That is already on my plans as when i disassembled the bike entirely to clean it i was trying to see where the speed sensor was and it was either inside the main connector from the controller to the bike (that sits outside the frame, next to the back wheel) or the motor.Well done everyone.
Now see if you can hack the speed limit. One guy has already done it, but it could be tidied up with a bit more code and another input and output. He did it by splicing in to the speed sensor wire in the motor cable and using a speed sensor on the crank, which gave about 1/3 of the normal speed signal frequency. The only problem was the LCD showed the meaningless crank speed instead of the bike speed.
If you could cut the white wire and use the motor side as the input and the controller side as the ouput, then use a simple routine to read the pulse frequency and output it at 5/8 of the frequency, the 16 mph limit would become 25 mph, which is probably above the motor's max speed, and the LCD set to km/hr would actually be miles/hr.
Apart from just adding a throttle, this device could be very useful to give an alternative to the very unreliable torque sensor. just having the throttle will at least keep people going, but it would be brilliant if you could connect a normal PAS too to get a mid level power that can be over-ridden by the throttle.
All this is what the Speedict used to do. Read this if you want some ideas:
you need one with an on/off button for safety in case the throttle gets jammed.That’s awesome I’m going to aim to get a finished product on my bike tomorrow had to order another throttle.
Good shout can you recommend any?you need one with an on/off button for safety in case the throttle gets jammed.
unfortunately, there is some sort of comms between the battery and controller, so upgrading would be complicated. Another project could be to reverse engineer the comms code and send it from the arduino. Somebody did that for the Yamaha system.A note I'm adding here for the future of de-restricting the bike.
I calculated that the carrera battery at 36V 8ah will last about 15 miles for the average rider on throttle all the time and today i can conclude that its correct.
If we manage to de-restrict the bike we need to upgrade the bike as it will deplete its energy way quicker, what i also noticed is that the battery has other connectors going to the controller with other voltages so this is a bit interesting why the controller is getting other types of power instead of just the main lines.
That is indeed bad news.unfortunately, there is some sort of comms between the battery and controller, so upgrading would be complicated. Another project could be to reverse engineer the comms code and send it from the arduino. Somebody did that for the Yamaha system.
Probably a bit more. One of the problems with these system including comms is that the details of what it communicated and how is generally not publicly available.That is indeed bad news.
Would the comms be a battery level check or something more?
Here is mine (3d printed box):What’s the best way to hide the Arduino?? I’m trying to work out where I can squeeze it I want to avoid getting an enclosure but I may have to! Maybe a small waterproof junction box