kT-LCD 3 settings help please
- Thread starter Swinman
- Start date
D
Deleted member 4366
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You're misunderstanding something. You charge your battery to about 42v. When you switch on, you should see about 41.5v on the display. The S-LCD3 shows the voltage at the bottom of the screen if you press the power button twice. When you ride the bike, you will see the voltage drop one or two volts at full power.
Thanks never got as far a screen 2 as the bike cuts out in screen 1 the motor display does as above and that tells me that it may be getting to much to quickly but I will try screen 2 when next on the bike , sadly I can't think what to try next could it be any of the C settings or any other P setting that might solve the problem , I'll try to video the bike and post it as that may help , thanks again
D
Deleted member 4366
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You're still misunderstanding.
Switch on the LCD.
Two short presses of the power button, change the box at the bottom of the screen from miles to volts. nothing will cut out.
Switch on the LCD.
Two short presses of the power button, change the box at the bottom of the screen from miles to volts. nothing will cut out.
tried that the screen is on volts and works as you said but the power still cuts out , tried to video it but can't load it for some reason , I'm still of the opinion there is a setting wrong or as one of you previous replays the control unit is to strong at 15a for the motor and I may need to get a lower one thanks
D
Deleted member 4366
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You need to watch what the volts do when you ride the bike. What voltages is showing at the point of cut-off? How do the volts behave when you open the throttle?
Hi I've tried to upload video but it won't work , I've looked at the problem again and I've got all the settings from the lcd3 and compared them to the standard and can only find problem with my p2 is set to 1 not 0 , the votes seem fine , and as I sad before the noise the motor makes is all most like if I had put the brake on quick and shudders to slow then just lets me free wheel, re your previous post about the setting of the P1 , if I open the motor what would I look at to know how many magnets and what is the formula for finding the P1 setting thanks again
Magnets x motor reduction gear ratio, magnets = 16.
Gear ratios I have seen listed appear to vary depending on Q version and rpm.
Generally the two most quoted ratio's are 9.63 for faster winding or 12.6 for slower winding, so P1 154 & 202 respectively.
My Q128c works happily on both, early on though the P1 was set to 87 factory setting and the pas was faltering with pick up.
What is your P5 set at for voltage curve ?
P2 = 1 ; One wheel speed pulse signal per rotation.
P3 = 1 ; For current control smoother then 0 for speed control.
P4 = 0, Throttle always active.
Gear ratios I have seen listed appear to vary depending on Q version and rpm.
Generally the two most quoted ratio's are 9.63 for faster winding or 12.6 for slower winding, so P1 154 & 202 respectively.
My Q128c works happily on both, early on though the P1 was set to 87 factory setting and the pas was faltering with pick up.
What is your P5 set at for voltage curve ?
P2 = 1 ; One wheel speed pulse signal per rotation.
P3 = 1 ; For current control smoother then 0 for speed control.
P4 = 0, Throttle always active.
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If the hub is making a noise sounds like a wiring/connection issue !!!
If a shuddering sticking issue then the clutch assembly may need looking at.
If a shuddering sticking issue then the clutch assembly may need looking at.
D
Deleted member 4366
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One important thing to check: Is your motor connector in all the way to the guide-line?
There's no point in opening the motor. You have to disassemble a lot before you get to the magnets, and even if you had the correct P1 number, it probably won't work.
Another thing that can cause that problem is the motor phase wire bullets not tight enough.
There's no point in opening the motor. You have to disassemble a lot before you get to the magnets, and even if you had the correct P1 number, it probably won't work.
Another thing that can cause that problem is the motor phase wire bullets not tight enough.
Thanks chaps that's great as the bike is new I'm not mad on opening the motor, I will start from the control unit with the wiring and double check all connections as there isn't a lot of room in the box under the battery there may be a connection problem when I put it in ill reset the p1 to above numbers and get back to you as to how it goes thanks again
Hi,
The time is quickly coming where I get to turn the gadgets on. With regard to all the P and C plus all the other clever numbers, does the SLCD3, controller and motor with battery magically work themselves out or do I need to know specific parts like the number of magnets, pulse signals etc.
I've gone for the well-documented Q128C with the 09 48V11.6 with 20A controller combo.
The only one I seem to have been gifted is a P5 of 2 from here as it is 48V - https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/670-s-lcd3-lcd-meter-for-s-series-controlers-ebike-kit.html
Thanks
Ok after a lot of trial and error with the lcd3 settings I found the one that makes the bike go and not cut out as soon as you try to push the throttle to the full , it’s the C5 setting the unit comes with it set at 10 that’s the max , I tried it on a lower setting and found the best was 06 or below at 07 it cuts out and at 03 it dint seem to have much push so it’s staying on 06 and works great as it should, now looking forward to getting out and about hope this helps others with this problem thanks for the help in getting there all the best
OK so that means you are running at 12 Amps peak. I did that for a while as an experiment but as it didn't improve range I stopped.
I’ve only done it to make the bike go as it kept overloading the motor and cutting out , I think as I got the bigger controller and the bike has a little motor they just would not work together so reducing the flow has done the job and if I ever change the wheel and get a bigger motor I won’t have to do much to get it working, I’ve got to check the speed but it seemed to go at about 25 mph on the flat and that’s just to fast to believe so I’ll check it with another cateye I have that I know to be accurate, thanks for the reply
From your description it sounds like the battery voltage may be collapsing, reducing the amps via C5 has helped by reducing the initial amp load asked of it.
The Q100 is good or 15a and 20a for short spells.
How old is the battery and cells used ?
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Sounds much more plausible than the motor not handling the power and cutting out rather than burning out.
If you look back at this thread then you will see it’s a brand new bike , and worked fine but I wanted a lcd3 display and as I was ordering it I got a new controller that’s 15amp, volt , and this ment the only original part was the wheel with the motor in it that was believed to be a Q100 but it may not be and as it was working fine with the 12amp, volt controller, and as I’ve said before if I push the throttle to the max straight off then the motor maid a strange sound and cut out , but if I built the power up slowly then it was fine , so I needed to change something to get the bike to be safe when pulling away from lights or crossing roads and this seems to have solved the problem, that I believe it just could not take the power the controller through at it , I post this to help any one with a benelli foldcity or small 20” wheel bike with a unknown motor with similar problems, it took a long time to get this far and a working bike and if this helps save some time for others then great if any one wants the full list of settings I’ve used then I’m happy to post them , and if you have a better set then please post them as well thanks
Sorry I’ve not had chance to get back out on the bike yet but I’ll post the speed when I do and I’ll have a look at the lcd3 voltage and let you know thanks