Is this bike ok to fit a kit to.

[Garrydog]

Hi
I recently bought a second hand powerbike euro but I find it to be underpowered. Probably because of my weight I am just over 16 stones,100kg. I would like to fit a kit to my regular bike to lower the pressure on my bad knee.
My bike is a Scott sportster P5 it's a XL frame so plenty of room for battery ect .So my question is would this bike be suitable for a kit , and also taking into account of my weight what kit would be ok for the bike.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It looks perfect to me.
This motor 36v 201 rpm:
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/776-q128h-48v800w-rear-driving-e-bike-motor-wheel-ebike-kit.html?search_query=Q128H&results=2
This battery and controller etc:
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/680-48v116ah-bottle-09-panasonic-battery-pack-battery.html
Torque arm:
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-parts/450-a-pair-of-ebike-torque-arm-parts.html?search_query=torque+aarm&results=83

That's powerful, smooth, silent, easy to install and has a really nice control system. Top speed about 24 mph on the road and it has really strong power up to about 21 mph. you can adjust the power up and down to suit conditions.

Later on, you should think about uprating your front brake to a hydraulic disc. you have the mount for one, but you'd need a new front wheel. Total cost would be about £50 to £60 using Ebay used ones. Fitting would take about 5 minutes.

 

[Fordulike]

Nice bike, good brand, go for it

 

[anotherkiwi]

You could just fit a Magura Hydraulic rim brake to the front.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You could just fit a Magura Hydraulic rim brake to the front.

More expensive and not as good. You might as well do it properly with a disc.

 

[Garrydog]

You could just fit a Magura Hydraulic rim brake to the front.

Thanks for your swift reply's very interesting . Can you tell me what else would I have to buy , what will be in the kit ? Will they do a 700c wheel? What controller would you pick 3 on offer ?

 

[Nealh]

Thanks for your swift reply's very interesting . Can you tell me what else would I have to buy , what will be in the kit ? Will they do a 700c wheel? What controller would you pick 3 on offer ?

Battery has integrated controller on the docking base so all is nicely plug and play without additional wiring . All you need to do is order the 3 items linke d to in #2, when ordering you should be able to specify a 28" rim or just add an amendment to your order.
Alternately just buy the bare motor and have your existing wheel/rim laced in a 1x to it by your LBS so you then have matching rims.

 

[anotherkiwi]

From "The Art of Bicycle Touring"

Pros of disc brakes:

• Strong action
• Less affected by mud and water
• Unaffected by warped rims
• Pads last a long time
• No rim wear and tear
• No heated rims or tire blowouts on long descents
• Disc-specific rims can be slightly stronger
• They look cool, let's admit it!

Cons of disc brakes:

• Put more stress on spokes
• You need a dished wheel, even in front
• More beefy forks required, since stress is put on one side
• Some risk of pulling front wheel out of the dropout due to torsional stress
• Weaker rear wheel, since more dished both sides
• Complicates rack attachment
• Complicates rear kickstand mounting
• Less standard worldwide, more likely to need FedEx
• Pads become useless if you get oil on them
• Disc rotor is smaller than rims, so heats up more quickly
• On long descents, red hot rotor can heat up hub (bad for bearings)
• Disc rotor can still become damaged in transit, harder to replace
• Disc brakes often need re-adjustment and often squeal for no apparent reason

Pros of rim brakes:

• Simple, standard system
• Properly adjusted, can stop any bike
• Cheap replacement blocks
• Better mechanical advantage using rim
• No dishing of front wheel necessary
• Less stress on spokes
• Less wheel dishing = stronger wheels
• Less torque stress on front fork
• No tendency to pull front wheel out of dropouts
• Don't interfere with rack attachment
• Don't interfere with rear kickstand mount
• They let you know when your rim needs truing
• No risk of heating up your hubs on long descents

Cons of rim brakes:

• Wear and tear on rims
• Risk tire blowout from heating up rims on long descents
• Affected by water and mud
• Not always as strong as disc
• Don't look as cool

After 5000+ km on mine (entry level HS11) I have yet to see any of the above cons, not yet changed blocks, not yet had to bleed the system. I don't care if it doesn't look cool and they don't weigh as much. I tow a trailer full of shopping from time to time so +130 total kgs to stop on the hill with lots of trafic down to my street on the way back from the supermarket.

