It has started already.

[Croxden]

I have commented many times on these pages how I dislike derailleur gears and the reason I chose Rohloff on my other bike.


There are over 6000 miles and only an oil change and still going as new.


The new bike (Haibike XDuro all mtn pro) has just over 400 miles and it encouraged me to walk home today as the chain broke.


To be fair, the Rohloff chain is a bigger piece of kit in comparison but I still expected better than this. The bike is designed to do much more than I am ever going to do with it; I have increased my dislike up a notch.


I say 400 miles, the Nyon display doesn't show the total, and I have added the daily amount to get this. It does show on the computer the total but it has now stopped communicating with it. I like the idea of the Nyon but could have been executed better and tested before put on sale. I had an update a couple of weeks ago, perhaps that has done it in.


All told the bike should have been brilliant but I am beginning to doubts on the reliability. It also seems the front brake pads are worn out too. They work well but the lever is now touching the grip.


When I had this bike, I did think of the mountain version of the Delite but always fancied a Haibike. Would have save me a shilling or two had I done so.


In its favour, it does have more go in it, a longer range and easier to pedal none assisted, except when the chain falls off. I think the back of the garage beckons.

 

[flecc]

I'm also a hub gear fan, but the advent of powerful crank drives has given most of them problems of shorter life too.

Only the Rohloff seems able to measure up to the demands, but at a price that limits it to high end bikes. There's many e-bikes that cost less than just the Rohloff hub gear.
.

 

[martin@onbike]

Hi Croxden,
Please don't give up on your Haibike!
Bring it in at your convenience and I'll sort it all out for you...we can revert back to Intuvia from Nyon if you prefer it as well.

 

[KirstinS]

I'm also a hub gear fan, but the advent of powerful crank drives has given most of them problems of shorter life too.

Only the Rohloff seems able to measure up to the demands, but at a price that limits it to high end bikes. There's many e-bikes that cost less than just the Rohloff hub gear.
.

Hi flecc

Sure this is true of nexus hubs and even the alfine 11

But the alfine 8 is bombproof

Do you experiece of crank drives wearing out these too ? Fair enough if so but I am surprised

 

[flecc]

Hi flecc

Sure this is true of nexus hubs and even the alfine 11

But the alfine 8 is bombproof

Do you experiece of crank drives wearing out these too ? Fair enough if so but I am surprised

No, not the Alfine 8 as yet, but in fact the Alfine name is a system one. The hub gear in the system is apparently the latest upgrade of the Nexus hub, so even the newer Nexus hubs should be better as well.

There were two earlier Nexus versions, the first failed very quickly on unpowered bikes and was quickly withdrawn. The second version, a quick upgrade, ran for a while in parallel with the third upgrade one, but I don't think that's any longer the case.

My mention of hub gear troubles was brand generic, since Shimano and SRAM have both suffered with crank drive stresses on various models.
.

 

[Lumos]

I am pretty sure I went through the first set of front pads on the AMT Pro in a month, although you can adjust them for bite point. I was tempted over to the sintered side which lasted longer but did not have the great feel of the organics. There is no getting around the fact the the 11 speed cassettes have a narrow spacing requiring a narrow chain. Having said that I have not heard of one breaking before. I am pretty safe from that risk as I carry a spare link, a chain breaker and the tool to undo the joiner link. Thus mine will never break. Having said that I am off the road with more transmission problems. In the dry these bikes are awesome. Luckily England is arid so rain, mud and dirt is nothing that we have to worry about.

 

[Croxden]

Back home, on inspection the chain parted because the split link had come apart. I found one half only.


I managed to buy from our local bike shop (that shares with his photo business) a packet of two KMC Missing link at a retail price of £11:50.

I though it dear but looking on the net that is the price for the 11 speed ones.


It said on the packet that a tool would be required to fit it. They were right. I tried all ways and normally have always managed. So more expense of ordering the tools.


At least if it is hard to get it together it should stay put. I don't know what the original one was, I can only think it became undone when the chain rubs up against the Heath Robinson jockey wheel guide Haibike have included.

 

[EddiePJ]

Sorry to hear this Croxton. Disappointment is never a nice feeling.

