I ran into my first problem
- Thread starter at221
- Start date
The tyres normally fitted as standard to the ezee bikes are of reasonable quality and I doubt that anything cheap would offer the same level of puncture resistance.
Tyres offering a high degree of puncture resistance are available in larger sizes but I'm not sure about 20"(Quando size) and they are relatively expensive.
Other measures you can take are filling the tubes with "slime", which is a self sealing compound available from bike shops or fitting a tyre liner such as this. which would have to be cut down from the available sizes to suit your 20" wheels.
Neither measure is 100% effective but will reduce the risk.
Tyres offering a high degree of puncture resistance are available in larger sizes but I'm not sure about 20"(Quando size) and they are relatively expensive.
Other measures you can take are filling the tubes with "slime", which is a self sealing compound available from bike shops or fitting a tyre liner such as this. which would have to be cut down from the available sizes to suit your 20" wheels.
Neither measure is 100% effective but will reduce the risk.
Hi at221
I've got a pair of the Quando II Kenda tyres that are hardly touched that you're welcome to have free if that suits.
If you definitely want something that almost totally free of punctures, the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres are the ones to have, I've never known one punctured. They are pricey though, at about £26 each.
The 20 x 1.75 size for your bike, the nearest they do, are rather difficult to locate ex stock and in short supply anyway. The best source who normally stock them are Avon Cyclery, AKA folding bikes,co.uk. They sell at £25 each and their P & P is only £1.95 for First Class post overnight.
.
I've got a pair of the Quando II Kenda tyres that are hardly touched that you're welcome to have free if that suits.
If you definitely want something that almost totally free of punctures, the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres are the ones to have, I've never known one punctured. They are pricey though, at about £26 each.
The 20 x 1.75 size for your bike, the nearest they do, are rather difficult to locate ex stock and in short supply anyway. The best source who normally stock them are Avon Cyclery, AKA folding bikes,co.uk. They sell at £25 each and their P & P is only £1.95 for First Class post overnight.
.
thanks Ian for the info and flecc for your kind offer and advice. If its okay with you could I really have them for free? I am over the moon~! Sup 
. Lemme know what the postage is.
I am also planning to get one from Avon Cyclery as spare. Could you give me a direct link to the specific tyre that would fit on the quando II?
Cheers flecc ~
. Lemme know what the postage is.I am also planning to get one from Avon Cyclery as spare. Could you give me a direct link to the specific tyre that would fit on the quando II?
Cheers flecc ~
Here's the link for the Marathon Plus which is 20" x 1.75"-406, it's the fourth item down, not illustrated.
If you phone and ask for it instead, on 01225 442 442, they'll probably knock off the 99p of the £25.99 list price.
If you email me with an address to mail to, I'll get those tyres in the post to you, you're very welcome to them and it's best they go to where they'll be used rather than be scrapped. flecc@tinyworld.co.uk
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If you phone and ask for it instead, on 01225 442 442, they'll probably knock off the 99p of the £25.99 list price.
If you email me with an address to mail to, I'll get those tyres in the post to you, you're very welcome to them and it's best they go to where they'll be used rather than be scrapped. flecc@tinyworld.co.uk
.
Hi AT221,
I would suggest you obtain a decent bicycle repair manual such as this, in addition to tyres & tubes it will cover brakes, chains and all the other parts which will require routine maintenance.
Removal of the Quando rear wheel may involve additional steps because of the motor and possibly brake, these will hopefully be explained in the manual that came with the bike.
Ian.
I would suggest you obtain a decent bicycle repair manual such as this, in addition to tyres & tubes it will cover brakes, chains and all the other parts which will require routine maintenance.
Removal of the Quando rear wheel may involve additional steps because of the motor and possibly brake, these will hopefully be explained in the manual that came with the bike.
Ian.
In that case start with the front wheel first to gain confidence Andy, as it's much easier, but I'm not sure if you mean the Marathon Plus or the tyres I'm sending. Those are the standard Kenda puncture resistant ones and may be the same as you have. If you are changing them, here's the procedure. You'll need some tyre levers and a pump.
Turn the bike upside down, grasp the curved metal guide on the front brake cable and pull it outwards to unhook it. You may need to screw in the adjuster at the lever to give a little slack. Now loosen both front wheel nuts sufficiently for the wheel to come free and lift it out.
Now remove the dust cap on the tyre valve and press in the centre pin to release as much air as possible. At the opposite side to the valve, work the tyre into the centre of the rim to maximise it's slack on the rim, then insert the curved end section of a tyre lever adjacent to the valve and lever the tyre off the rim at that point. Be careful to avoid pinching the inner tube as well. The Tyre lever will have a slot at the end of the handle part, so hook that onto a spoke to keep it in place.
Now insert a second lever just the other side of the valve and lever off again, repeating the hooking as before. then with a third lever start a little bit further on from the second and repeat that operation. At this stage the tyre off of the rim should be slack enough for you to start pulling off all of that side, using the first lever to help that if necessary. Once that side is fully off, pull the tube out from the tyre, ending wit the point where the valve is. Pull the tyre back over itself at that point so that you can lift the valve out of the rim, leaving the rim tape in place as that protects from the spoke nipple ends. Finally pull off the second edge of the tyre, called the beading, off the rim.
