Kirby e bike kit

[saneagle]

OK... good to know.
Same kits can be bought from PSW for little above £300.

With KT? If so, can you provide a link please? KT is a £100 upgrade for a Yose, Woosh or any other kit.

 

[Az.]

With KT? If so, can you provide a link please? KT is a £100 upgrade for a Yose, Woosh or any other kit.

MXUS XF40C Gearless or GDR-19 Gear 48V 1000W electrical bicycle E-bike Motor Wheel Hub Motor Electric Bike Motor Brushless Freewheel

MXUS XF40C Gearless or GDR-19 Gear 48V 1000W electrical bicycle E-bike Motor Wheel Hub Motor Electric Bike Motor Brushless Freewheel

www.pswpower.com

Controllers:

KT kunteng Electric Bicycle Motor ebike Controller 24V 36V 48V 250W 500W 1000W Brushless DC Sine Wave sensor Controller

KT kunteng Electric Bicycle Motor ebike Controller 24V 36V 48V 250W 500W 1000W Brushless DC Sine Wave sensor Controller

www.pswpower.com

 

[Nealh]

Not forgetting with Kirby kit like Woosh , one is getting a battery and UK support should an issue occur. Far easier then dealing with PSWP should an issue arise.

 

[Az.]

Not forgetting with Kirby kit like Woosh , one is gattign a battery and UK support should an issue occur. Far easier then dealing with PSWP should an issue arise.

I included price of 15Ah Samsung battery in £300.

 

[Nealh]

I included price of 15Ah Samsung battery in £300.

Would that be a 768wh 48v battery to compare chips with chips .
Comparisons need to be pretty much exact including p&p, etc etc.

 

[Az.]

Would that be a 768wh 48v battery to compare chips with chips .
Comparisons need to be pretty much exact including p&p, etc etc.

Even with 20Ah Samsung battery and possible import duties it should be cheaper than at Kirby. I never had to pay any import duties though.

 

[Nealh]

Nearly £393 for a similar 48v spec , not quite the £300 though.
For UK price one still ahe the more local CS and easier return as well ( for some ) a 250w rating for the motor .

 

[Nealh]

Not everyone is keen on buying from china or confident in buying seperate kit parts, some for piece of mind who have never bought before would likely prefer UK CS and purchase
So Woosh have one kit competitor who sells a 48v 250w kit , buyers have a choice and if they are happy with the cheaper china offering then they can save a £100 or so.

 

[saneagle]

MXUS XF40C Gearless or GDR-19 Gear 48V 1000W electrical bicycle E-bike Motor Wheel Hub Motor Electric Bike Motor Brushless Freewheel

MXUS XF40C Gearless or GDR-19 Gear 48V 1000W electrical bicycle E-bike Motor Wheel Hub Motor Electric Bike Motor Brushless Freewheel

www.pswpower.com

Controllers:

KT kunteng Electric Bicycle Motor ebike Controller 24V 36V 48V 250W 500W 1000W Brushless DC Sine Wave sensor Controller

KT kunteng Electric Bicycle Motor ebike Controller 24V 36V 48V 250W 500W 1000W Brushless DC Sine Wave sensor Controller

www.pswpower.com

Thanks for the link. I tried ordering one, but it won't let me. I think they're out of stock. It would only let me select to ship from China, but then wouldn't add it to the cart. I then went to their Aliexpress listings, where they were a bit dearer, but all the rear ones are greyed out, and if you select one, the wheel size is greyed out and unselectable. If it was available, a 26" 250w rear cassette motor from China would have been about £170 without tax and handling charges, so worst case would be about £214, which is is a very good price. I would recommend one at that price if they were available.

I'm still a little suspicious because the shipping is normally around £100 for a buit wheel from China.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Thanks for the link. I tried ordering one, but it won't let me. I think they're out of stock. It would only let me select to ship from China, but then wouldn't add it to the cart. I then went to their Aliexpress listings, where they were a bit dearer, but all the rear ones are greyed out, and if you select one, the wheel size is greyed out and unselectable. If it was available, a 26" 250w rear cassette motor from China would have been about £170 without tax and handling charges, so worst case would be about £214, which is is a very good price. I would recommend one at that price if they were available.

I'm still a little suspicious because the shipping is normally around £100 for a buit wheel from China.

You can order 26" rear cassette XF15 to UK from Germany at the suspicious price of £159.14 - does that include the KT controller and display

 

[Az.]

