I've only gorn and dunnit !

I've been searching for a particular bike for about 4 years. In a post around 3 weeks ago, someone mentioned a recumbent they had bought. Out of curiosity I googled it to see what it was like. Up came e-bay and lo and behold the 3rd picture along was the bike I'd been looking for. Serendipity or what?

I contacted the seller, offered the asking price - less than half new price- and went to meet him at a BHP racemeet on sunday.

Having been assured that I would embarass myself on first ride, I faced it with some trepidation. However I tested it with no incident and was told I'm a natural!

So, here's the bike:

 

 

New seat cover is on order, meanwhile there's a few things to deal with.

First, I've had to shorten the boom to suite my little legs and, as you can see, I need to shorten the chain. I've found 3 speed links in the chain, 2 of them 25 links apart.

Here's the type of link:

So, ignoring the surface rust, can this type of link be removed without destruction, what are they called? I do have a link remover but it's many years since I used it, may need a refresher course.

The chain is sitting on the middle front ring and rear 4 of 7. How many links do you think need removing?

 

 

The kit is a horrible Dillenger pancake and is not going to stay. It's 48v and, I suspect, a direct drive which is probably not going to be suitable for the Welsh hills around here. There is no torque bracket and, not sure, but I don't see a torque washer. It may also not be fully seated in the dropout.

Once I get further along I will be looking for a 36v rear wheel hub that's legal, high torque and preferably silver.

 

I've tried to remove the battery from it's cradle so far with no success. Does anyone know the trick?

There is a lever under the front but this just feels loose with no 'mechanical' feel to it.

 

Lastly - this horrible little mirror. When riding it's actually very low down, probably stuck with the location. It's only about 2" across and needs to be bigger. Obviously can't use a bar end 'cos of the gear change. Found some alternatives but not sure. Any suggestions gratefully recieved.

can this type of link be removed without destruction, what are they called?

 

Those missing links:

 

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/kmc-missing-link-pair-silver

 

 

...can be difficult to remove, without one of these:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374451896770?hash=

 

 

...or these with longer handles:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133665563537?epid=

 

 

The pliers need a lot of force sometimes to close, in order to disconnect the links - I cover the handles with a towel.

The quick link(We call them quick links, not sure where this missing link descript came in from) and i only mention this as googling the right thing makes getting a good price a lot easier.

 

I digress.

Quick link pliers are a god send./ Spent 3 hours trying to get the link to open without a pair and had to give up until a pair of the pliers arrived in the post. Job then done is seconds, and now one of my favourite tools, given that it works and makes the job its designed for super easy.

I use a thin nylon cord to release them.

 

Here are a few ways to do it without the tool.

 

I've tried to remove the battery from it's cradle so far with no success. Does anyone know the trick?

 

Doesn't the battery simply slide forward, after being unlocked? In that position, perhaps water ingress has caused the mechansm to seize up through corrosion?

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7wv1fsemSY:170

not sure where this missing link descript came in from

 

It's a more evocative name I suppose, makes me think of Lucy:

 

https://www.nature.com/scitable/knowledge/library/lucy-a-marvelous-specimen-135716086/

Edited April 11, 20233 yr by guerney

Thanks guys. I've ordered lucy quick link and some pliers, nicked a metal coathanger from the wife's wardrobe to make a chain hook.

On the battery, the seller tells me it was always stiff, just don't want to break it. Think I'll be getting the ptfe spray out.

However it's blowin a hooly out there at the moment so I'm staying next to my mug of tea.

Think I'll be getting the ptfe spray out.

 

Is that electrically conductive?

 

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/sorted.44724/

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WD-40-Specialist-400ml-Performance-Lubricant/dp/B006UCKE1M/ref=

Got the battery out but, life's a pig sometimes innit, couldn't get it back in. Quick cleanup and a bit of ptfe lube eventually sorted it. I do find that things are easier to use when you know how they're meant to work

As far as I know it's not conductive, it's silicone based. However didn't go near the contacts.

 

Must say I'm not a fan of this battery cradle. The electrical connection is a two pin plug/socket arrangement that engages as the pack slides onto the cradle.

My batteries utilise anderson power poles and I like the very positive manual engagement.

Also the cable going to the controller is a double insulated two core about the size of a lighting flex. Doesn't seem big enough to me.

The forum has a new 'Bent ' rider .

Yup. After 65 years of upwrong riding it's gonna take some getting used to. I'm hoping it'll remove the neck and wrist strain and enable me to travel further without the detriment to my nether regions.

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/bike-blog/2018/feb/16/does-cycling-really-damage-mens-sexual-organs

[...] direct drive ... is probably not going to be suitable for the Welsh hills around here [...] I will be looking for a 36v rear wheel hub that's legal, high torque and preferably silver.

Welcome to the fold, there's no turning back ;-> so yes a good mirror helps.

 

Woosh has a DGW22C kit that ticks all the above plus it has the consistent climbing power of 48V, and the Dillenger can be a second battery. It's what I use on my SMGT. For the north downs this motor weight seems like the sweet spot between climbing ability and resistance to overheating versus appetite for batteries and affecting handling.

