Hiya.

[Oldmanriver]

Hiya all.

i am an old git who has decided to convert my Scott Nitrous 10. i would like to end up doing a bafang kit but this will get me back out for now, if it works well i will put it onto my wife's in the future.

I have bought a rear hub set up, Voilamart 1500 watt with built in controller, the wiring is so easy without an external controller, they have done a good job on the design of the wiring set up imo. I had a wee bit of a struggle with the back wheel but all is in place now and the bike rides like normal, i am awaiting the battery which should be here in 5 days, 48 v 18 ah with Panasonic cells. cannot wait.

I am having a problem with the PAS, i have a hollowtech 2 bottom bracket , as you can see in the pics there is no room on the crank for it.

Any ideas?

 

[Amoto65]

Ridiculous motor which is totally illegal.

 

[Oldmanriver]

Ridiculous motor which is totally illegal.

Thanks for that.

 

[soundwave]

Ridiculous motor which is totally illegal.

i know that thing is tiny lol, but tbh hub motors dont work well on fs bikes esp off road hammering as spokes wont last long.

id post in this forum so all the snails dont moan at you

Speed Pedelecs General Discussion

Discussions concerning speed pedelecs, motor propulsion beyond 15mph or maximum power outputs above 250w, or e-bikes being used in other countries.

www.pedelecs.co.uk

or stick a post on here.

Endless Sphere - Index page

 

[Oldmanriver]

i know that thing is tiny lol, but tbh hub motors dont work well on fs bikes esp off road hammering as spokes wont last long.

id post in this forum so all the snails dont moan at you

Speed Pedelecs General Discussion

Discussions concerning speed pedelecs, motor propulsion beyond 15mph or maximum power outputs above 250w, or e-bikes being used in other countries.

www.pedelecs.co.uk

or stick a post on here.

Endless Sphere - Index page

Thank you.

I will not be whissing about on it, i have put a lot of weight on in the last few years, now 18.5 stone, my logic was that the bigger motor would help carrying the extra weight. I live in rural Scotland, i only intend riding through forrest tracks where i feel safe. to be perfectly honest i did not even know about the restriction of 250 watts, some people would be tampering with settings trying to go faster, that is not for me.

 

[soundwave]

well if you do turn it up just be careful you dont try pull to many amps from the batt esp if it is on your back as can turn in to a fire ball if you dont have high discharge cells in a pack big enough to handle to load and not overheat.

my bosch motor is 250w @ 15.5mph but under this speed limit i can pull as much as 800w climbing hills or with a dongle to remove the speed limit on the flat.

 

[Oldmanriver]

well if you do turn it up just be careful you dont try pull to many amps from the batt esp if it is on your back as can turn in to a fire ball if you dont have high discharge cells in a pack big enough to handle to load and not overheat.

my bosch motor is 250w @ 15.5mph but under this speed limit i can pull as much as 800w climbing hills or with a dongle to remove the speed limit on the flat.

I will not be turning it up, the battery will be on the underside of the downtube, 48v 18ah. as i said i live on the edge of the Pentland Hills, i want to get out off road and enjoy the fantastic scenery.

 

[soundwave]

I will not be turning it up, the battery will be on the underside of the downtube, 48v 18ah. as i said i live on the edge of the Pentland Hills, i want to get out off road and enjoy the fantastic scenery.

id turn it up i have been rolling round like that for 5 years

 

[Nealh]

You have the wrong PAS for hollowtech it's as simple as that.
You need a two piece PAS to fit on the RHS.

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[Fat Rat]

Hi welcome to the site

 

[Benjahmin]

Hi and welcome.
I'm not going to bang on about illegality, however I do think you have the wrong motor for what you say you want to do.
Yours is a direct drive motor which, at low revs will pull a lot of current, turning most of it into heat, so wasting valuable battery capacity, as the controller is built in then this could also suffer.
These motors are very inefficient at low speeds. They are good on flat roads where a high speed can be maintained, but not good at stop start or hill climbing.
The high power rating is merely the continuous power it can stand without overheating/burning. It has nothing to do with the useful power that is turned into rotary motion.
Your battery should ideally be capable of a discharge current that is 1.5 times that of the controllers maximum. So if controller is 30A (nominally 1080W), battery should be capable of 45A. In order to give kind of useful range this will be very big, heavy and expensive.
You would be better with either a crank drive (not sure if they fit hollowtech) or a geared rear hub. Rated at a lowly 250W they can, and will, pull 720 watts when backed by a 20A controller. When you consider that professional racing cyclists have outputs of 3-400watts measured when hill climbing, this is not so tardy.
You will save a hell of a lot of motor weight, and a lot of battery expense and weight. The bike would be way more agile on your forest tracks.
However, good luck and I hope you enjoy your build. Let us know how you get on.

