Kit recommendations

[Joef.111]

Hi all, I'm looking to buy a bike and convert it to an e-bike that will be capable of delivering for up to 12 hours. I've decided on a mid drive mainly just incase I do decide to take it on any trails or what-not.
The bike I plan to get is the voodoo bizango from Halfords: https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&categoryId=165499&langId=-1&productId=1378487&storeId=10001
And the motor kit and battery I plan to get from whoosh.
My question is, is there 17ah battery going to be enough? I'm obviously fit enough to do these shifts without any electrical assistance so I will be putting out a fair bit of power myself. If not, where else could a source a reliable, bigger battery from?

Second question is, which of there motors would be the best in this situation.

Thirdly, have many people managed to derestrict these and is it easy enough to do?

Any improvements that can be made to my plan or answer my questions would be greatly appreciated, thanks y'all

 

[minexplorer]

Hi all, I'm looking to buy a bike and convert it to an e-bike that will be capable of delivering for up to 12 hours. I've decided on a mid drive mainly just incase I do decide to take it on any trails or what-not.
The bike I plan to get is the voodoo bizango from Halfords: https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&categoryId=165499&langId=-1&productId=1378487&storeId=10001
And the motor kit and battery I plan to get from whoosh.
My question is, is there 17ah battery going to be enough? I'm obviously fit enough to do these shifts without any electrical assistance so I will be putting out a fair bit of power myself. If not, where else could a source a reliable, bigger battery from?

Second question is, which of there motors would be the best in this situation.

Thirdly, have many people managed to derestrict these and is it easy enough to do?

Any improvements that can be made to my plan or answer my questions would be greatly appreciated, thanks y'all

derestricting the speed limit is pretty easy except i believe on bosch.But the faster you go ,as ive found massively drains the battery.25mph will use twice as much as 13-15mph.

i think you will need a cart for a battery than can deliver 12hrs of continous assistance lol.Dont believe the ranges given on halfords E bikes.Halve them at least,then halve again for 20+mph assistance. They are based on totally flat roads,no chunky mtb tyres, on PAS 1,max 15mph (if you can even get to that on PAS1) ,no head wind and a skinny 8 stone lycra cycalist.

 

[vfr400]

If you want to go fast and you want to go for 12 hours, you'll need more than one battery. The 17Ah battery would do around 40 miles if you turned up the speed to 20 mph and still pedalled quite hard. How many miles do you do in a 12 hour shift?

 

[Joef.111]

If you want to go fast and you want to go for 12 hours, you'll need more than one battery. The 17Ah battery would do around 40 miles if you turned up the speed to 20 mph and still pedalled quite hard. How many miles do you do in a 12 hour shift?

Depends on a lot of variables I guess, I've been speaking to people today who use the same system and they say between 7-9 hours. I realise that faster speeds require a significant amount more energy and unrestricting it will drain the battery a lot more.
So, have many people successfully reprogrammed them to not cut off at 15mph but instead just reduce the power output at around 17mph. Out of the bikes I've tested the feeling of hitting 15mph and having 0 motor assistance isn't nice. Also, would this even be useful and worth while doing?
Secondly, would there be any problems using two different batteries. Perhaps a smaller 11ah chinese battery and switching between the two. Or even better, having both on the bike simultaneously?
Thirdly, could I just go for a hybrid bike and try to build it to be as efficient as possible for road use by sacrificing front suspension, wide tires etc.

 

[vfr400]

It's not good to have two batteries on a bike at the same time. Weight is an enemy to efficiency, and it makes the bike less comfortable to ride. It would be better to store the spare battery somewhere and swap over half way through the shift.

Every 1kg that you add to the weight of the bike requires approximately 1% more energy (effort) to go up any incline. A second battery will add approximately 4kg.

 

[Woosh]

So, have many people successfully reprogrammed them to not cut off at 15mph but instead just reduce the power output at around 17mph. Out of the bikes I've tested the feeling of hitting 15mph and having 0 motor assistance isn't nice. Also, would this even be useful and worth while doing?

the hub motor's winding is usually chosen to give as much torque as possible at low revs while having the top speed cutout (also known as noload speed) above the 15mph but as close to 15mph as possible (typically 19mph).
Even if the bike is derestricted, the motor power will reduce naturally when you go over 15mph and become next to nothing when you come near or over the noload speed.
That's why hub motor is the best choice for deliveroos and explains why I prefer fitting my bikes with hub motors.

 

[minexplorer]

Depends on a lot of variables I guess, I've been speaking to people today who use the same system and they say between 7-9 hours. I realise that faster speeds require a significant amount more energy and unrestricting it will drain the battery a lot more.
So, have many people successfully reprogrammed them to not cut off at 15mph but instead just reduce the power output at around 17mph. Out of the bikes I've tested the feeling of hitting 15mph and having 0 motor assistance isn't nice. Also, would this even be useful and worth while doing?
Secondly, would there be any problems using two different batteries. Perhaps a smaller 11ah chinese battery and switching between the two. Or even better, having both on the bike simultaneously?
Thirdly, could I just go for a hybrid bike and try to build it to be as efficient as possible for road use by sacrificing front suspension, wide tires etc.

i tried my 18amp 350w bbs01 set at 18mph but that sudden drop of assistance is unnatural the same as 15. because the assistance always allows you to keep reaching the cut off whatever it is. the only thing that feels right is totally unrestricted to the top speed your gearing allows. in my case a mtb with 42x13 on flat roads it would reach 23/24 mph road tyres 21/22 chunky tyres. range was only cpl miles better with road tyres.

unrestricted 5 levels PAS(17.4ah batt) id only get typically 27 miles max using PAS4...5 for hills & the last few miles on 1 & 2. once i got 38 range on PAS3...4 for hills ,again 1&2 at lhe end. although unrestricted the lower PAS meant i never exceeded 17-19mph.hence greater economy. but none of that sudden assistance cut off.

i later added a cheap yose power rack battery.wired parallel basically making a 30.4ah 10s11p set up .as dave says it makes the bike a little bit heavier/less wieldy but soon get used to it even off rd mtb ing in cornish mine valleys here.

 

[egroover]

Every 1kg that you add to the weight of the bike requires approximately 1% more energy (effort) to go up any incline. A second battery will add approximately 4kg.

wow, i had no idea it was that much. Am looking to do a couple of big rides soon with carrying 2 spare batteries in panniers bags, so need to factor that in, an extra 8kg and the impact on estimated range