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How to slime a Presta valve tyre?

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Well had my first puncture.

 

Fixed it ok.

 

Have been trying to get slime in the tubes, is there a special way.

 

The pipe on my bottle seems too be too big so as much comes out the sides as goes in the tube.

 

Yes the tubes are deflated!

 

Green snot everywhere.

  • Author

Well I have a £2.99 tyre repair kit that I am patting myself on the back for using.

 

Not quite done 600 miles on these Rapid Robs so would like to use what I have then upgrade when no nobbles left?

Well had my first puncture.

 

Fixed it ok.

 

Have been trying to get slime in the tubes, is there a special way.

 

The pipe on my bottle seems too be too big so as much comes out the sides as goes in the tube.

 

Yes the tubes are deflated!

 

Green snot everywhere.

 

You need to have the type of presta valve that the whole central core can be removed, unscrewed.

There's normally a two flats visible for pliers or tiny spanner below the little pip.

 

 

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

  • Author
The valve nut is really tight on there, I thought it would break if I turned it more so been trying with valve pressed in.
The valve nut is really tight on there, I thought it would break if I turned it more so been trying with valve pressed in.

It could be all one piece? The type that cannot be unscrewed.

 

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

It could be all one piece? The type that cannot be unscrewed.

 

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

A presta to shraeder adapter might work but be a bit slow?

 

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

In a phrase, don't do it. If you get a puncture with slime in, it'll get you home-and then you need to replace everything because it cannot be fixed.

 

Get a puncture resistant tyre. Expensive but worth it.

In a phrase, don't do it. If you get a puncture with slime in, it'll get you home-and then you need to replace everything because it cannot be fixed.

 

And often not even get you home either, slime often fails to seal since puncture types vary so widely.

.

And often not even get you home either, slime often fails to seal since puncture types vary so widely.

.

 

quite right.

  • Author

Oh, everything green and snotty for nothing.

 

Ok, I think a spare tube is the only answer then as I was miles from home and it was a side wall thorn that went down really quickly.

 

Luckily International Rescue 4 was on hand to come and fetch me.

 

How do you fix a flat in the dark anyway?

by riding it home, accepting the shite handling and extra friction or by leaving it in a darkened place, locking it up, and calling a taxi.

 

Or by keeping a head torch with you.

 

How do you fix a flat in the dark anyway?

 

 

In the bad old days when I was running a tube set up, unless the puncture was somewhere obvious, I would just stick another tube in and be done with it.

 

You might possibly need to think about replacing those tyres though. The Racing Ralphs that they are based upon, are actually a very good tyre and I still run one on the pedal mtb along with a Rocket Ron.

The downside of the Racing Ralph is that it is a very thin lightweight tyre, and suffers from punctures. Whilst the Rapid Robs have the extra protection added, I very much doubt that they are really going to give much protection.

Sadly this is a bad time of year with the hedges starting to be cut, and thorns can be a real issue.

If you don't want to replace the tyres or go tubeless if it is compatible, you could look into buying a more heavy duty inner tube. I suspect that if you are still running the OE tubes, that they are more than likely very thin lightweight tubes.

Oh, everything green and snotty for nothing.

 

How do you fix a flat in the dark anyway?

With your eyes closed.

  • Author
In the bad old days when I was running a tube set up, unless the puncture was somewhere obvious, I would just stick another tube in and be done with it.

 

You might possibly need to think about replacing those tyres though. The Racing Ralphs that they are based upon, are actually a very good tyre and I still run one on the pedal mtb along with a Rocket Ron.

The downside of the Racing Ralph is that it is a very thin lightweight tyre, and suffers from punctures. Whilst the Rapid Robs have the extra protection added, I very much doubt that they are really going to give much protection.

Sadly this is a bad time of year with the hedges starting to be cut, and thorns can be a real issue.

If you don't want to replace the tyres or go tubeless if it is compatible, you could look into buying a more heavy duty inner tube. I suspect that if you are still running the OE tubes, that they are more than likely very thin lightweight tubes.

 

Once I had the tyre off the side walls are more like canvas than rubber.

 

They are really strong as I have given them a lot of stick and would quite happily buy them again as they have been so good.

 

Just the puncture thing brought the possibility of being stranded up.

 

Another thing I now need to carry is glasses.

Oh, everything green and snotty for nothing.

 

Ok, I think a spare tube is the only answer then as I was miles from home and it was a side wall thorn that went down really quickly.

 

Luckily International Rescue 4 was on hand to come and fetch me.

 

How do you fix a flat in the dark anyway?

Slowly whilst keeping an eye out for doggers

My bike came with knobbly Nicks so I put 2 slime tubes in and after 900 miles no punctures as yet.

Do you need special wheels for tubeless?

My bike came with knobbly Nicks so I put 2 slime tubes in and after 900 miles no punctures as yet.

Do you need special wheels for tubeless?

 

I wouldn't worry until you start having punctures. It seems pointless to change unless you need to. Obviously changing has advantages, but I can't really think that you currently need to worry.

 

If you do decide to change, and your wheel set is tubeless compatible, just make sure that you buy the right width of rim tape to suit your rim.

 

Your rim is also more likely to use a Presta Valve, not a Schrader as SW has linked to. Check this first before buying anything.

Edited by EddiePJ

I wouldn't worry until you start having punctures. It seems pointless to change unless you need to. Obviously changing has advantages, but I can't really think that you currently need to worry.

 

If you do decide to change, and your wheel set is tubless compatible, just make sure that you buy the right width of rim tape to suit your rim.

 

Your rim is also more likely to use a Presta Valve, not a Schrader as SW has linked to.

Sounds like good advice.. but as someon has pointed out it nearly puncture season..

Sadly very true, and thought just the same yesterday as I rode a narrow bridleway that had just had it's black thorn hedges cut. Prior to going tubeless, I had suffered two punctures the same time of year, on the same bridleway.

 

Perhaps just see how things work out.

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