I am off the road with more transmission problems.

If I may ask, what transmission problems.?



.

 

[mfj197]

Sorry to hear of your misfortune. A tool for fitting a KMC Missing Link? I had no problems pulling mine taught. Maybe it's because it was part of the chain and I undid it first (which also didn't need a tool). It's done a little over 300 miles in a week and a half - I'll let you know how it fares with serious mileage. I'm impressed with ease of use though.

 

[RobF]

The tool can be needed to open a missing link, but they usually snap together by hand.

A good tip is to use the cranks to snap the link home.

Push it together as much as you can by hand, then carefully wind the chain so the link is about half way along the top run of the chain.

Using your hand to jerk the cranks down a couple of times will usually make the link snap shut.

There is a tip should you ever need to open a quick link which is stiff.

Set the part of the chain with the link on one of the cassette cogs so that the link sits proud.

This should give you a little triangle of chain with the quick link at the apex.

Clout the link with a rock/hammer and it should pop open.

 

[Croxden]

The tool can be needed to open a missing link, but they usually snap together by hand.

A good tip is to use the cranks to snap the link home.

Push it together as much as you can by hand, then carefully wind the chain so the link is about half way along the top run of the chain.

Using your hand to jerk the cranks down a couple of times will usually make the link snap shut.

There is a tip should you ever need to open a quick link which is stiff.

Set the part of the chain with the link on one of the cassette cogs so that the link sits proud.

This should give you a little triangle of chain with the quick link at the apex.

Clout the link with a rock/hammer and it should pop open.

The tools came today, that's quick service from Chain Reaction Cycles and the best price on the net.

I tried that trick and many more, I have never failed to manage before but decided to do what they advised as the chain does seem frail compare to my more reliable other bike. I'll have a go this evening, so if the air turns blue, you will know I'm having my usual run of luck.

 

[EddiePJ]

Here you go Croxden.

 

[Croxden]

Thanks Eddie, I did a silly thing. I blame old age, to replace the lost roller i took one from another chain. It looked the same but was slightly wider. From a ten speed I suppose, so I ground a bit off and it all went together. I have two new tools I have put safe so next time I wont be able to find them.

The Aldi bike stand came in useful for this task and while I was at it I checked the front pads. Darn't go out on it now as there is little left of the friction material. I put the Intuvia display on to check how many miles I have done. 410 miles.
This is going to be an expensive bike to run, over 5000 on the Delite on the same routes. I must say they do work well though.

 

[Lumos]

Sorry to hear this Croxton. Disappointment is never a nice feeling.



If I may ask, what transmission problems.?



.

Bearings in the motor. It has been sent back to Bosch. Literally gone to meet its maker.

 

[JohnCade]

Bearings in the motor. It has been sent back to Bosch. Literally gone to meet its maker.

But be reborn like Lazarus you hope.

Is this one of the generation of motors which they replace automatically because of its design fault?

 

[Lumos]

No, this is one of the gen 2 performance line motors. Ironically my wife's gen 1 classic Haibike/Bosch has never given a moment's problem. Mine has made 6 unscheduled dealer visits. I hate to think that it might be all the washing I give my bike. I would have hoped that sealed bearings were, er, sealed.

 

[Croxden]

Someone said on these pages the other day "Should have gone to Specsavers".


It seems me too, I said I had looked and saw the front brake pads were worn out. My replacements came and I find when I removed them they are not worn at all.


Believe me though; the chain had parted so I've not totally gone senile.


I don't know why the brake lever is hitting the bars, there is a wheel adjuster but that has taken up as much as it can.


Seems a trip to OnBike is called for, but a service and MOT is due on Monday. I expect little change from a lot of money.

 

[Lumos]

I have removed and refitted the pads so many times on my AMT Pro. The pad spreader on the pads curls round the pad surface and looks like the pad is almost down to the rivets. In fact there is more pad the other side of the spring.
There are two adjustments on the brake lever. The wheel adjuster UNDER the lever blade is the reach adjuster. You want the contact adjuster right where the hose exits the lever. Of course it may just need bleeding and any bike shop would do it in a few minutes.