is there a "best" controller?

[alexsally]

So, you all know what it's like with ebikes someone tries one, then next thing you know they want one
because of that , I have now fitted a kit to my bike , mt gf's bike and my mums!
But here is the thing: my bike rides "freer" than my other halfs. They both have rear hub , 250w watt conversions with king lcd. Mine was from yosepower
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36v350W-26-rear-motor-with-Cassette-e-bike-electric-bicycle-Conversion-kit-LCD-/222254726342?hash=item33bf69fcc6

My other halfs was from ebc http://www.electricbikeconversions.co.uk/product/250w-rear-wheel-electric-bike-conversion-kit/

While both kits look like they share 98% of parts hers rides differently. in power one it feels like the motor drags and as if you have to "pedal over it". It rolls lovely with motor off but you almost need to go straight to three to feel it is skipping along with your pedal cadence. Its a hard thing to describe I know. but mine just seems more responsive. I have done nearly 300 miles on mine though so it is more run in.
The only difference I can see is the controller. Is there a best controller and are they all sharing the same connectors? I've read on here about sine wave controllers and wonder if mine just has a better unit. I'd be interested in upgrading her unit, it was easy to fit but it was all colour coded and the replacement might not be so simple to fit?
Sorry for the ramble
Alex

 

[jerrysimon]

Not sure what the hub is but that looks like a nice little kit lcd/controller and connection wise

From the little I know about recent controllers I think the sin wave one can be smoother and make the motor quieter. I just purchased one from PSWPOWER with d8veh's guidance.

Of course you would then probably have to reprogramme the LCD (or buy a new one to go with it) and cut off and reconnect all those lovely plugs!

PSWPOWER are VERY fast with dilivery.

Another option first, would be to check the programming on your LCD and compare it with theirs ?

User mannuals for the LCD3 are on line.

Note to self read the posts more carefully they are differnent kits sigh. As you said maybe yours probably has a sinwave controller. Your kit actually looks better than theirs connector wise.

Jerry

 

[alexsally]

Programming the LCD is a good thought. I've made hers the same as mine although I haven't fiddled with the settings in the long list after the basic, speed, kph, etc
Alex

 

[jerrysimon]

Yes I haven't programmed one yet as still waiting for my motor. There are a LOT of P, C settings etc you can fiddle around with, all in the manual. Make sure you take a note of them BEFORE you change them!.

 

[alexsally]

Yes I haven't programmed one yet as still waiting for my motor. There are a LOT of P, C settings etc you can fiddle around with, all in the manual. Make sure you take a note of them BEFORE you change them!.

Did that on my bike, luckily the last setting is something like "restore to normal"

 

[jerrysimon]

lol yes.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The biggest single charactristic of a motor that affects your ride is the kV (rpm per volt). Even identical motors with different speed windings (kV) can feel completely different.

If your motors have hall sensors (8 or 9 wires), you most likely already have sine wave controllers.

 

[alexsally]

The biggest single charactristic of a motor that affects your ride is the kV (rpm per volt). Even identical motors with different speed windings (kV) can feel completely different.

If your motors have hall sensors (8 or 9 wires), you most likely already have sine wave controllers.

I'm probably having a senior moment but my motor has one big black wire coming off it... I will look at the controllers and post a pic. I don't know how to tell the kv without taking apart but I wouldn't change it out anyways. Btw, her one is also a bit more noisy so maybe it isn't quite the same motor...
Alex

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The kV is directly related to the motor's speed. Assuming that both bikes are not restricted to 25 km/h, lift the whee off the ground and spin the motor up to its maximum with a fully-charged battery. Check the speed on the display or measure with a cycle computer.

Bear in mind that a small wheel needs to spin faster for the same speed as a bigger one.

 

[alexsally]

Cool, I'll check that

 

[jerrysimon]

I'm probably having a senior moment but my motor has one big black wire coming off it... I will look at the controllers and post a pic. I don't know how to tell the kv without taking apart but I wouldn't change it out anyways. Btw, her one is also a bit more noisy so maybe it isn't quite the same motor...
Alex

One big black wire but inside will be 3 main larger wires and the 5/6 smaller wires a D8veh states. As yours has it all in one plug you wont see them but the plug will have 3 + 5/6 pins if you look at the end of it when unplugged.

Jerry

 

[alexsally]

The kV is directly related to the motor's speed. Assuming that both bikes are not restricted to 25 km/h, lift the whee off the ground and spin the motor up to its maximum with a fully-charged battery. Check the speed on the display or measure with a cycle computer.

Bear in mind that a small wheel needs to spin faster for the same speed as a bigger one.

Ok. here is the main connector from the motor and the controller.
Hope this means something


Alex

 

[Nealh]

9 pin connector = sensored hub/ sine wave controller.

 

[alexsally]

9 pin connector = sensored hub/ sine wave controller.

Thanks.
Is 7a current the norm as well?
Alex

 

[rich_r]

Yes- that's a very common controller used in quite a few of the 250W kits and 7A is the usual steady current for that power at 36V (ie 36x7=252W)

 

[Nealh]

Thanks.
Is 7a current the norm as well?
Alex

Although rated 7a it will output 14 or 15a if asked to, as per the max rating on the controller.
The 350w hub will be able to take a few more amps, so if you wanted to and your battery is up to it you could try a small shunt mod and increase the amps by 25/30% to nearer 20/22a for a bit more torque.

 

[alexsally]

Thank you.
Alex