Price - this is my principal safety item on the bike so I think it was 57 € well spent so far. Disk brake = 27 € entry level Shimano on sale, but if you don't have a disk hub on your front wheel (my case) you are going to need a new wheel too... Wheel with disk hub 43 € at Taylor Wheels. That is a total of 70 € so cost advantage in my case goes to the hydraulic rim brake...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

From "The Art of Bicycle Touring"

Pros of disc brakes:

• Strong action
• Less affected by mud and water
• Unaffected by warped rims
• Pads last a long time
• No rim wear and tear
• No heated rims or tire blowouts on long descents
• Disc-specific rims can be slightly stronger
• They look cool, let's admit it!

Cons of disc brakes:

• Put more stress on spokes
• You need a dished wheel, even in front
• More beefy forks required, since stress is put on one side
• Some risk of pulling front wheel out of the dropout due to torsional stress
• Weaker rear wheel, since more dished both sides
• Complicates rack attachment
• Complicates rear kickstand mounting
• Less standard worldwide, more likely to need FedEx
• Pads become useless if you get oil on them
• Disc rotor is smaller than rims, so heats up more quickly
• On long descents, red hot rotor can heat up hub (bad for bearings)
• Disc rotor can still become damaged in transit, harder to replace
• Disc brakes often need re-adjustment and often squeal for no apparent reason

I've never read such a load of ball-cox:

• Put more stress on spokes

When has a forum member ever suffered broken front spokes?

• You need a dished wheel, even in front

I've never needed to dish a front disc wheel with or without a motor

• More beefy forks required, since stress is put on one side

He already has forks designed to take a disc so he's already carrying the beefiness.

• Some risk of pulling front wheel out of the dropout due to torsional stress

What??? If wheels jumped out when you pulled the brake lever, there'd be a major recall.

• Weaker rear wheel, since more dished both sides

How can you dish both sides? dishing the second side undishes the first!

• Complicates rack attachment

Who fits a rack to the front of their bike?

• Complicates rear kickstand mounting
• Less standard worldwide, more likely to need FedEx

What???? Name a country that doesn't have disc brakes.

• Pads become useless if you get oil on them

and rim pads don't???

• Disc rotor is smaller than rims, so heats up more quickly

but your pads don't melt.

• On long descents, red hot rotor can heat up hub (bad for bearings)

At least the brake will still be working and the tyre stays on

• Disc rotor can still become damaged in transit, harder to replace

Disc harder to replace than a rim? I don't think so

• Disc brakes often need re-adjustment and often squeal for no apparent reason

Hydraulic discs need no adjustment. Rim brakes do - regularly.

 

[Garrydog]

From "The Art of Bicycle Touring"

Pros of disc brakes:

• Strong action
• Less affected by mud and water
• Unaffected by warped rims
• Pads last a long time
• No rim wear and tear
• No heated rims or tire blowouts on long descents
• Disc-specific rims can be slightly stronger
• They look cool, let's admit it!

Cons of disc brakes:

• Put more stress on spokes
• You need a dished wheel, even in front
• More beefy forks required, since stress is put on one side
• Some risk of pulling front wheel out of the dropout due to torsional stress
• Weaker rear wheel, since more dished both sides
• Complicates rack attachment
• Complicates rear kickstand mounting
• Less standard worldwide, more likely to need FedEx
• Pads become useless if you get oil on them
• Disc rotor is smaller than rims, so heats up more quickly
• On long descents, red hot rotor can heat up hub (bad for bearings)
• Disc rotor can still become damaged in transit, harder to replace
• Disc brakes often need re-adjustment and often squeal for no apparent reason

Pros of rim brakes:

• Simple, standard system
• Properly adjusted, can stop any bike
• Cheap replacement blocks
• Better mechanical advantage using rim
• No dishing of front wheel necessary
• Less stress on spokes
• Less wheel dishing = stronger wheels
• Less torque stress on front fork
• No tendency to pull front wheel out of dropouts
• Don't interfere with rack attachment
• Don't interfere with rear kickstand mount
• They let you know when your rim needs truing
• No risk of heating up your hubs on long descents

Cons of rim brakes:

• Wear and tear on rims
• Risk tire blowout from heating up rims on long descents
• Affected by water and mud
• Not always as strong as disc
• Don't look as cool

After 5000+ km on mine (entry level HS11) I have yet to see any of the above cons, not yet changed blocks, not yet had to bleed the system. I don't care if it doesn't look cool and they don't weigh as much. I tow a trailer full of shopping from time to time so +130 total kgs to stop on the hill with lots of trafic down to my street on the way back from the supermarket.

