How to fit this battery to this rack?

[Klang180]

Hello

Ok so in essence my question regards how I might get this battery to go on this rack so if you have great ideas you might want to skip the next bit but I felt it needed some context.

First up I would like to say I am disappointed with the quality of the battery mount. On my previous kit the mount had metal inserts which meant no problems making it secure to the frame. On this kit the mounts are plastic and so when tightening the screws you have to make sure you don't overtighten and go through the plastic, something I have now done. Second issue is that even if I hadn't done this the holes are too high up the rack mount and so the battery cannot fit into the frame (hence the rack idea). This is because the controller takes up the space further down the mount and so the holes are necessarily much higher up on the mounting plate. This bike isn't particularly small, being a medium men's and the bottle cage holes are at a decent place so I think this is more of an issue with the YP kit.

The best solution would be to return the battery and mount and get the rack mounted version especially as this bike would fit that however having now damaged the mounting frame and got it as part of a package including the wheel I am not sure they'd go for it. I will try though as I think the quality is pathetic and there is no way they should provide plastic mounting inserts for a relatively heavy battery!

So with that all out of the way does anyone have any ideas how best to secure this to the frame so that the battery is removable still? It is really quite hard to imagine how to do it as the mounting plate is so feeble and so low profile it is very hard to see how to really attach it, but I am all ears to any and all suggestions!

Thanks in advance and sorry for the long rant!

 

[egroover]

okay. so first thing, the battery should of come with metal washers, the same shape as the screw holes, check that they are not left in the box/packet...using these would of avoided the screw squashing the plastic
second thing, to mount the battery further up the frame downtube if the existing bottle cage holes are not in the right position you will need to drill a hole in the frame and insert a rivnut...you can get the tool and rivnuts from ebay for about £9 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384218178468?hash=item59753023a4:g:fdsAAOSwftNgxCug&LH_BIN=1
here;s how to do it

 

[Klang180]

okay. so first thing, the battery should of come with metal washers, the same shape as the screw holes, check that they are not left in the box/packet...using these would of avoided the screw squashing the plastic
second thing, to mount the battery further up the frame downtube if the existing bottle cage holes are not in the right position you will need to drill a hole in the frame and insert a rivnut...you can get the tool and rivnuts from ebay for about £9 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384218178468?hash=item59753023a4:g:fdsAAOSwftNgxCug&LH_BIN=1
here;s how to do it

Oh crap, too much enthusiasm and not enough consideration from me! I just found this little bag and can see that it would have saved the plastic!

Oh dear. Well at least they can still be used and it isn't terminal with these mounts so that is at least a good thing.

Thanks for the suggestion of making new holes but having put the battery on the rack I think it looks way better and would just feel more secure. So if anyone has suggestions then I am all ears!

Thanks again for your help, I feel quite the fool now.

 

[Encantador]

My mounting plate had the steel plate at the top, but also two holes inside the bottom section. I added two more rivnuts so was able to fasten it to the frame with 4 screws, 2 new at the top, and the two bottle holder holes at the bottom.

Can't see how you will get anywhere near as secure on the rack but this was my first conversion.

 

[vidtek]

@Klang180 -you dropped a Klanger! To fit to the rack just use a small piece of marine-grade plywood-go to your nearest boatyard/marina/river yard and look around, there will be lots lying about more than enough for a rack sized plate. Secure the ply to the rack and bolt the cradle to the ply. Easy - peasy with very little added weight and weatherproof.

 

[Klang180]

Thanks for your useful suggestions. I must admit I got creative and tried something myself and am quite pleased with the result. It seems very sturdy but time will tell. Check out the pictures and see what you think. I will need to monitor is closely but I am quite pleased with the result and the overall look too!

 

[vidtek]

Looks good. This is mine with the same battery pack and cradle.

 

[Klang180]

Looks good. This is mine with the same battery pack and cradle.View attachment 43434View attachment 43435

Ah see that was one of the issues with the downtube mount for me, it wouldn't fit with a front derailleur. That isn't an issue with a mid drive with no need for a derailleur at the front but is a bit of a problem for hub motors. As it happens you don't really need a front derailleur as you tend to not need the low down gears anymore but it is still a bit of a pain!

Nice kit though, how do you find the Tongsheng? Is it better than a hub motor of equivalent power?

 

[vidtek]

Ah see that was one of the issues with the downtube mount for me, it wouldn't fit with a front derailleur. That isn't an issue with a mid drive with no need for a derailleur at the front but is a bit of a problem for hub motors. As it happens you don't really need a front derailleur as you tend to not need the low down gears anymore but it is still a bit of a pain!

Nice kit though, how do you find the Tongsheng? Is it better than a hub motor of equivalent power?

I have tried the Sunbear front hub and the Freego Eagle with rear hub. The front hub drive I found to be like riding an under-powered moped, and was skittish up loose gravel hills bordering on dangerous. The rear hub was much better, and a much more stable ride, once again a bit like a moped, but the Eagle was under powered and struggled up hills.

The Tongsheng is far superior in all aspects for me. It feels natural, plenty of oomph, and with the inertia sensor it forces me to exert more effort when not using the throttle. With the throttle, a standing start is very easy, especially up an incline where I would struggle to get going at all with a normal bike, and once when my crank almost fell off and I couldn't pedal, I was able to get home 15 miles away on the throttle alone. I am sure the Bafang mid-drive equivalent would be almost as good.

