K LCD3 Controller stuck!

[roscop]

News: I've tried to disconnect the plug that goes to the motor then turn on the LCD and I have a full battery indicator! When I reconnect the motor with the LCD ON after a few seconds I have the error message 3, meaning " Motor Hall Signal Abnormality" and battery goes to empty again.
Gew04 do you have the same?

So after all maybe this is a failure from mu Q128C motor?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It's unlikely to be a problem with the motor. Check that the motor connector is all the way to the line at the motor and controller ends of the cable. If it's not that, the problem is on the 5v rail somewhere, so it could be throttle, PAS or brake.

 

[anotherkiwi]

So unplug the motor cable, do a factory reset on the LCD and plug it back in again (with the arrows correctly aligned).

What did that do?

 

[roscop]

I've tried both D8veh and Anotherkiwi suggestion and still the empty battery sign...

But, Caroline from BMSBATTERY replied and they just shipped a new integrated controller to me. I'm kind of impressed by their support.

 

[roscop]

Hi !
I replaced the controller and the BMS that BMSBATTERY sent me but still the same issue : An empty gauge showing up on the LCD3, and the bike not moving

So now there are only 2 possibilities left for the source of the failure:
1- The LCD3 is dead and reporting some inconsistent data
2- The motor Q128C is dead or damaged

Is there any guide on how to open the Motor? Should I do it? Any recommandation is welcome!

Thanks

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I would say that the problem is more likely in the cable than the motor.

First, check where the cable comes out of the motor for damage. Next, answer the question: Did you pull your cable-ties so tight that you damaged the wire inside the insulation?

If both of those are negative, try connecting the controller motor connector directly to the motor, i.e. leave out the intermediate part.

I got the same problem as you yesterday. When I looked, the motor had become disconnected. It must have caught on something when I wheeled the bike out of my porch.

 

[roscop]

Ok I now know for sure that it is a damage cable just before coming out of the motor so I can't resolder it without opening the motor...

Is it possible to open a Q128c motor? any tips or experience to share? I've tried to use a hub puller but is almost as it is all solder together nothing moves

thanks

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It's tricky. You don't need special tools, but it's very difficult to get the cable back through the axle and you have nine wires to join inside the motor.

To get the motor apart, remove one of the three 5mm screws. Insert a short 5mm bolt with a large washer under it. Heat pump the hub with a hot air gun, then whack the side plate round using a hammer and screwdriver on the bolt head. Draw a pencil line over the joint so you can see movement. Once it's moved an inch, you can unscrew it by hand.

 

[roscop]

Ok I have to try,
Just to be sure, the idea is to apply heat, remove one of the 3 screws an replace it with something that pops out so I can wack it from the side with a hammer to force a rotation that will detach the sealed disk lid?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Yes that's it. It's not sealed, but can be a bit tight.

 

[Albi]

Hi there! Sorry for warming up an old issue. I have the same issue with my LCD. It is called kt-lcd3, but I believe that is only as from a different reseller...
Turning on is showing 3 numbers, one blinking. I scrolled through the menu yesterday and guess it is the password under C9 what might have been activated. I cannot enter it however. Middle button just goes from one digit to the next and starts with first over, up/down change numbers. I didn't change the pw, but I am stuck now I this setting.
@gew04 did you find a solution?

 

[Albi]

I uploaded my problem to YouTube...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It does indeed look like the password option is set. There's no default password, but I guess it starts on 555. Try 666. If that doesn't work, you'll have to go through all 99 combinations. The only way to get rid of the password is to use the special parameter copying method for which you need a cable and an LCD with the correct parameters. Here's the cable:

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/603-copy-wire-for-s-series-display-meter-ebike-kit.html

It's just a cable with 2 LCD connectors and the Tx and Rx wires crossed over. Also, it has a battery voltage wire and a ground spliced in to power both LCDs. There's an explanation about how to copy the parameters in the LCD manual, which you can find if you use Google, or download it from the listing on the BMSBattery site.

 

[Albi]

THX d8veh. However I do not know how to enter or register the pw. Meaning, when I have the right numbers e.g. 555 or 666 with middle button it just goes back to first digit, pressing long is shutting the LCD off...
If correct pw, would it just unlock to normal screen, when I press middle button?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I don't know. I've never used the password and the manual isn't clear. I think, while the numer is flashing, you can use the up and down to adjust it, then a short press of the power button to go to the next digit, and finally a short press of the power button when you get the last digit.

 

[Albi]

Was just trying out all 111-999 then 000 to 100, than 500-550 and then it unlocked ))
So it always starts with 555 first digit blinking. If your pw is 551 dial 2x enter 4x down and 1x enter voila normal screen.

Thanks for your anticipation

 

[rich_r]

Now go into the settings menu and set C9 to 0 to turn off the password function...

 

[Albi]

Yes... The first I did.
But there you see the issue with Chinese menus. The translation is this time ok, but it is not showing the details which are not comment sense...