input on bottle battery security/rack and rear wheel removal

[footpump]

hi all received vita ebike today, and am awaiting bits and bobs prior to trying it out, to wet today anyway.
the bottle battery on front downtube is a bit bigger in the flesh than I thought , downtube is is quite wide, I wish to secure it a bit more ( potholes, rougher roads etc purchased some 300mm cable ties but there not long enough. any suggestions for securing please.

I wish to fit some kind of rack cycle has disks , seat tube type might surfice,but the seatpost coller is (quick realese) easy for thieves to nick setpost/rack and saddlebags, sugestions please.

the real concern for me is the rear wheel with hub moter is NOT quick release so I need to carry a 18mm spanner to remove wheel ,spare tube etc. ( I intend to put some slime gunge into the tubes) have found the puncture resistant tyres a bit harder to peddle.

I have never repaired a tube or changed one with the wheel on the bike so can see myself struggling with that.
any utube vids out there ?

I get more than my fair share of punctures sorry for the long post.

thanks all

 

[mountainsport]

hi all received vita ebike today, and am awaiting bits and bobs prior to trying it out, to wet today anyway.
the bottle battery on front downtube is a bit bigger in the flesh than I thought , downtube is is quite wide, I wish to secure it a bit more ( potholes, rougher roads etc purchased some 300mm cable ties but there not long enough. any suggestions for securing please.

I wish to fit some kind of rack cycle has disks , seat tube type might surfice,but the seatpost coller is (quick realese) easy for thieves to nick setpost/rack and saddlebags, sugestions please.

the real concern for me is the rear wheel with hub moter is NOT quick release so I need to carry a 18mm spanner to remove wheel ,spare tube etc. ( I intend to put some slime gunge into the tubes) have found the puncture resistant tyres a bit harder to peddle.

I have never repaired a tube or changed one with the wheel on the bike so can see myself struggling with that.
any utube vids out there ?

I get more than my fair share of punctures sorry for the long post.

thanks all

Hi footpump IMHO, please leave the non quick easy release back wheel as it is. It is best to lose the seat rather than lose a wheel, motor and brake disc.

MS.

 

[Alan Quay]

Did you know that you can join cable ties together?
As for racks, you can get disk compatible ones. Last one I fitted came from Halfords, about £20.

I would recommend puncture proof tyres. The extra peddle power isnt so much of problem on electric bikes. I also recommend carrying tools, and a spare tube all the time - those seat bags are great for that.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Join two cable ties together to make them longer.

 

[RobF]

purchased some 300mm cable ties but there not long enough. any suggestions for securing please.
l

Link two cable ties to give 600mm, give or take.

 

[RobF]

And one of these could ease your puncture anxiety:

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/a-new-type-of-tube.17189/

 

[jackhandy]

Are you intending to cable tie right round the body of the battery & downtube?

I think most people just cable tie the battey-holder to the downtube to reinforce the frame lugs, assuming there's room for a couple of ties.

AFAIK no rear-motor wheel has quick release.

 

[oldtom]

AFAIK no rear-motor wheel has quick release.

Kalkhoff PC Xion has one.

Tom

 

[footpump]

thanks all for replies as regards the bottle battery fixing it seems to be held on by 5mm hex bolts as per bottle cage, the battery is 5.77lbs so I want to secure it a bit more as regards potholes bumps. although you can lock the battery in its holder it looks as though the whole issue could be pried off by thieving towrags.
its a bit cumbersome to remove and carry in say a rucksack while unattended.

as regards rear wheel removal/puncture for peace of mind I think I will have to go slime and a puncture resistant tyre. and get a gaadi just in case.

ps never new cable ties could be joined, unused v brake mount is very sturdy if I go seat post rack I could secure with cable lock.

thank you all

 

[GT3]

Why do you think the battery is not sufficiently secured? My bottle battery has survived several thousand miles and shows no sign of detachment.

I wouldn't worry about theft either. The scumbags have no idea what these things are.

Slime is counterproductive as well. Buy some quality tyres, (Schwalbe Marathon Plus etc) and learn how repair punctures. Nine times out of ten, there's no need to remove the wheel.

 

[Clockwise]

And one of these could ease your puncture anxiety:

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/a-new-type-of-tube.17189/

Slime won't work well with those as it won't be able to run around easily so will all and up at one end of the tube, would be a nightmare.

As for the rack/pannier and seatpost, I personally would swap the seatpost clamp for one with pannier holes(if the frame doesn't have them in a suitable location), can't find anywhere cheap to buy the clamps atm but they are usually about £5

Regular seatpost clamps you can get for £2 from chain reaction, you will need to know the size which can be anywhere from 26mm upto about 40mm but if you are lucky it will be stamped on the side of the clamp or you can buy a few mm bigger than your seatpost so a 27.2 seatpost will likely have a 30-31mm size clamp.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/seatclamps?sort=pricelow

As for the racks it's more personal preference so long as the rack is wide enough to not obstruct the discs then all is good, some are wider to make sure they will on all bikes but most just go vertical and still won't have issues, I have one of these on one bike and it's very secure once you have it all adjusted properly. The key thing with pannier racks is to get bags that fit well with them or they will forever rattle about and just be annoying to use.

http://www.decathlon.co.uk/rear-pannier-rack-4b-athlete-id_8017723.html

As for the thief front something like this could slow them down, are some others that do the same from pinhead and someone but they have a shared key if I remember rightly. You can also go for a diy bodge and superglue a ball bearing into the allen key hole, it will however mean you need to soak the superglue in stuff to get it out whenever you need to adjust it, I have done it on a bikes headset before when I felt the handlebars had been worth enough to make them a theft magnet.

http://atomic22.com/

I personally just take off all my batterys, lights and bags when I'm locking up and take them with me, it takes me less than a minute as my rear lights I usually clip onto my bag. The "essentials" I would have in a saddle bag I have moved to a belt pouch and pocket in my bag.

20 in 1 airace tool, a lezyne mini puncture kit with levers, assorted glueless patches(lezyne, lifeline, park, weldtite red), leftover space filled with cereal snack bar thing - belt pouch
inner tube or two, airace mini pump, 15mm jobsworth pedal spanner/long spanner - convenient shaped pocket in bag

I'm also trying out a restrap lock holster with my new lock, bargain of a lock btw as other shops seem to be wanting £50+ for an abus 401(actual model of the lock).
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/restrap-lock-holster/
+
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/abus-mini-u-lock-yellow-id_8203082.html

I have repaired a couple with the wheel on in the past and try too if I can see the glass/pin/thorn stuck in the tyre to show where the hole will be. If so then lay the bike on it's side and half take off the tyre, stick a patch on and then put the half of the tyre back on. If you need a good search for the puncture then taking the wheel off is faster.

Hope the long post is helpful.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Why do you think the battery is not sufficiently secured? My bottle battery has survived several thousand miles and shows no sign of detachment.

The latch is held by a tiny plastic piece on the battery.That plastic piece is held in with a single screw, and it's very easy to break it off. I've had to repair one.and recently a guy on the forum had broken his.

If you wanted to steal a bottle battery, you could pull it off with your bare hands with the right technique.

I've also heard of the frame clinch-nuts coming loose, so it's a good idea to attach a couple of supporting straps (jubilee clips or cable ties) to clamp the main rail.