Kalkhoff Groove G7 Display replacement, ideas please

[GBNeil]

Hi folks,
I recently bought the above as my first entry to the joys of pedelectrics. A bit of a project as it currently is not working, but lots of potential. The 36v 250w battery seems ok, 7 speed Shimano Nexus hub, nice. Front brushless, geared & freewheel Bosch? hub motor. Frame, wheels & tyres are good as is general condition. The bike runs great, just no electrical assistance.
Not so good is the display, Groove C950, as shown in pics. Ideally I'd prefer an original, so far no luck finding one, ideas please?

Would anyone know what display could be used as a replacement to include 3 pas modes, walk mode & lights? Not sure if the Controller works, would prefer to stick to the original but obviously happy to replace if necessary.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[Nealh]

You need to show us a pic/make of controller used to try and suggest an lcd, though being Kalkhoff the Groove display can ony be had from them as a spare. SW might find a seller as he can be quite good at finding these closed system sellers.

Otherwise you would have to go non oem and get a new controller/lcd combo.

 

[GBNeil]

I'm guessing the 8fun controller isn't the original, the wiring to the battery looks even worse than my efforts. Not sure if this config ever functioned?

 

[vfr400]

The C950 LCD was used on some of the first BBS01 kits, and I heard of a guy that updated his with a C961. It's probable, therefore, that all the Bafang LCDs are compatible. The C961 costs around £60 from Amazon.

I think that if it were my bike, I'd chuck the entire control system and use a KT controller and LCD kit, which costs around £70. What connector do you have on your motor. is it the standard 9-pin that's around 1 cm diameter?

 

[GBNeil]

The C950 LCD was used on some of the first BBS01 kits, and I heard of a guy that updated his with a C961. It's probable, therefore, that all the Bafang LCDs are compatible. The C961 costs around £60 from Amazon.

I think that if it were my bike, I'd chuck the entire control system and use a KT controller and LCD kit, which costs around £70. What connector do you have on your motor. is it the standard 9-pin that's around 1 cm diameter?

That's it, 9-pin about 1cm diameter sounds right. How would a KT kit improve the original & any KT recommendations please?
Thanks so much for all the input from everyone, greatly appreciated

 

[vfr400]

You can get the KT controller, LCD, PAS, speed sensor and throttle as a complete kit from here. You probably won't need the speed sensor, but best to get it just in case:

24V/36V 250W 6Mosfets 15A Brushless DC Sine Wave Controller - PSWPOWER.com

www.pswpower.com

The only problem you might have is pulling all the cables through. On similar bikes, I had to remove the gear and brake cables to get the electrical ones through, then reinstall them.

The KT controllers give very smooth operation, quieten the motor, five levels of assist and power control on the pedal assist rather than the more normal speed control.

 

[GBNeil]

I'd appreciate any suggestions for a cheap plug in led/lcd to give me an idea if the other components play together & what the bike is like with minimal effort
The display is 6 pin, that should restrict the choice nicely.
Thanks for any ideas!

 

[vfr400]

The C961 and C963 both have 6 pins.

C961/C963/C965 LCD for Bafang BBS Central Motor LCD C961

BaFang C961/C963/C965 LCD Display for Bafang BBS Central Motor

bmsbattery.com

 

[GBNeil]

Right so I now have a working battery, only the 2 x 15a internal fuses needed replacing, so top result!

I'd still like to test my 9pin Bafang BLDC 36v front hub motor before investing in new KT gear.

I'd like to bypass the non working LCD, does anyone know which of the following need jumping:

orange (red), purple , black , white , brown , green

Thanks for any help!

 

[GBNeil]

You can get the KT controller, LCD, PAS, speed sensor and throttle as a complete kit from here. You probably won't need the speed sensor, but best to get it just in case:

24V/36V 250W 6Mosfets 15A Brushless DC Sine Wave Controller - PSWPOWER.com

www.pswpower.com

The only problem you might have is pulling all the cables through. On similar bikes, I had to remove the gear and brake cables to get the electrical ones through, then reinstall them.

The KT controllers give very smooth operation, quieten the motor, five levels of assist and power control on the pedal assist rather than the more normal speed control.

