Thanks for that......not too sure how old this one is, I'm guessing there must be a number on it somewhere, that will give year of manufacture ?.......
Just Bought This......
- Thread starter Del 80
- Start date
I know because I had to fix a couple of them, and I'm pretty sure we've had at least two on this forum who asked about it too after their freewheels became too free. All you need is 3 in 1 oil to fix it if you don't leave it too long. It's a bit weird because I've used the same freewheels on my bikes and so have many other forum members, but the problem only seems to manifest itself on Pendletons that have exactly the same freewheeel. Maybe women don't treat their bikes with enough love and kindness, unless anyone can make a better explanation.
You can see what you have when you take the wheel off. Take the axle nut and washer off and take a photo of the middle of gear cluster and axle if you're not sure.
Dropper post here(Mr Modern )Drop the post-swing leg over then up pops the post again back to set height. Easy peasy
My daughters month and date is stamped under the bottom bracket as part (I think) of the serial number (7 2017 if I can recall)
Well, I have established, from watching the video above, and also due to the fact that it has it stamped on it it, that I have a Freewheel, rather than a cassette..........also I have discovered that the bike was manufactured in 2018......now, which removal tool do I need ?
.........
.........Well, you need a freewheel tool with a big hole over 12mm dia right through. You can see the spline, but it's not clear from your photo how far down it is. The tool needs to reach it and go in more than 1 cm. You can use any one that meets those requirements. Unfortunately most don't. If you get stuck, I think I have one I can send you for £3 plus postage.
Maybe a little clearer, but not much......the splines go all the way down, also, as well as saying Freewheel on it, it says RunRace......or SunRace or something, hard to read, it may or may not be significant........
that's not a deep one like DNP, so you don't need a long tool, but if you find one, get it because you can use a long one on all freewheels forever after.
That's the two new spokes fitted, and the existing one's tightened up, just about to re-assemble the freewheel, and put the wheel back in the bike......first time I've done this, but couldn't be easier really......thoroughly enjoyed the entire operation !!...........
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I'm glad you enjoyed it because you might have to do it again. 13g spokes are notorious for breaking because they don't keep tension so easily. If yours broke because of poor maintenance and/or an impact, you'll be OK, but if another one breaks, it's best to rebuild the wheel with 14g spokes.
Thanks for that......Yes, I hear what you are saying, and will be keeping a close eye on the spokes.......
- @Del 80 - congrats on fixing the spokes issue and I know how satisfying it is to get these things mastered - wheel building next?
- The first ebike in our family was an ePendleton for my wife - didn't know a hub motor from ...... well, I knew nothing about ebikes then (summer 2020)
- The Pendleton Somerby motor is a cadence sensing system and TBH she/we didn't like it much so I got my schoolcap out of hibernation, joined this forum and 3 years on I'm somewhat wiser about things (but defo a dullard compared to many around here ).
- In this link HERE I describe how I changed the Pendleton controller to improve the ride experience - so now you've whetted your skills on the spokes ....?
- The Somerby was a bit too big for my wife but she enjoyed the step-thru frame and ebike experience so I found a pristine used Pendleton Blossomby for £100, a very similar bike but smaller frame and 26" wheels, and fitted a TSDZ2 motor to it, swapped out the derailleurs for hub gears and she loves it.
- Enjoy your bike and all that follows.
Looking at your photo above, your freewheel has a large 34 tooth sprocket. The DNP freewheel on my daughters bike has a 32 tooth. One advantage of this slightly smaller 32 tooth sprocket is that there is just about enough room with slight bending of the spoke to replace the spokes on the freewheel side as well as the other side (no disk as V brakes) without removing wheel or deflating the tyre. (as they normally break at the j bend). I must of replaced the spokes nearly a dozen times on my daughters pendleton. In the end, I could do this in ten minutes.
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Do you mean without removing the tyre as surely you'd need to deflate to get the nipple end of the spoke in?
No need to deflate in this case (break at j bend) where you are replacing the 13g broken spoke with another 13g spoke. You reuse the existing 13g nipple. But you do have to be careful that the nipple does not fall into the cavity on some rims by either putting a bit of tape on it and putting into 12 o clock position.
Note that with single wall wheel rims (often found on older and budget bikes), you need to deflate the tyre if turning the nipples to tighten spokes.(as there will be friction between the spoke head slot and the rim tape and tube that can cause a puncture)
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