Help! I zip fault starts up on switching on?

[Andy-Mat]

Yes restored a G15 but now a G4. Ebike is just a bit of fun but still waiting for the mosfets.

How about some photos of the Ginettas?

Andy

 

[Ginettaman]

Finally got the MOSFET and soldered it in and its fixed! It was a fiddly job so I didn't take any others out as wasn't sure each was the same anyway. I ran it about 5 miles and it seems ok but pas stopped working but I may have missed the plug. Just as I got home I tried it from stand still and blew the 35amp fuse again? As I can't get 40 amp glass fuses I found some 50 amps which I'll try but hope they don't burn up anything . I guess to higher gearing maybe puts too much current through from stand still whereas I peddled off before.

 

[Andy-Mat]

Finally got the MOSFET and soldered it in and its fixed! It was a fiddly job so I didn't take any others out as wasn't sure each was the same anyway. I ran it about 5 miles and it seems ok but pas stopped working but I may have missed the plug. Just as I got home I tried it from stand still and blew the 35amp fuse again? As I can't get 40 amp glass fuses I found some 50 amps which I'll try but hope they don't burn up anything . I guess to higher gearing maybe puts too much current through from stand still whereas I peddled off before.

Possibly the controller has been programmed for too high a current, you need to get that reduced, but do check the MOSFET again.
You have a brushed motor, one of the fields may be shorted, guessing only. I do not know my way around brushed motors for e-bikes at all, maybe someone else can give you better help.
You are making progress, albeit slowly!
Best wishes
Andy

 

[Ginettaman]

The flipping thing won't work and I even added another mosfet which was very fiddly with the solder not sticking. Absolutely sick of it and to me the controller is scrap now. I've ordered a more simple cheap Chinese 24v 500w controller with its own throttle to try but not confident as they say 20 amp not 35a which are hard to find. Us web sites want 60 dollars for the izip parts which I can't justify plus shipping and tax hassles.

 

[Ginettaman]

If you buy on ebay, as I mentioned before I believe, the cheap ones come slowly from the far east, the expensive ones from Europe...
Usually!
I have never noticed a quality difference.
Its still 90% that will be the fix.
On my controller, from my present bike, all the MOSFETs, no matter what they were used for, controlling or switching, were all exactly the same type, which may prove useful in the future if ever one blows!
Did you look on all of yours?
Andy

Yes but they would not solder in very well on the old boards I don't really have the tools and skills to do the tiny joints even under my magnifying glass. Very fiddly

 

[cyclebuddy]

One cap has sticky stuff on top.

The other cap - without the sticky stuff - looks like it's failing too if it hasn't already. From what I can see it looks like the top is bulging slightly. Worth testing, although personally I'd just replace both.

 

[Andy-Mat]

The other cap - without the sticky stuff - looks like it's failing too if it hasn't already. From what I can see it looks like the top is bulging slightly. Worth testing, although personally I'd just replace both.

If it truly shows slight bulging, its probably defective.
But if you are right about your soldering, then probably a new controller is in order.
Try looking for the one you want direct from China/Far East most are IMHO made there, or close to, and are often supplied with no Postage charges, or only with minimal charges. It just takes a bit longer to arrive....
Best wishes
Andy