So I've been using the bike as a bike up 'til recently when I bought a complete kit:
KT36/48SVPR-GP01F6 controller, KT-LCD3 display, thumb throttle & PAS. I also bought a 9pin extension.
I fitted the PAS but have disconnected it as the motor is having problems. The LCD3 works fine but the motor just nudges the wheel forward a bit when I apply throttle and it's off the ground. If I spin the wheel back and then throttle the motor will nudge the wheel forward a few inches.
Perhaps the hall sensors are being triggered in the wrong sequence? The motor is a Bafang SWXK 36V 250W but the bike is from Kalkhoff, could the controller & motor sensor wiring be different? I suppose the sensors may not be working? I have tried to press the 9pin extension in firmly at both ends but?
I'm thinking of trying different combinations of the hall sensor wires, probably by sacrificing the extension cable.
Any thoughts appreciated!

 

[vfr400]

The first thing is to list all your settings in the LCD. Recently, we had one set to the wrong phase angle.

 

[GBNeil]

Ok:
25KMH, 700C, KM
P1 = 80, P2 = 6, P3 = 0, P4 = 1, P5 = 00
C1 = 01, C2 = 0, C3 = 1, C4 1, C5 = 10, C6 = 3, C7 = 0, C8 = 0, C9 = 0, C10 = n, C11 = 0, C12 = 4, C13 = 0, C14 = 2

Thanks for the quick reply!

 

[vfr400]

P2 is set to 6. Did you do that? have you got 6 magnets in your motor for the speed sensor? If not, the speed calculated will be 6 times as much and if you have your speed limit set to 15 mph, the motor will cut at 2.5 mph or as soon as the magnet passes the sensor.

P3 should be set to 1 for current control
P4 should be zero if you want the throttle to be independent
P5 should be around 15 to use the battery indicators as a fuel gauge
C1 depends on which pedal sensor you have
C2 is normally zero, but if all else fails, try other values
C4=1 limits the throttle to 4 mph, which is another reason your motor might be cutting early, especially if it's calculating 6 times the speed from P1 . set to zero for full-range independent throttle.
I'd set C12 to 6 to protect the battery. It changes the cut-off from 40v to 41v

The rest look OK. In summary, with P1 set to 6 when it should be 1 and your throttle set to 4 mph, the motor will be cut off at 4/6= 0.66 mph.

 

[GBNeil]

Thanks vfr400!

I'll change the parms to:

25KMH, 700C, KM
P1 = 80, (motor reduction ratio 1:4.42, 20 magnet poles, so 4 * 20 = 80?) , P2 = 1, P3 = 1, P4 = 0, P5 = 15
C1 = 01 (8 magnet sensor), C2 = 0, C3 = 1, C4 = 0, C5 = 10, C6 = 3, C7 = 0, C8 = 0, C9 = 0, C10 = n, C11 = 0, C12 = 6, C13 = 0, C14 = 2
I'm unsure about P1, I've seen 2P 20 magnets but is it rounded down?

I'll change these asap, hopefully tomorrow.

Thanks for the huge help!

 

[Nealh]

p1

 

[Nealh]

The true P1 value may be 80 - 88 for the speed reading accuracy.
P1 adjusts the speed read out accuracy, you need a separate GPS to verify the lcd speed reading. Start with a 25km/h setting in the first set of basic parameters to change ie, before you enter P settings. Adjust P1 up by value of 1 if the speed read out is lower then GPS or down by the same value if it is higher.

P2/1.

 

[GBNeil]

Thanks vfr400!

I'll change the parms to:

25KMH, 700C, KM
P1 = 80, (motor reduction ratio 1:4.42, 20 magnet poles, so 4 * 20 = 80?) , P2 = 1, P3 = 1, P4 = 0, P5 = 15
C1 = 01 (8 magnet sensor), C2 = 0, C3 = 1, C4 = 0, C5 = 10, C6 = 3, C7 = 0, C8 = 0, C9 = 0, C10 = n, C11 = 0, C12 = 6, C13 = 0, C14 = 2
I'm unsure about P1, I've seen 2P 20 magnets but is it rounded down?

I'll change these asap, hopefully tomorrow.

Thanks for the huge help!

Thanks Nealh.

Unfortunately these changes didn't help the just nudge a bit forward problem.

I changed P2 = 6 again as the display speed was 6x too high.

 

[vfr400]

Thanks Nealh.

Unfortunately these changes didn't help the just nudge a bit forward problem.

I changed P2 = 6 again as the display speed was 6x too high.

Now you have to go through the motor phase and hall wire combinations until it works. You can't always connect colour to colour.

 

[Nealh]

A chart to follow, only 3 or 4 will work properly.

 

[GBNeil]

Thanks for all the help. Waiting on connectors currently.

In the meantime any recommendations for a cheap non hall sensor (or switchable) controller to
let me test the motor?

Cheers