KT display questions

UrbanPuma

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 11, 2007
675
43
Hi all,

Is it normal for the LCD3 to show the speed and motor figures winding down when I apply the brakes? The brake indicator comes on when brakes are applied, then I notice those elements counting down to zero. Is this normal?
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
6,814
3,152
Telford
It'll do that if your speed sensor isn't working or if you chose the wrong setting for the speed sensor.

What are you using for a speed sensor?
 

UrbanPuma

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 11, 2007
675
43
It'll do that if your speed sensor isn't working or if you chose the wrong setting for the speed sensor.

What are you using for a speed sensor?
Ah ok. I haven't received the speed sensor yet. I think there's a delay with shipping as most places are showing estimated delivery for June. Thanks Saneagle
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,917
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West Sx RH
My speed reading goes up and down with PAS use and goes down to zero when not peddalling and or braking no matter the setting with my G370 hub.

Wattage figure will go down when braking as power is simply not being applied as it will also do when you hit back EMF or near the cut off speed.
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
6,814
3,152
Telford
My speed reading goes up and down with PAS use and goes down to zero when not peddalling and or braking no matter the setting with my G370 hub.

Wattage figure will go down when braking as power is simply not being applied as it will also do when you hit back EMF or near the cut off speed.
Why don't you fit a speed sensor?
 

UrbanPuma

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 11, 2007
675
43
What about the battery indicator? Mine is registering 27.5/6 (it's flickering between 5 & 6) is this normal or should the battery reading be stable?
 

AGS

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 12, 2023
608
190
I think it depends upon your P5 setting. If it’s zero then it measures real time battery voltage, so that may account for the flickering.

If you set it to one of the smart mode settings then it may be more stable.

I have my P5 = 0 for real time monitoring and I haven’t played around with this setting because it goes from 0 to 40 and I don’t really understand which is the best value to set it at for my 52 volt battery.

The manual says that for a 24 volt battery, smart monitoring should be set between 4 and 11 and for a 36 volt battery it should be set between 5 to 15.

It doesn’t say where to set it for a 48 or 52 volt battery, so I just left mine at 0.
 
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UrbanPuma

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 11, 2007
675
43
I think it depends upon your P5 setting. If it’s zero then it measures real time battery voltage, so that may account for the flickering.

If you set it to one of the smart mode settings then it may be more stable.

I have my P5 = 0 for real time monitoring and I haven’t played around with this setting because it goes from 0 to 40 and I don’t really understand which is the best value to set it at for my 52 volt battery.

The manual says that for a 24 volt battery, smart monitoring should be set between 4 and 11 and for a 36 volt battery it should be set between 5 to 15.

It doesn’t say where to set it for a 48 or 52 volt battery, so I just left mine at 0.
I'll check the settings. Thanks
 

AGS

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 12, 2023
608
190
I have rummaged about and there has been some work done by Rad owners on this issue, which could solve my problem with battery bar accuracy.

They are running 52 volt batteries on KT controllers and have done some tests to conclude that P5 = 25 for best accuracy, so I’m going to try that on my bike.
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
6,814
3,152
Telford
I have rummaged about and there has been some work done by Rad owners on this issue, which could solve my problem with battery bar accuracy.

They are running 52 volt batteries on KT controllers and have done some tests to conclude that P5 = 25 for best accuracy, so I’m going to try that on my bike.
P5 is a simple damping factor. I can't say for certain, but I'm pretty sure that all it does is take a moving average of the battery, like zero is actual voltage, 1 takes the average of two readings 1 second apart, 10 takes ten readings one second apart and averages them, etc. I'm pretty sure it only affects the battery graphic, not the displayed real voltage that you see when you press the power button. The moving average prevents the bars jumping up and down as the voltage keeps changing during operation. The higher the number, the less it changes. If you set it too high, you have to ride half way down the road before you see that you charged the battery, because it will hold the previous value until the first moving average time period elapses.

For a 24v battery, the recommended setting is between 4 and 11, so I'd set it at 8 and see how the display shows it before setting it higher or lower according to my taste.

If you remember the old days when the fuel gauge in your car went up when you turned left or went downhill, and down when you turned right or went uphill, it was not easy to see whether you were down to your last gallon, but now they add an electronic damping factor to it so that it just goes down smoothly. That's what P5 does.

Flickering between 27.5 and 27.6 is because the actual voltage is 27.55, which is half way between. It would be different if it was flickering between 24.0 and 28.0.

There is no ideal setting for P5, and it's irrelevant what anybody else sets theirs to. The actual value you set should be higher if you have a lot of voltage sag. Sag is caused either when you take a high current from individual cells or your cells are getting tired. Therefore if you have a small battery and draw a lot of power from it, you might want to set a higher value for it, but if you have a strong battery and ride around everywhere on level 1, you can set it to zero.
 
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UrbanPuma

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 11, 2007
675
43
P5 is a simple damping factor. I can't say for certain, but I'm pretty sure that all it does is take a moving average of the battery, like zero is actual voltage, 1 takes the average of two readings 1 second apart, 10 takes ten readings one second apart and averages them, etc. I'm pretty sure it only affects the battery graphic, not the displayed real voltage that you see when you press the power button. The moving average prevents the bars jumping up and down as the voltage keeps changing during operation. The higher the number, the less it changes. If you set it too high, you have to ride half way down the road before you see that you charged the battery, because it will hold the previous value until the first moving average time period elapses.

For a 24v battery, the recommended setting is between 4 and 11, so I'd set it at 8 and see how the display shows it before setting it higher or lower according to my taste.

If you remember the old days when the fuel gauge in your car went up when you turned left or went downhill, and down when you turned right or went uphill, it was not easy to see whether you were down to your last gallon, but now they add an electronic damping factor to it so that it just goes down smoothly. That's what P5 does.

Flickering between 27.5 and 27.6 is because the actual voltage is 27.55, which is half way between. It would be different if it was flickering between 24.0 and 28.0.

There is no ideal setting for P5, and it's irrelevant what anybody else sets theirs to. The actual value you set should be higher if you have a lot of voltage sag. Sag is caused either when you take a high current from individual cells or your cells are getting tired. Therefore if you have a small battery and draw a lot of power from it, you might want to set a higher value for it, but if you have a strong battery and ride around everywhere on level 1, you can set it to zero.
Thanks for explaining, Saneagle