Reverse the procedure to fit the new tyre, making sure the tyre direction is correct as marked on the side by an arrow or similar. The arrow should point in the direction of the bike's rear at the road surface point. Start with one beading, then fold back the tyre to insert the tube's valve, and with a touch of air in the tube, not too much, to give it a little shape, place the tube back inside the tyre, making sure it's not twisted at all. Then the second beading can be worked back on, starting with the side opposite the valve and squeezing the tyre towards the centre as you go round evenly both sides to end up near the valve. Push the valve stem in a bit to make sure it's sitting inside the beading, then finally pull the rest of the bead over the edge of the rim. You may need the levers to do that, but this time again make sure you don't pinch the tube as that could puncture it.
Again push in the valve just a little to make sure it's sitting within the tyre, then "work" the tyre on the rim to make sure it's sitting evenly all round, judging by the circles on the tyre walls near the rim edge that are provided for this purpose. Now pump the tyre, slowly at first to ensure it sits evenly, finally bringing it to full pressure. Replace the wheel in the fork dropouts and tighten the wheel nuts evenly to secure it. Replace the brake cable that you disconnected, turn the bike back over and operate the brake lever a few times to align the brake. If necessary reset the cable adjustment on the lever.
Job done. As this will be your first time, that's enough for now, best come back when you are ready and feel confident to tackle for the more complex rear wheel details, which involve motor cables and associated parts.
P.S. I've just seen Ian's good advice in addition which will also be a very helpful source to learn all aspects from, but I'm happy to follow with details on the rear wheel as the manual is not exactly fulsome in this respect. I've had the Quando II's rear wheel out several times, changed tyres and tubes, and also stripped the motor so can give any advice necessary.
.
Turn the bike upside down, grasp the curved metal guide on the front brake cable and pull it outwards to unhook it. You may need to screw in the adjuster at the lever to give a little slack. Now loosen both front wheel nuts sufficiently for the wheel to come free and lift it out.
Now remove the dust cap on the tyre valve and press in the centre pin to release as much air as possible. At the opposite side to the valve, work the tyre into the centre of the rim to maximise it's slack on the rim, then insert the curved end section of a tyre lever adjacent to the valve and lever the tyre off the rim at that point. Be careful to avoid pinching the inner tube as well. The Tyre lever will have a slot at the end of the handle part, so hook that onto a spoke to keep it in place.
Now insert a second lever just the other side of the valve and lever off again, repeating the hooking as before. then with a third lever start a little bit further on from the second and repeat that operation. At this stage the tyre off of the rim should be slack enough for you to start pulling off all of that side, using the first lever to help that if necessary. Once that side is fully off, pull the tube out from the tyre, ending wit the point where the valve is. Pull the tyre back over itself at that point so that you can lift the valve out of the rim, leaving the rim tape in place as that protects from the spoke nipple ends. Finally pull off the second edge of the tyre, called the beading, off the rim.
Reverse the procedure to fit the new tyre, making sure the tyre direction is correct as marked on the side by an arrow or similar. The arrow should point in the direction of the bike's rear at the road surface point. Start with one beading, then fold back the tyre to insert the tube's valve, and with a touch of air in the tube, not too much, to give it a little shape, place the tube back inside the tyre, making sure it's not twisted at all. Then the second beading can be worked back on, starting with the side opposite the valve and squeezing the tyre towards the centre as you go round evenly both sides to end up near the valve. Push the valve stem in a bit to make sure it's sitting inside the beading, then finally pull the rest of the bead over the edge of the rim. You may need the levers to do that, but this time again make sure you don't pinch the tube as that could puncture it.
Again push in the valve just a little to make sure it's sitting within the tyre, then "work" the tyre on the rim to make sure it's sitting evenly all round, judging by the circles on the tyre walls near the rim edge that are provided for this purpose. Now pump the tyre, slowly at first to ensure it sits evenly, finally bringing it to full pressure. Replace the wheel in the fork dropouts and tighten the wheel nuts evenly to secure it. Replace the brake cable that you disconnected, turn the bike back over and operate the brake lever a few times to align the brake. If necessary reset the cable adjustment on the lever.
Job done. As this will be your first time, that's enough for now, best come back when you are ready and feel confident to tackle for the more complex rear wheel details, which involve motor cables and associated parts.
P.S. I've just seen Ian's good advice in addition which will also be a very helpful source to learn all aspects from, but I'm happy to follow with details on the rear wheel as the manual is not exactly fulsome in this respect. I've had the Quando II's rear wheel out several times, changed tyres and tubes, and also stripped the motor so can give any advice necessary.
.
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Thank you for your detailed instructions. But I forgot tp mention that its my rear wheel that is punctured. However, I suppose i can have some practice with the working front wheel first. I think I will need to get a bicycle lever and a pump, but can you tell me what the former is?