The Bafang has a longer history and is easier to modify the software if you're into that sort of thing, but I honestly have found zero issues with the Tongsheng kit other than a battery terminal problem, easily fixed. To modify the software it is a bit harder than the Bafang, third-party open-source websites etc.

 

[JPGiant]

Klang, I'd use spring/lockwashers on the homemade bracket arrangement.

 

[Klang180]

Klang, I'd use spring/lockwashers on the homemade bracket arrangement.

Thanks JP I will get some of those, this is what I had at the time but I think you're right and thanks for the prompt.

 

[Klang180]

I have tried the Sunbear front hub and the Freego Eagle with rear hub. The front hub drive I found to be like riding an under-powered moped, and was skittish up loose gravel hills bordering on dangerous. The rear hub was much better, and a much more stable ride, once again a bit like a moped, but the Eagle was under powered and struggled up hills.

The Tongsheng is far superior in all aspects for me. It feels natural, plenty of oomph, and with the inertia sensor it forces me to exert more effort when not using the throttle. With the throttle, a standing start is very easy, especially up an incline where I would struggle to get going at all with a normal bike, and once when my crank almost fell off and I couldn't pedal, I was able to get home 15 miles away on the throttle alone. I am sure the Bafang mid-drive equivalent would be almost as good.

The Bafang has a longer history and is easier to modify the software if you're into that sort of thing, but I honestly have found zero issues with the Tongsheng kit other than a battery terminal problem, easily fixed. To modify the software it is a bit harder than the Bafang, third-party open-source websites etc.

Very interesting. My partner (for whom this bie is for) is already talking about wanting more oomph so I was vaguely thinking I might see how a mid mount goes, but we'll see for now. Need to give this kit a chance. I am still a bit worried about the 36v as I am used to 48v but time will tell.

Thanks for the info though, will bear that in mind!

 

[vidtek]

Very interesting. My partner (for whom this bie is for) is already talking about wanting more oomph so I was vaguely thinking I might see how a mid mount goes, but we'll see for now. Need to give this kit a chance. I am still a bit worried about the 36v as I am used to 48v but time will tell.

Thanks for the info though, will bear that in mind!

If your partner doesn't want to put too much effort into the ride, then that is catered for on almost all e-bikes. They usually have a sliding scale of assist levels. With the Tongsheng, if I crank it to the 5th level I hardly have to put in any effort at all to go to 15mph. on the lower levels effort is correspondingly increased as you go down the levels. This is the way most e-bikes work.
I heartily recommend having a throttle with whatever kit you buy. I use it for a standing start then switch off if on level ground. It is also a great safety feature at traffic lights on the road, where a slow wobbly start can land you in a great deal of trouble.
Tony

 

[Klang180]

If your partner doesn't want to put too much effort into the ride, then that is catered for on almost all e-bikes. They usually have a sliding scale of assist levels. With the Tongsheng, if I crank it to the 5th level I hardly have to put in any effort at all to go to 15mph. on the lower levels effort is correspondingly increased as you go down the levels. This is the way most e-bikes work.
I heartily recommend having a throttle with whatever kit you buy. I use it for a standing start then switch off if on level ground. It is also a great safety feature at traffic lights on the road, where a slow wobbly start can land you in a great deal of trouble.
Tony

The kit has a throttle and I have fitted it. I guess having just taken it out myself I was a bit underwhelmed by the performance. I have a 2yr old Yosepower 350w rear hub kit with a 48v battery and it just has a lot more push, I guess that is the extra voltage but I thought given that my partner is 55kg and I am 85kg that the difference would be compensated, and to be fair it might be.

I agree on the throttle. I put my bike in PAS 3 all the time but use the throttle to pull away and when I need to dip into the power a bit more, it is a huge bonus in traffic or pulling away. I can be metres clear by the time the driver behind me has even pulled away!

 

[StuartsProjects]

Ah see that was one of the issues with the downtube mount for me, it wouldn't fit with a front derailleur. That isn't an issue with a mid drive with no need for a derailleur at the front but is a bit of a problem for hub motors. As it happens you don't really need a front derailleur as you tend to not need the low down gears anymore but it is still a bit of a pain!

I was out on a steep hill last week 450m of 1:10 to 1:5.

With a 250w rear hub motor providing some 550w of power on assist level 5 I was able to pedal up the 1:5, despite being somewhat unfit and heavy.

I did need to go down to the 22t ring on the front 3 speed derailleur, but without this low gear, there is no way I would have been able to pedal up the hill.

 

[Klang180]

I was out on a steep hill last week 450m of 1:10 to 1:5.

With a 250w rear hub motor providing some 550w of power on assist level 5 I was able to pedal up the 1:5, despite being somewhat unfit and heavy.

I did need to go down to the 22t ring on the front 3 speed derailleur, but without this low gear, there is no way I would have been able to pedal up the hill.

Oh there is no doubt it is massively helpful and a real game changer but I guess coming from the 48v it just felt a little less gutsy. It will probably be fine and to be honest for £400 the kit isn't bad at all.