Price - this is my principal safety item on the bike so I think it was 57 € well spent so far. Disk brake = 27 € entry level Shimano on sale, but if you don't have a disk hub on your front wheel (my case) you are going to need a new wheel too... Wheel with disk hub 43 € at Taylor Wheels. That is a total of 70 € so cost advantage in my case goes to the hydraulic rim brake...[/QUOTE

I've never read such a load of ball-cox:

• Put more stress on spokes

When has a forum member ever suffered broken front spokes?

• You need a dished wheel, even in front

I've never needed to dish a front disc wheel with or without a motor

• More beefy forks required, since stress is put on one side

He already has forks designed to take a disc so he's already carrying the beefiness.

• Some risk of pulling front wheel out of the dropout due to torsional stress

What??? If wheels jumped out when you pulled the brake lever, there'd be a major recall.

• Weaker rear wheel, since more dished both sides

How can you dish both sides? dishing the second side undishes the first!

• Complicates rack attachment

Who fits a rack to the front of their bike?

• Complicates rear kickstand mounting
• Less standard worldwide, more likely to need FedEx

What???? Name a country that doesn't have disc brakes.

• Pads become useless if you get oil on them

and rim pads don't???

• Disc rotor is smaller than rims, so heats up more quickly

but your pads don't melt.

• On long descents, red hot rotor can heat up hub (bad for bearings)

At least the brake will still be working and the tyre stays on

• Disc rotor can still become damaged in transit, harder to replace

Disc harder to replace than a rim? I don't think so

• Disc brakes often need re-adjustment and often squeal for no apparent reason

Hydraulic discs need no adjustment. Rim brakes do - regularly.

 

[Garrydog]

I need to order the three parts ok but what else do I need to buy , the handlebar display , do I need new brake levers , what about the peddle assist do I need to buy parts for that . Or do I need any of that , can I just run on a throttle.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If you buy the battery that I indicated, everything is included.

 

[Garrydog]

If you buy the battery that I indicated, everything is included.

Hi d8veh
Well I am torn , been on to BMS they quoted £580 for the parts including delivery , think I may have to pay VAT and duty maybe if I have to pay that I am looking at well over £600 for the kit. Been looking at the woosh big bear bike ,if I sold my bike I could have a new bike for not much more than the kit . In your opinion would the kit be a better option than the woosh big bear?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Hi d8veh
Well I am torn , been on to BMS they quoted £580 for the parts including delivery , think I may have to pay VAT and duty maybe if I have to pay that I am looking at well over £600 for the kit. Been looking at the woosh big bear bike ,if I sold my bike I could have a new bike for not much more than the kit . In your opinion would the kit be a better option than the woosh big bear?

Better at what? The BMSB kit is faster, smoother, more powerful, lighter and has (IMHO) a better control system.

 

[fos'l]

d8, not to hijack, but I would like the same kit without battery. Is there a reason not to procure the cassette version and which controller is best?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

d8, not to hijack, but I would like the same kit without battery. Is there a reason not to procure the cassette version and which controller is best?

The Q128H is for free-wheel gears (normally 7-speed or less). The Q128C is for free-hub gears (normally 8-speed or more).

There's nothing to stop you from buying a new shifter, cassette/freewheel and derailleur to change from one system to the other. They're relatively cheap compared with the rest of the kit. If you change, from free-hub to free-wheel or already have free-wheel gears, you should get a DNP gear cluster with 11T top gear.

Free-hub gears are generally better. They shift better and you have more choices of gear ratios.

Which controller is best for what? If you don't have any special requirements, the Kunteng sine wave controllers are my favourites. They give instant response, make the motor smooth and quiet and have "torque simulation", which is current control for the pedal assist.

 

[fos'l]

d8, thanks for the reply; I was mainly interested in the best controller for my non-critical needs, and probably I'll run a Luna Cycles 52V system. Glad to see there are no downsides to cassette version since that lets me design the gears for optimum usability.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

52v isn't always straight-forward. the controller's LVC will be too low and you can get HVC problems too.

 

[Garrydog]

52v isn't always straight-forward. the controller's LVC will be too low and you can get HVC problems too.

.
Thanks for all of your replys . Well I pondered on shall I buy the kit or not in the end I bought a nearly new bike. The bike is a Raleigh array crossbar black only 6 months old and for about the same price as the kit. I changed the front sprocket for one with more teeth , now I am quite pleased with it . Anyway thanks for all of your valuable advice.

 

[Danidl]

.
Thanks for all of your replys . Well I pondered on shall I buy the kit or not in the end I bought a nearly new bike. The bike is a Raleigh array crossbar black only 6 months old and for about the same price as the kit. I changed the front sprocket for one with more teeth , now I am quite pleased with it . Anyway thanks for all of your valuable advice.

Good call.