I have had a read at the manual and this is what is said:
First secure the bike carfully firmly on a rack. cut the nylon ties securing the cable from the motor hub and slide the cable down to provide adequate length for moving the rear wheel. Release all the nuts and bolts at the drop out, then seperate the wheel from the rear stays. Remove tyres from the right side of the wheel as the cables are on the left side.
When putting the wheel back on please ensure all the washers are in place, and the torque plate (there to prevent rotation of the motor hub axle) and the protection bracket for the cable are correctly in place. You need to hold the protection bracket firmly in place while tightening the bolts on 2 sides alternately.
On reinstalling the wheel make sure the chain is parallel and no inclined, this is adjusted with the tensioning screws on both sides of the drop out.
I do not quite understand the first paragraph about cutting the cable. Does this mean I need to replace the cables on reinstall?
I have had a read at the manual and this is what is said:
First secure the bike carfully firmly on a rack. cut the nylon ties securing the cable from the motor hub and slide the cable down to provide adequate length for moving the rear wheel. Release all the nuts and bolts at the drop out, then seperate the wheel from the rear stays. Remove tyres from the right side of the wheel as the cables are on the left side.
When putting the wheel back on please ensure all the washers are in place, and the torque plate (there to prevent rotation of the motor hub axle) and the protection bracket for the cable are correctly in place. You need to hold the protection bracket firmly in place while tightening the bolts on 2 sides alternately.
On reinstalling the wheel make sure the chain is parallel and no inclined, this is adjusted with the tensioning screws on both sides of the drop out.
I do not quite understand the first paragraph about cutting the cable. Does this mean I need to replace the cables on reinstall?
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It's not the cable that you cut, it's the plastic ties that secure the cable to the frame, in fact you should take great care not to cut the cable.
You will need to replace the ties after you re-fit the wheel. There will most probably have been some replacements supplied with the bike, usualy in the bag with the manual and spare fuses.
Additional cable ties are available from DIY shops or electronics suppliers such as Maplins..
Ian.
I'm not surprised Andy, those instructions fit the Torq very nicely in every respect, but not in any way your Quando! You have no anti-rotation torque plate. This sort of mix up can happen all too easily when Chinese is translated to English.
The cable ties are the nylon loops holding the electrical cable against the frame rail, and some will have to be cut to allow enough slack for you to work on the wheel. You naturally don't cut the electrical cable.
Just start with turning the bike upside down and my brake disconnection instruction which they haven't mentioned, and proceed from there. Remove the angled plate that protects the cables where they emerge from the spindle, by undoing the two screws that secure the plate and the associated carrier support and mudguard stay. Then cut the ties to free the cable, undo the wheel nuts but don't entirely remove them if you can help it, and note which washers go inside the frame and which go outside. Be careful not to stress the electrical cable as you undo the wheel nut on that side, and avoid extreme twisting of it which could snap a cable internally. It's sometimes necessary to let air out of the tyre to allow the wheel to go far enough forward to be released from the frame dropout slots.
Then follow my tyre removal and replacement instructions and re-assemble the wheel in the frame, ending with securing the brake. You probably have had some new cable ties supplied with your bike, but if not, let me know and I'll post a few to you.
P.S. I see my posting has crossed Ian's again!
The cable ties are the nylon loops holding the electrical cable against the frame rail, and some will have to be cut to allow enough slack for you to work on the wheel. You naturally don't cut the electrical cable.
Just start with turning the bike upside down and my brake disconnection instruction which they haven't mentioned, and proceed from there. Remove the angled plate that protects the cables where they emerge from the spindle, by undoing the two screws that secure the plate and the associated carrier support and mudguard stay. Then cut the ties to free the cable, undo the wheel nuts but don't entirely remove them if you can help it, and note which washers go inside the frame and which go outside. Be careful not to stress the electrical cable as you undo the wheel nut on that side, and avoid extreme twisting of it which could snap a cable internally. It's sometimes necessary to let air out of the tyre to allow the wheel to go far enough forward to be released from the frame dropout slots.
Then follow my tyre removal and replacement instructions and re-assemble the wheel in the frame, ending with securing the brake. You probably have had some new cable ties supplied with your bike, but if not, let me know and I'll post a few to you.
P.S. I see my posting has crossed Ian's again!
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It is perhaps worth adding that a tyre does not have to be replaced simply because it is punctured, most people remove one side of the tyre from the rim whilst still in the bike, allowing the inner tube to be partially extracted and repaired by sticking a patch over the leak. While this may sound crude it usualy results in a inexpensive but permanent repair that can easily be done at the roadside. A good book will explain how to do this this in pictures. It is very important though to remove the object that caused the puncture (often a thorn) from the tyre.
PS I've just found this article that may help.
PPS I'll post this only to find Flecc has beaten me to it
PS I've just found this article that may help.
PPS I'll post this only to find Flecc has beaten me to it
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I can't help wondering why you keep taking the Quando rear wheel out Flecc, not punctures I'm sure. People might start thinking your top secret project has something to do with it.. we wait in anticipation.Sorry Ian, but I've had a Quando II back wheel in and out so many times in recent weeks that I could probably do it sleepwalking! I don't even have to think before typing how.
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