is this a square taper crank workable for my PAS disk?

[maggy.apo]

I just bought a crank removal but before try to take my cranks to try to install my PAS disk, I want to know if this is possible
I can see like a spacer or ring, what dont let me enough room to fit my PAS disk, can I take that off and use the bike without that? or its not possible? otherwise I was thinking to shave a bit of the plastic to fit this, I think I will need to shave like 2 or 3mm of plastic
do i have a square taper crank?

 

[vfr400]

Normally, PAS goes behind the chainwheel unless you have a left side one. It might help to show what you have.

 

[maggy.apo]

I have ekit conversion fron cyclotricity, 250W
they say this is a left side one, the ring open in the middle

 

[maggy.apo]

 

[maggy.apo]

my sensor is a KT D12FL, you can use tie cables to fit in the seat tube

 

[vfr400]

OK, that's a left one then. Unfortunately, you have the wrong type of bottom bracket bearings. If it were my bike, i'd replace that arrangement with a cartridge unit that you can get from Halfords for about £10. The alternative would be to take the pedal arm off and grind about 3mm off the back face.

Bottom brackets come in different lengths. If you take yours off, you can measure the length of the spindle and get one the same length or nearest to it.

 

[maggy.apo]

ah! bad luck
to be honest I would like to avoid change pieces and more, I have really bad luck with my LBS
I just saw this fix here

Swytch PAS fitting

Hi, Having learnt a lot from this forum, I thought I should give a little back. I've recently finished fitting a "25-mile" Swytch conversion kit to my girlfriend's new bike, a Ryedale Harlow -- she saved a fair chunk of cash by getting a discontinued model. She wanted a girly bike that wasn't...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

I think I will try this first

 

[RobN]

I have had the same problem today with my kit that I was fitting.
No room between crank arm and bottom bracket.
As vfr400 advised in your post I shaved about 3 mm off the crank arm to create a gap and I also did not have the square taper bottom bracket so I had to remove the flexible tangs in the centre of the magnetic disc so it went over the shaft and then I have used some epoxy glue to stick it to the crank arm once it was in a position to work.
All works nicely on first test.

 

[maggy.apo]

I just tried, at first try the motor jamed a bit, I noticed the disk still stopping for moments so I cut a bit more, some sand paper and the fit was perfect, some superglue and now rum smooth
so whats the name of the type of the crank I have?

 

[vfr400]

I just tried, at first try the motor jamed a bit, I noticed the disk still stopping for moments so I cut a bit more, some sand paper and the fit was perfect, some superglue and now rum smooth
so whats the name of the type of the crank I have?

You have a standard square taper crank. It's the bottom bracket that's not so common. You have the traditional adjustable cup and cone bearings. Modern bikes use sealed roller bearings in a single cartridge unit. The two types are interchangeable.