Issue with my cyclotricity revolver which wont switch on.

[Andrew Brown]

I have a Cyclotricity Revolver and it wont switch on. Its about 4 to 5 years old and I got it 2nd hand and hacve had it two and half years and use it fairly infrequently. It held charge and I get about 40 to 50 miles out of its 14 KWH battery. So I have charged it until the charger light turns green but the bike wont switch on. have detached and reattached the connectors and checked everything . Cyclotricity say I should get the battery tested at a car shop or a bike shop. Tqwo bike shops and one car shop have declined with various excuses.
What about a multimeter could I safely do that and what is involved. Also could it be a fuse / resetting issue ? The battery was kept well charged and likely has not been charged more than a hundred or so times in its lifespan so total failure would be a great disappointment

Any advice would be really helpful thanks in advance

 

[Nealh]

Battery fuse, if it holds a charge and the display doesn't come on.
Either external fuse behind a rubber grommet affair or it might be internal which means opening it.
A pic might help.

 

[Andrew Brown]

Battery fuse, if it holds a charge and the display doesn't come on.
Either external fuse behind a rubber grommet affair or it might be internal which means opening it.
A pic might help.

Thank you

There is a grommet with a fuse beneath. is this a case of removing and reinserting and presumably remove with battery switched off Any other precautions ?

 

[Nealh]

Yes switch off and remove, most use either a car std car blade fuse or a micro blade fuse. Fit one that is the next rating up of the batteries discharge current other wise it will always blow.

 

[Andrew Brown]

Yes switch off and remove, most use either a car std car blade fuse or a micro blade fuse. Fit one that is the next rating up of the batteries discharge current other wise it will always blow.

That's really helpful, thank you. BTW what would be the most likely cause of it blowing in the first place ??

 

[Andrew Brown]

Update I have removed the fuse and it appears intact to the naked eye but perhaps that is not the way to check. But having removed and replaced back into position the display still does not switch on . I have not acquired a new fuse as it was too late today to acquire one. But I can say that it was a 20 fuse and it said 30 something on the battery case grommet.

 

[Andy-Mat]

Update I have removed the fuse and it appears intact to the naked eye but perhaps that is not the way to check. But having removed and replaced back into position the display still does not switch on . I have not acquired a new fuse as it was too late today to acquire one. But I can say that it was a 20 fuse and it said 30 something on the battery case grommet.

Always best to check for certain, blown or not blown, with an Ohm Meter.
Andy

 

[Andrew Brown]

Thank you. I will obtain a meter . That could also be used to check the battery for voltage held but what does worry me a little is the socket on the battery has its positive and negative very very close together and it looks a little precarious and I'm nervous about accidentally wavering a tiny bit and getting a short but for now I want to establish for sure whether the fuse is the issue so will focus on that

 

[Andy-Mat]

Thank you. I will obtain a meter . That could also be used to check the battery for voltage held but what does worry me a little is the socket on the battery has its positive and negative very very close together and it looks a little precarious and I'm nervous about accidentally wavering a tiny bit and getting a short but for now I want to establish for sure whether the fuse is the issue so will focus on that

Its good that you are wary, far safer so.
If you have access to shrink sleeving, you could place a piece on each probe, leaving say 5-10 mm longer than needed, that you could fit over each battery pin while measuring....it will make it safer.....Or, finding the mating connector in an electronics shop or ebay, pushing that on the connector and feed out two wires to your meter...
regards
Andy

 

[Nealh]

A simple continuity/buzz check on the fuse contacts will tell you if the breaker is in tact. Equally you may need to carry out some wire testing as well from the battery to the display and possibly with battery wiring.

 

[Andrew Brown]

Hello An update. I havent yet for a multimeter but I have had my battery tested with a multimeter. It was registering on my charger as fully charged and on the multimeter at Halfords as 41 volts.

So i guess I now need the multimeter as suggested to check the continuity of wiring (with the battery off of course) and for that I need to learn how to use the meter. But at least its not the batteru which is the expensive component

A simple continuity/buzz check on the fuse contacts will tell you if the breaker is in tact. Equally you may need to carry out some wire testing as well from the battery to the display and possibly with battery wiring.