 

[Nealh]

Hollowtech/Sram GPX BB fit the same size BB shell as a square taper most bikes use the English BB thread size of 33.6mm and shell size of about 34mm.

 

[Oldmanriver]

id turn it up i have been rolling round like that for 5 years
View attachment 35262

Thanks for the reply and suggestions.

Brilliant, nice bike, looks sleek.

I will want it to last for as long as possible as far as range is concerned, i have little clue about the electronic side of things so "Turning it up" means little to me at this stage. I mountain'd bike before for many years, i always enjoyed travelling off road rather than downhilling, climbing was more fun for me, I never had the reaction skills for technical downhilling, so avoided it.

 

[Oldmanriver]

You have the wrong PAS for hollowtech it's as simple as that.
You need a two piece PAS to fit on the RHS.

Ebike KT BZ-10C PAS System Pedal Assistant Sensor 10 Magnets [KT BZ-10C PAS] - $5.00 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

Zen Cart! Ebike KT BZ-10C PAS System Pedal Assistant Sensor 10 Magnets [KT BZ-10C PAS] - ★★★★★ Ebike KT BZ-10C PAS System Pedal Assistant Sensor 10 Magnets 1--Cable Length:80cm 2--Plug:SM Male or SM Female or Julet waterproof Plug 3--Brand: KT Single Hall Sensor Note: SM Male Plug fit all our...

www.topbikekit.com

BZ-10C PAS System Pedal Assistant Sensor 10 Magnets For Hollowtech Crank Crankset Ebike Conversion Kit Part - AliExpress 18

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Thank you Nealh.

I will have a look at that option.

 

[Oldmanriver]

Hi welcome to the site

Thanks.

 

[Oldmanriver]

Hi and welcome.
I'm not going to bang on about illegality, however I do think you have the wrong motor for what you say you want to do.
Yours is a direct drive motor which, at low revs will pull a lot of current, turning most of it into heat, so wasting valuable battery capacity, as the controller is built in then this could also suffer.
These motors are very inefficient at low speeds. They are good on flat roads where a high speed can be maintained, but not good at stop start or hill climbing.
The high power rating is merely the continuous power it can stand without overheating/burning. It has nothing to do with the useful power that is turned into rotary motion.
Your battery should ideally be capable of a discharge current that is 1.5 times that of the controllers maximum. So if controller is 30A (nominally 1080W), battery should be capable of 45A. In order to give kind of useful range this will be very big, heavy and expensive.
You would be better with either a crank drive (not sure if they fit hollowtech) or a geared rear hub. Rated at a lowly 250W they can, and will, pull 720 watts when backed by a 20A controller. When you consider that professional racing cyclists have outputs of 3-400watts measured when hill climbing, this is not so tardy.
You will save a hell of a lot of motor weight, and a lot of battery expense and weight. The bike would be way more agile on your forest tracks.
However, good luck and I hope you enjoy your build. Let us know how you get on.

Thanks for the advice.

This sort of advice is invaluable, I wish i had joined before i made the purchase to be honest, but hey ho. I will sort of suck it and see with what i have bought, the possible overheating is a bit of a concern, maybe the Scottish freezing summers will help the cooling!

I feel like i am starting a Open University course in Ebike Learning, that is going to add to the fun.

Like most things in life, if i knew what i needed to know when i needed to know it, i would have done things differently.

Thanks for the support and welcome.

 

[Nealh]

I suspect you will be back OMR with concerns about your battery performance at some time, that is another ball game.

 

[Oldmanriver]

I suspect you will be back OMR with concerns about your battery performance at some time, that is another ball game.

I might just go on a diet and get the legs working, they never overheat these days.

 

[Oldmanriver]

On the left side of the spindle, it is threaded internally for the plastic end cap, i have thought about finding a bolt that would be the same thread, insert that leaving the head of the bolt acting as a small extension which once filed down would allow the pedal to be clamped securely.

Any thoughts on the thread size?

 

[Oldmanriver]

I got a pal to turn me this bolt, i think this will solve the issue and allow me to clamp the crank arm securely on top of the head of the bolt. It needs to be sized down a wee bit more but when its in its solid.