Thanks for the link. I tried ordering one, but it won't let me. I think they're out of stock. It would only let me select to ship from China, but then wouldn't add it to the cart. I then went to their Aliexpress listings, where they were a bit dearer, but all the rear ones are greyed out, and if you select one, the wheel size is greyed out and unselectable. If it was available, a 26" 250w rear cassette motor from China would have been about £170 without tax and handling charges, so worst case would be about £214, which is is a very good price. I would recommend one at that price if they were available.

I'm still a little suspicious because the shipping is normally around £100 for a buit wheel from China.

It does take a while to get used to how they describe and sell things. One rear motor is not available and one will be in stock in Germany around 26 July. If you want something you need to be patient. They run out of stock quite quickly.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

The only downside to the six mosfet desing is over heating if one climbs steep ascents too slowly.

I've had exactly this problem on a series of a series of very long, very steep hills in the North York Moors if I leave it in the highest assist level (and I am not the lightest !)
When I convert my Scott Genius I will use the 9 mosfet one - is this one correct ?

T09S 36V/48V500W 22A KT Sine Wave Controller For ebike [T09S KT 9Mosfers Controller] - $26.04 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

Zen Cart! T09S 36V/48V500W 22A KT Sine Wave Controller For ebike [T09S KT 9Mosfers Controller] - ★★★★★ T09S 36V/48V450W-500W Torque Simulation Sine Wave Controller For ebike 1--Rate Voltage: 36V/48V Compatible 2--Maximum Current:22±1A 3--Low Voltage Protection:DC30±0.5V 4--Speed Set: 1-4.2V...

www.topbikekit.com

Any guidance to the options ? (throttle, pas sensor, etc). I don't think I need a speed sensor or HWBS - whatever that is (with Bafang G020 hub motor). Not sure what the difference is between KT-D12L and KT-V12L PAS sensors.

 

[Ghost1951]

I've had exactly this problem on a series of a series of very long, very steep hills in the North York Moors if I leave it in the highest assist level (and I am not the lightest !)

My BBS01 never gets even warm on climbing three and four hundred foot ascents with as steep as 20% gradients. I'm riding hills like this every other day in summer and rising to 800 and 900 feet above sea level. I am not that heavy - just under 12 and a half stones (174 pounds) and I do put a good effort into the climb myself. I make sure that I am in my lowest gear and typically am drawing about 250 - 300 watts, but its the same at 500 watts. I am climbing at about 8 miles an hour, so the motor is spinning at a high rate and probably running efficiently.

Maybe a heavier rider would need a lower gear to keep the motor in its sweet spot for efficient running.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

My BBS01 never gets even warm on climbing three and four hundred foot ascents with as steep as 20% gradients. I'm riding hills like this every other day in summer and rising to 800 and 900 feet above sea level. I am not that heavy - just under 12 and a half stones (174 pounds) and I do put a good effort into the climb myself. I make sure that I am in my lowest gear and typically am drawing about 250 - 300 watts, but its the same at 500 watts. I am climbing at about 8 miles an hour, so the motor is spinning at a high rate and probably running efficiently.

Maybe a heavier rider would need a lower gear to keep the motor in its sweet spot for efficient running.

Yes, with a hub motor, climbing up steep hills, the motor isn't at its most efficient speed. After the controller overheated a couple of times,I stayed at level 4 assistance and only used level 5 at the steepest points and that seemed to work fine.

When I use my BBS02b mid drive it is better up hills although that is 48v max 25a compared with 48v max 15a for the hub drive.

If I use level 5 on my 6 mosfet controller with hub drive on this hill it will overheat at that bit that approaches 30%. If I use level 4 and save level 5 for the really steep bits it is OK



As you say, I'm 16.5 stone so that does make a difference.

 

[Nealh]

Yes S09S /T09S is the one , my one is SM connectors for easier fault finding.
HWBS is hidden wire brake sensor (these are for wired manual brakes) . One cuts the brake wire and inserts them along the brake line.
D12L is LHS two part PAS (sensor and disc) , V12L is LHS all in one PAS.

 

[Nealh]

Personally I opt for RHS PAS to go behind chain wheel.
If one has the hollowtech BB or similar sram version then a BZ10C PAS is needed.

 

[Ghost1951]

Yes, with a hub motor, climbing up steep hills, the motor isn't at its most efficient speed. After the controller overheated a couple of times,I stayed at level 4 assistance and only used level 5 at the steepest points and that seemed to work fine.

When I use my BBS02b mid drive it is better up hills although that is 48v max 25a compared with 48v max 15a for the hub drive.

