Is rain to blame for BBS01 problems

[Deleted member 4366]

If you want to use an external controller with a crank-drive motor, it needs to be a current control one, like KT. If you use speed control, wierd things happen when you change gear.

 

[johneb]

If I may jump in:

KT 17A or 20A sine wave controller or the like with external speed sensor plug, 36/48v compatible one is the best choice. The GSM internal controller is 18A so a couple extra won't hurt the motor.
A speed sensor
KT LCD-6 because it has a cadence monitor which can help you keep the GSM within the 80-90 rpm it likes
The PAS is internal, don't fry it... you will need a Julet to whatever PAS socket there is on the controller or solder the wires together, don't fry the PAS...
A couple of HWbrake sensors (your trike has cable drum brakes?)

Where to put the controller is up to you, I think mine will be up front somewhere to keep the cable runs short.

Thanks AK. Where do you buy your kit from? I like the idea of a 36/48v compatible controller, as although I have a 36v battery available, it gives me the option for a power increase in future. Yes - cable disks up front, so conventional sensors will be fine. I seem to remember that you've used a controller with torque sensor simulation in the past(?), but as both you and d8veh have recommended the KT series controller, I'm only too happy to be guided to that. As for frying the PAS, I'll do my best to avoid it! I assume that means take care getting the connections right first time?

 

[anotherkiwi]

A bit from Cyclotek a bit from BMSbattery...

PSWpower might be the best choice they have all the bits. http://www.pswpower.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2016-3F-39N8.50CQE and http://www.pswpower.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2016-AN-JT6A.1RVQK

Not plugging in stuff in the pitch black at the bottom of the stairs helps with the PAS, I plugged mine into the speed sensor I think, it was dark ...

 

[Nealh]

I guess if you do fry the internal pas would a KTV12L fit on the left side ?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Thanks AK. Where do you buy your kit from? I like the idea of a 36/48v compatible controller, as although I have a 36v battery available, it gives me the option for a power increase in future. Yes - cable disks up front, so conventional sensors will be fine. I seem to remember that you've used a controller with torque sensor simulation in the past(?), but as both you and d8veh have recommended the KT series controller, I'm only too happy to be guided to that. As for frying the PAS, I'll do my best to avoid it! I assume that means take care getting the connections right first time?

You shouldn't switch a crank drive motor from 36v to 48v because it will speed up the motor. The extra power will be at a speed you can't pedal and it will be much less efficient at your normal pedal speed.

 

[johneb]

You shouldn't switch a crank drive motor from 36v to 48v because it will speed up the motor. The extra power will be at a speed you can't pedal and it will be much less efficient at your normal pedal speed.

Ah - many thanks, d8veh. That could have been an expensive mistake!

 

[anotherkiwi]

Agreed for 48v but 44.4v gives an interesting cadence of about 110 rpm easy to attain (and maintain) on a recumbent where I have a natural tendency to spin faster. At the standard voltage I am often spinning past 85-90 rpm and producing back EMF on an upright. To be tested when I get a weather window.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Some numbers:

Bafang BBS01 cadences
78/83 at 36/42v

The GSM
No-load Engine speed（RPM） 90±5
Engine speed（RPM） 85±5 (36v and 42v)

I like to spin at 90 rpm even up to 100-110 so by increasing the voltage 25% I should attain a load rpm of 105 right in my comfort zone.

Increasing to 48v gives 113 rpm, now the Bafang BBSHD drive has a loaded rpm of 100/116 at 48v and 54v

 

[minexplorer]

Got bit excited there for a minute, to see all the new replies to my post....

 

[johneb]

Got bit excited there for a minute, to see all the new replies to my post....

Yes - sorry - I've hijacked it somewhat!