 

https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits#dwg22c-48v-kit

 

Re the chain, with it on 'big, big' and pulling the derailleur tight you should have at least 2 links to spare, any less can wreck the derailleur. Then note down the combos that work comfortably on the stand, because the derailleur probably won't have enough range to cope with them all.

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/bike-blog/2018/feb/16/does-cycling-really-damage-mens-sexual-organs

I find that I am rarely, if ever, out of the saddle when riding assisted. It's this, combined with the narrowness of the saddle, that seems to cause a variety of numbness/tingling/soreness. which changes from ride to ride. Hopefully sitting in a much wider seat with some body weight taken by the backrest and leg weight forward of the body centre line will aleviate this.

Added to that there will be no weight on my wrists or 'road shocks' transferring to my neck (there's always the pothole/bump you didn't see coming and are not loosened for).

The street machine is full sus with no discernable bob, though I haven't ridden it in anger yet.

Am I doing a good sales job here?

This folks is confirmation bias in action.

Welcome to the fold, there's no turning back ;-> so yes a good mirror helps.

 

Woosh has a DGW22C kit that ticks all the above plus it has the consistent climbing power of 48V, and the Dillenger can be a second battery. It's what I use on my SMGT. For the north downs this motor weight seems like the sweet spot between climbing ability and resistance to overheating versus appetite for batteries and affecting handling.

 

https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits#dwg22c-48v-kit

 

Re the chain, with it on 'big, big' and pulling the derailleur tight you should have at least 2 links to spare, any less can wreck the derailleur. Then note down the combos that work comfortably on the stand, because the derailleur probably won't have enough range to cope with them all.

Thanks Anthony, great info. Just waiting for quick links and pliers.

Got any info on a good mirror. Current one is very low down, but I guess that's just where it has to be.

Finally got the bike on an improvised stand. Ran the motor up and found that it's registering 50kph in setting 9 Don't know how accurate that is but, even if only 10% out, that's scary. This motor has got to go. It has no markings and is a big, black 9" dinner plate, bit too obvious for me even around the back lanes.

Also found the back brake was binding. So - the fun begins.

bit too obvious for me even around the back lanes.

I dont think thats a problem, or even obvious to plod. For years hub motors were always big. It's likely only going to present an issue if you overtake a plod-mobile on the motorway.

Thing is, with the state of a lot of the roads around here, even 25kph is too fast. Especially on loose and slimy surfaces.

Starting with the seat upright I could listen and look round so I took the mirrors off. As the seat goes lower looking back involves an elaborate squirm, following traffic thinks "WT..." and gives me a wide berth - who needs mirrors? The wrong glasses can get in the way though so I ought to try a Zefal Dooback 2 on a bar end, to begin with.

New ventisit seat pad arrived today and feels good. Tempted to try a short ride but discovered that the front disc is horribly worn. So, new disc but, oh bugger, it's a centre lock and I'm waiting on the special key, from the previous owner, for the dynamo axle.

This bike is providing a whole bunch of new experiences before I even get it on the road.

So, the Son dynamo is a through axle or bolt with a very wierd unique shaped nut which I'm not sure I trust that much. The socket the previous owner sent me has a very small stress crack in it and I can see it failing.

Does anyone know what these things are called? Can I replace it with something more standard. The bike's never going to be out of site so security isn't a biggy with this.

Otherwise utube showed me how to get the disc off (I had the right tool:cool:) and a new one and pads are on their way.

This is turning into a saga.

Got the chain links today, still waiting for the tools.

Got a nice new shimano centre lock disc for the front. But, oh bugger, it's 180mm not 160 (no bad thing I suppose), so just ordered an adaptor. New pads on their way.

Very bright flashing twin rear light fitted to the top of the seat bucket - should get me seen.

Nasty twist together and taped dynamo wiring fettled and heatshrunk.

 

All this just to get it roadworthy, haven't even started on the kit yet. From what I've seen so far I'll be starting a new thread for that.

Took the bike out to Pembrey Park today. Midweek so hardly anyone around and plenty of empty carparks to hoon around in.

I learned that I'm not yet safe to be on open roads, some of the wobbles were quite pronounced.

Also the bars were slighty off centre meaning my left leg was rubbing on my thumb.

Whilst doing figure of eights and various slow manouvering around carparks I discovered that the handling is a bit wierd. It will bank over nicely then reach a certain point where it will suddenly want to fall into the curve.

The Dillinger kit really has to go. I used it on setting 1 only to keep things within sane, however a quick blip of the throttle has it up to 40kph way to quickly and is scary when your bum is only 2ft off the floor.

The Dillinger kit really has to go. I used it on setting 1 only to keep things within sane, however a quick blip of the throttle has it up to 40kph way to quickly and is scary when your bum is only 2ft off the floor.

 

Crumbs. Is it this kit?

 

https://dillengerelectricbikes.co.uk/collections/off-road-kits/products/premium-offroad-electric-bike-kit