If I use level 5 on my 6 mosfet controller with hub drive on this hill it will overheat at that bit that approaches 30%. If I use level 4 and save level 5 for the really steep bits it is OK

View attachment 58800

As you say, I'm 16.5 stone so that does make a difference.

30% gradient is pretty serious stuff for sure. I generally think 15% and 17% is pretty steep.

That mid drive must be a bit naughty in power output with 25 amps at 48 volts. That would be 1.2kw if the battery was fully charged. Mine puts out a max of slightly under 500 watts at peak, and I very rarely go there. I mostly draw about a hundred watts and try to stay below 250.

 

[soundwave]

needs more power

 

[Peter.Bridge]

30% gradient is pretty serious stuff for sure. I generally think 15% and 17% is pretty steep.

That mid drive must be a bit naughty in power output with 25 amps at 48 volts. That would be 1.2kw if the battery was fully charged. Mine puts out a max of slightly under 500 watts at peak, and I very rarely go there. I mostly draw about a hundred watts and try to stay below 250.

Yes - A couple of years ago, I saw a local "advert" on facebook to convert your bike to an e-bike. I had a Boardman 29er Pro hardtail in my garage that I hadn't used for a few years and I thought I would give it a try (this was well before I discovered this forum). The chap is a retired engineer (in his eighties) and I had a go on his mtb hardtail with BBS02B and I came back with a big smile on my face. He converted my Boardman, and I think it was his favourite conversion that he had done.

Only later did I discover this forum and programming the PAS levels and that there were a lot of proponents of hub drives. I thought I would give it a go and converted a Carrera Vulcan, upgraded to hydraulic brakes, upgraded to a torque sensor and power based controller, converted my wife's folding bike and now I have bought a full suspension bike to convert. I still think the Boardman is brilliant but I tend to use the Carrera for roads and light trails (have road tyres, lights, mudguards, panniers, mirror, etc) and keep the Boardman for mountain biking.

I think I went through an initial period of seeing how fast I could go, and how quickly I could get places. I think, as I have got fitter, I am more trying to see how little assistance I need. If I stay within the 15.5 mph +10% cutoff (17mph) assist limit then I don't need much extra assistance apart from steep hills.

If anything, the BBS02 is too powerful, I don't think I really need that much power - could go anywhere with a 48V 15a BBS01. On roads, I just find the hub drive that bit more relaxed to ride, and there is only my own pedal power going through the chain / gears - it doesn't matter so much if I set off in a too high gear as the hub motor assistance will get me going. On the BBS02 changing down gears on a steep hill at the higher power levels is a little "grindy" - may get a gear sensor at some point.

 

[Ghost1951]

Yes Peter, I can sympathise with the gear grinding thing. I try not to cause it to happen, but on occasion, I delay too long in making a downward change when climbing, and end up having to change down under power, so as not to completely stall by pausing pedalling on the hill. Fortunately, the BBS01 is not so powerful as to break anything - so far at least. I hate the brutality of teh chain ripping across the teeth though.

I began the conversion thing, intending to do my own job, and ordered a BBS01 and battery combo on Ebay. The advert promised three day delivery and I had a holiday planned in the Lakes and thought I had just enough time to get the job done and tested before taking the ebike with me. Then the beggars emailed me back and said they were getting ready to post the motor but the battery would be coming in a month. I cancelled the order immediately and eventually got my money back, and I chanced on a guy called Billy Milburn near Durham who was making and selling conversions, usually using second hand decent bikes and the BBSxxx motors. He had about twenty bikes ready built to pick from. Most of his were more powerful than the regulations allow, so I bought a bike from him and I have never ever regretted dealing with him. I have had great fun riding the bike and it has never let me down - though I did once have a problem with the battery going right out of balance over winter.

You have really got the conversion bug by the sound of it with all those conversions under your belt. I feel like you do about the power thing. At first I was riding it in PAS 5 of 5 and burning through the battery. Now, like you, I run it purely as an assist to my own efforts. I generally stay in the low pas levels, mainly PAS2 and have toned down the power input in the controller settings ls so that in PAS2, it stays down at 100 to 125 watts, PAS 3, at 200 to 250 watts, PAS 4, tops out at about 375-400 watts, and PAS5 at 475 watts to maybe 500.

These settings are fine for me, but of course, we are all different and live in different terrains. Your 30% gradient that you showed in a route profile yesterday would be a beast to get up. I might end up pushing up that.