Hi, I have ordered a KT controller and have installed it on my ebike, it has a new 48v 20ah battery connected, it powers up great but when connected to the front wheel hub it feels very jerky when the throttle is turned and to be honest it doesn't feel to fast,there's no marking on the wheel so haven't a clue as to the power, however I do have a rear hub motor which I connected it feels a bit smoother but very slow, it says its a 48v 350w hub, any ideas ??
KT controller slow hubs
- Thread starter okmate
- Start date
What if anything have you configured in the controller settings for your motor, Out of the box some expected features may not be enabled until set.. iirc my kt controller was not pas enabled out of the box for example..
and iirc parameter C2 needed attention too.. and when it came to the pas sensor selection my downloaded pdf's chenglish required a trial and error approach cycling through the options.. (10 mins max)
and iirc parameter C2 needed attention too.. and when it came to the pas sensor selection my downloaded pdf's chenglish required a trial and error approach cycling through the options.. (10 mins max)
Ebike Motor Controller 35A KT LCD3 Full Twist Throttle KIT
Ebike Motor Controller 35A KT LCD3 Full Twist Throttle UK Stock Fast Delivery Product details: Support KT LED Control Panel or KT LCD Control Panel or without any Control Panel (Universal)Support 48V Light Control Rated current: 17A Maximum Current: 35A It only applies to hub motors with Hall...
ebikesolution.co.uk
Throttle is a speed control device, so it gives maximum current, which will be jerky, especially at low speed. To avoid it, you need a controller that does current control for the throttle or you need to add a throttle taming device.
Can you give some details for the motor that's too slow. What does that mean. How slow?
The motor has hardly any torque, if the bikes upside down its fairly smooth but doesn't seem very fast flat out, when I sit on the bike the take off is so slow and weak, the front hub is the same but very choppy and slow
Also what power are these motors drawing with the wheel in the air?
If they are drawing more than 100 watts unloaded then the phase combinations maybe wrong.
You can check the power on your display.
And the P1 setting is likely to be very different on your direct drive motor to your geared motor.
If they are drawing more than 100 watts unloaded then the phase combinations maybe wrong.
You can check the power on your display.
And the P1 setting is likely to be very different on your direct drive motor to your geared motor.
P1 affects the motor speed (geared hub) if it isn't set correctly for the motors reduction gearing , for a DD hub it has no reduction gearing the P1 value is also critical.
Go into the settings and see what the P1 value is set to.
Go into the settings and see what the P1 value is set to.
Well it seems thier direct drive as I can hear any resistance and they spin both ways the same
You can read watts on your display.
It would probably be a good idea for you to list your P and C settings so we can see what they are set to.
The front motor is definitely a direct drive and the rear motor is definitely geared. We can tell by the size of them.
What we can’t tell are the number of magnets in each motor and the gear ratio for the rear motor. But your P1 setting for each motor will need to be significantly different for each of them to run properly.
It would probably be a good idea for you to list your P and C settings so we can see what they are set to.
The front motor is definitely a direct drive and the rear motor is definitely geared. We can tell by the size of them.
What we can’t tell are the number of magnets in each motor and the gear ratio for the rear motor. But your P1 setting for each motor will need to be significantly different for each of them to run properly.
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Hi guys, I've done some research today so here's my findings, I found a great YouTube video that shows you how to establish how many magnets are in the hub, all you have to do is put a wire on 2 of the phase wires ,when you turn the wheel you can feel each magnet. Having done the above the rear hub has 86 and front hub 48.
Below are the C &P settings
P1=75
P2=2
P3=1
P4=0
P5=12
C1=00
C2=0
C3=8
C4=0
C5=10
C6=3
C7=0
C8=0
C9=0
C10=N
C11=0
C12=4
C13=0
C14=2
C15=6
Just to note I have a rear hub motor 350w
Front hub motor not sure
Battery is 48v 20AH 40A Bms .
26 inch wheels with fat 26x4.0 tyres,when the bike is upside down and no load the MPH on screen shows 13.6mph, and watts peak at 180w on full acceleration from a stand still
Below are the C &P settings
P1=75
P2=2
P3=1
P4=0
P5=12
C1=00
C2=0
C3=8
C4=0
C5=10
C6=3
C7=0
C8=0
C9=0
C10=N
C11=0
C12=4
C13=0
C14=2
C15=6
Just to note I have a rear hub motor 350w
Front hub motor not sure
Battery is 48v 20AH 40A Bms .
26 inch wheels with fat 26x4.0 tyres,when the bike is upside down and no load the MPH on screen shows 13.6mph, and watts peak at 180w on full acceleration from a stand still
P1 46 or 48 for the front DD hub, then one should see better speed.
Rear hub is geared so P1 84 - 100 on will have to play around with the P1 value and use a GPS to figure the correct speed corrolation with the lcd readout.
Rear hub is geared so P1 84 - 100 on will have to play around with the P1 value and use a GPS to figure the correct speed corrolation with the lcd readout.
Are you doing these tests on pas level 1? You will get more speed on pas level 5 now that you have established the motor isn’t drawing too much power, but keep an eye on the watts when you run up the throttle. 180 watts is ok with the wheel unloaded.
You won’t have 86 magnets on your rear motor, but 86 would be a sensible starting value for P1 when you take into account the gear reduction. You probably have 18 or 20 magnets in the rear.
P2 is unlikely to be 2. I would set it at 1 to begin with for both motors.
The other P and C settings are ok for the time being and can be optimised later when you have a bit more experience with the bike.
You won’t have 86 magnets on your rear motor, but 86 would be a sensible starting value for P1 when you take into account the gear reduction. You probably have 18 or 20 magnets in the rear.
P2 is unlikely to be 2. I would set it at 1 to begin with for both motors.
The other P and C settings are ok for the time being and can be optimised later when you have a bit more experience with the bike.
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