How i can increase max speed of my bike?
- Thread starter crazymaster
- Start date
Today i tried to disconnect one of the plugs which goes to the motor(the tree small cables)
I didnt noticed much difference, i went up to 25-26km/h i think that before that i was a few km below that. What these cables do?
Also what the ENACTMENT pins? what they do if i connect them?
I didnt noticed much difference, i went up to 25-26km/h i think that before that i was a few km below that. What these cables do?
Also what the ENACTMENT pins? what they do if i connect them?
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your bike does not have a speed limiter, it won't go faster than now.
D8veh has already explained, your bike won't go faster until you change the controller and the LED panel for a new one with an LCD and a speedometer. Even then, the motor on your bike won't go much faster than now because it is wound for 15mph. To make the motor spin faster, you need to run it at 36V instead of 24V. You will need a new battery and even then, you may burn your motor.
It's best to keep it as it is.
D8veh has already explained, your bike won't go faster until you change the controller and the LED panel for a new one with an LCD and a speedometer. Even then, the motor on your bike won't go much faster than now because it is wound for 15mph. To make the motor spin faster, you need to run it at 36V instead of 24V. You will need a new battery and even then, you may burn your motor.
It's best to keep it as it is.
Today i tried with one more 7ah battery on top of the 2*12v 15ah
Bike went up to 30-35km/h but battery finished just after a few minutes. And motor turned off after a few km. maybe the controller overheated...
Is it possible the problem to be because i unplugged the small cables which goes to the motor? I asked a few times what they do? I dont see any difference frim them?
And what Enactment pins do?
Bike went up to 30-35km/h but battery finished just after a few minutes. And motor turned off after a few km. maybe the controller overheated...
Is it possible the problem to be because i unplugged the small cables which goes to the motor? I asked a few times what they do? I dont see any difference frim them?
And what Enactment pins do?
Lishui do not want to say.
On some controllers, the pin is used to enable firmware update.
While i had the 3x12v batteries=total 36v, one time i think that i made mistake with positive and negative cable, also the original battery 24v was connected.
Now its not working, i checked and most of the cells are 0.2, 0.5v
Maybe they are completely damaged? Charging doesn't help
Now its not working, i checked and most of the cells are 0.2, 0.5v
Maybe they are completely damaged? Charging doesn't help
that's unfortunate. I and NealH did warn you that running a 24V kit at 36V may not last long.
It's spilled milk now, just try to fix it at a minimum cost.
First remove anything that you added and check the voltage of your battery. You have two 12V SLAs, make sure they are still OK. They should read 12V-14V each.
It's spilled milk now, just try to fix it at a minimum cost.
First remove anything that you added and check the voltage of your battery. You have two 12V SLAs, make sure they are still OK. They should read 12V-14V each.
D
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If you connect with the wrong polarity, you will blow the controller instantly. It normally goes with a pop and smoke. If you didn't hear or see anything, you might have been saved by the fuse, so check that if you have one.
I already told you that the three extra wires are a speed or temperature sensor. You have to test the signal wire to see which of the two it is.
I already told you that the three extra wires are a speed or temperature sensor. You have to test the signal wire to see which of the two it is.
If you have blown the controller then now might be the time to upgrade the controller and lcd to 36v cost about £ 50 - £100 if you want to continue, If you weren't sure then a simple volt meter would have been of use.
With new controller etc , wire connectors may be different and wire sequence may not be correct so some soldering and changing may l be needed but going by your previous mishap, lack of experience and knowledge it is more likely a step to far. Unless of course you don't mind learning from your own mistakes to keep funding them.
With new controller etc , wire connectors may be different and wire sequence may not be correct so some soldering and changing may l be needed but going by your previous mishap, lack of experience and knowledge it is more likely a step to far. Unless of course you don't mind learning from your own mistakes to keep funding them.
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I am not exactly sure what burned the original battery... maybe its that i connected it to the 36V second battery?
Controller is still working. Today i will buy 2 new 12v Batteries.
d8veh, as i see from the PCB temperature pins are not soldered... or thats something different?
Is it possible the motor to not work after a few seconds/km with the 36V because i didnt connected these pins? Or just the battery was finished very fast? (in a few km)
I still wonder why batteries finished so fast... is it because the 3rd 12v battery i used was only 7AH not 15AH ?
Controller is still working. Today i will buy 2 new 12v Batteries.
d8veh, as i see from the PCB temperature pins are not soldered... or thats something different?
Is it possible the motor to not work after a few seconds/km with the 36V because i didnt connected these pins? Or just the battery was finished very fast? (in a few km)
I still wonder why batteries finished so fast... is it because the 3rd 12v battery i used was only 7AH not 15AH ?
Batteries in series need to be of equal capacity, the two higher capacity ones will shag the smaller one rendering it useless.
Not quite , same effect but different process. . The lower capacity battery will lose its energy first, it's internal resistance will increase as the free charge is used up and stop any power going to the motor . The other batteries will just sit there only half discharged..
If you fit a switch which disconnects the empty battery and. Joins the two other batteries back into use, then they will supply additional power, at a lower voltage, until they also are discharged..
My answer was in the simplistic laymen's view and that op would be using a 36v controller , the IR increase will show up by means of greater voltage sag and capacity loss over time and as I put it will shag the battery.
In Danidl example it would only work with a 24v controller and the lower lvc threshold.
In Danidl example it would only work with a 24v controller and the lower lvc threshold.
I wonder is there any difference between lead acid chargers and li lon chargers ?
is it the same if i use my current original charger for the li lon battery for the lead acid batteries or i need to buy special lead acid battery charger? or they are the same?
is it the same if i use my current original charger for the li lon battery for the lead acid batteries or i need to buy special lead acid battery charger? or they are the same?
So i MUST buy lead acid charger for these batteries?
Right now am i charging the batteries up to 100% with the li lon charger?
Right now am i charging the batteries up to 100% with the li lon charger?
they don't charge with the same profile.
Lithium Ion batteries need intelligent CC/CV charging.
SLA batteries don't. Plus, 36V SLA can take much higher voltage before they start gassing. An SLA charger can easily go over 42V and you will say goodbye to your Lithium battery.
Lithium Ion batteries need intelligent CC/CV charging.
SLA batteries don't. Plus, 36V SLA can take much higher voltage before they start gassing. An SLA charger can easily go over 42V and you will say goodbye to your Lithium battery.
The situation here is that i charge SLA batteries with li lon charger. so as i understand you i cant fully charge the batteries with it?
the Lithium ion charger is intelligent, you won't blow up your battery with it but it charges to about 90% of the capacity of your SLA.
Just don't plug any cheap SLA charger into your Lithium battery.
Just don't plug any cheap SLA charger into your Lithium battery.