relieved and maybe one day, add the other caliper to the rear.
As to your other point about the 36v controller. Obviously the display unit has recognised this value and being "clever" did not give the option to change it, hence why the step 5 was not visible.

 

[thelarkbox]

I had problems when replacing my front brake blocks a few months into ebike ridding after about 3 years on the bike with the original blocks..

I simply didnt know to look for the tiny circa 1or 2 mm hex screw on each brake arm to adjust the springs so the gap between block and rim could be balanced. easy to spot when you know about it Very easy to overlook when you don't. Thanks to a member in here who pointed it out to me..

Im no bike expert but think V brakes are considered generally superior to calipers ?? I hope to be corrected if wrong? But i think the leverage of the V style exerts more force? (not a physicist) Most will advise hydraulic disk brakes are a requirement for a donor bike to ensure optimal brake performance. and if you can find replacement forks that can accommodate disk brakes its probably worth consideration. Again my bikes design fails me..

Being aware of actual stopping distances and your brakes performance is most crucial.

Actual rim wear is also something to be aware of when i had an original interest in bikes rims on my bike were all steel, now softer aluminium and most find they are much more demanding of their brakes post conversion. ...

RE your old bike, if structurally upto being an ebike frame/forks/brakes etc.. lacing a motor hub into one of your current rims is a viable option, especially with lots of youtube vids to guide you While initially daunting its actually very easy relaxing and rewarding ( ok frustrating when you get 70% rnd and realise an error requires a restart.. but ...) Hardest aspect is sizing the spokes, enter amazon prime and no quible returns..

 

[Deleted member 45125]

I had problems when replacing my front brake blocks a few months into ebike ridding after about 3 years on the bike with the original blocks..

I simply didnt know to look for the tiny circa 1or 2 mm hex screw on each brake arm to adjust the springs so the gap between block and rim could be balanced. easy to spot when you know about it Very easy to overlook when you don't. Thanks to a member in here who pointed it out to me..

Im no bike expert but think V brakes are considered generally superior to calipers ?? I hope to be corrected if wrong? But i think the leverage of the V style exerts more force? (not a physicist) Most will advise hydraulic disk brakes are a requirement for a donor bike to ensure optimal brake performance. and if you can find replacement forks that can accommodate disk brakes its probably worth consideration. Again my bikes design fails me..

Being aware of actual stopping distances and your brakes performance is most crucial.

Actual rim wear is also something to be aware of when i had an original interest in bikes rims on my bike were all steel, now softer aluminium and most find they are much more demanding of their brakes post conversion. ...

RE your old bike, if structurally upto being an ebike frame/forks/brakes etc.. lacing a motor hub into one of your current rims is a viable option, especially with lots of youtube vids to guide you While initially daunting its actually very easy relaxing and rewarding ( ok frustrating when you get 70% rnd and realise an error requires a restart.. but ...) Hardest aspect is sizing the spokes, enter amazon prime and no quible returns..

Thanks for the reply.Re my brakes. I will see once riding how good the brakes are and then invaluate them. My 70 year old bike has calipers front and rear and I never encountered in many miles and years of a problem. This bike has alloy rims because it is a lightweight racing cycle.
Yes it was pointed out to me that lacing a front wheel on my racer could have been done. But this bike has a large frame even with lightweight steel, to get into my hatchback meant removing the front wheel, hence why I gave up the idea and get a new lightweight folding model.
I will only be using it off road on cycle trails here in Norfolk most of which are level. It still has road tyres although I have added Mr Tuffy to hopefully stop any punctures. I don't expect these cheap Bangladesh tyres to last very long, so they will be upgraded at some point.
Yes I did read that V brakes are more efficient and replacing them with a caliper would mean replacing the brake lever. However once I fitted the caliper and adjusted it, the brake lever is in exactly the same place as with the V brake. The pads are the same as the V brake.
Speed to me is not important as being a cyclist I will only be using the eco mode for assistance. I keep fit at home on an indoor cycle.

 

[Deleted member 45125]

Thanks for the reply.Re my brakes. I will see once riding how good the brakes are and then invaluate them. My 70 year old bike has calipers front and rear and I never encountered in many miles and years of a problem. This bike has alloy rims because it is a lightweight racing cycle.
Yes it was pointed out to me that lacing a front wheel on my racer could have been done. But this bike has a large frame even with lightweight steel, to get into my hatchback meant removing the front wheel, hence why I gave up the idea and get a new lightweight folding model.
I will only be using it off road on cycle trails here in Norfolk most of which are level. It still has road tyres although I have added Mr Tuffy to hopefully stop any punctures. I don't expect these cheap Bangladesh tyres to last very long, so they will be upgraded at some point.
Yes I did read that V brakes are more efficient and replacing them with a caliper would mean replacing the brake lever. However once I fitted the caliper and adjusted it, the brake lever is in exactly the same place as with the V brake. The pads are the same as the V brake.
Speed to me is not important as being a cyclist I will only be using the eco mode for assistance. I keep fit at home on an indoor cycle.

 

[Handeall]

basketball random​

My Yosepower kit came with a a LCD display unit Y02 C500. In the instructions there are 5 general settings, setting 5 is to set the battery voltage in my case 36. But my display only shows settings 1 - 4, there is no setting 5. I contacted Yose customer support telling Joey the above and his reply was, choose setting 5 to set voltage. That got me nowhere, so please does anybody know why I do not have this setting, could it be a faulty unit?

I'm having the same issue with my Yosepower kit Y02 C500! I contacted Yose customer support and spoke to Joey, but they just told me to choose setting 5 which isn't even available on my display. Did you ever figure out what the problem was?

 

[Deleted member 45125]

basketball random​

I'm having the same issue with my Yosepower kit Y02 C500! I contacted Yose customer support and spoke to Joey, but they just told me to choose setting 5 which isn't even available on my display. Did you ever figure out what the problem was?

The long and short of it is Joey does not really know so much about this device, he is actually learning from us!!
When I first queried this with him, this was his reply. You can set the voltage in SET5 to 36/48v.
My reply to him yesterday after seeing info here from members.
Actually no you cannot do this as I have discovered from contact with others with your ebike kit. If the controller has a designated output of 36v this cannot be changed in the display unit as the display unit recognises the input from the controller and does not allow it to be changed. This is why the display unit does not give the option in step 5 to change it to say 48v.

And his reply today, this option is default and cannot be changed.