I'm sorry but I have to ask, is the tsdz2's controller limit set to 15A, 16A, 18A, 20A or 22A?
Hills near me...
- Thread starter Bogmonster666
- Start date
Not sure if I will need to go here but if I do decide I need lower gearing I think I would go this route rather than 9 speed with big gaps or spendy 11 speed.
Presumably you bought the aftermarket spider and chainrings? Did your existing front derailleur work or did you need to do something different. I see some folks use a direct mount front derailleur with a spacer.
How is the chainline - in the larger chainwheel, presumably that is restricted to use on the smaller cogs due to chainline?
My 48v tsdz was set to 12a , with the OSF I have upped it to 14a. Though I don't use 48v but 12s 44v.
Withthe OSF parameters one can change the settings to suit the battery used, so wh can be input and series used. Also one can input the 6x voltage readings at which the battery bar segments disappear so that they first one or two don't hang on for dear life then you find suddenly the last ones disappear in quick time.
I have to say as of yet of haven't ventured out of ECO mode as I find it has enough power for my needs.
Withthe OSF parameters one can change the settings to suit the battery used, so wh can be input and series used. Also one can input the 6x voltage readings at which the battery bar segments disappear so that they first one or two don't hang on for dear life then you find suddenly the last ones disappear in quick time.
I have to say as of yet of haven't ventured out of ECO mode as I find it has enough power for my needs.
I done a DIY cheap job using available spare parts. The only thing I bought was the steel 34t chainring for about 10 euro. I had a spare 44t from an old 27 inch sports/racer. I used a spare front derailleur from a steel mtb which has a longer reach due to the smaller seat tube. I reshaped the clamp and fitted a longer bolt as shown in photo below. The rear freewheel cluster is rearranged as 14:16:19:24:34 and the chainline is very good on the 34 front chainwheel. The 44 front chainline is adequate as I do not use the 34 rear and only occasionally use with 24t rear with this chainring.
I could improve the setup as there is 6mm spare clearance between the mid drive housing and the chainstay of the hybrid (which is not as wide as an mtb). To do this, I would have to cut say 5mm of the bottom bracket tube and put a spacer on the non drive side. But this would mean the bike could not be restored.
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As far as I know 18A is the maximum you can set the controller of the Tongsheng which is the maximum sustained power for hill climbing etc. Anything beyond that would be momentary surge/peak as motors pull in more current initially. When you set to 18A that is the sustained maximum current but that shouldn't be confused with peak current which happens because motors draw in more power at different times. The Tongsheng motor is smaller high rpm motor compared to hub motors so its peak is lower I believe as there is less rotating mass in the motor. As its a torque sensor based motor it relies on maximum torque being applied to the sensor for it to enable the full 18A current for most riding it will be significantly less. It scales power based on readings from the torque sensor. A scenario could be you are using the ebike off-road and suddenly you have a hill to climb so your torque applied goes really high at the sensor and then the motor controller draw peaks at lets say 22A before quickly settling back to 18A after a few seconds as you grind/mash up the hill. You have to put extra power/energy in to get the motor up to speed.
Unusual rear cluster set up there Sturmey, cant't say I have seen them in reverse before.
What was the reasoning behind it, chainline and gear selection ?
What was the reasoning behind it, chainline and gear selection ?
It looks like @Sturmey has created a 2 X 5 offset to the right. 10 out of 10 for ingenuity on the custom cluster, and the long reach front derailleur.
I am curious if an un-dished 1 x 36t or similar would completely destroy my chainline. I guess there is one way to find out. My BB shell is strangely offset to the left anyway (original front derailleur bracket was part of BB) so my chainline will probably be a bit better.
When you rearrange the gear cluster, the unused gears can to be put back as spacers as required. i.e. in my case only 5 out of the seven gears are used, the other gears are mere spacers. The stop screws are adjusted accordingly. Common practise with mid-drives to fix chainline and many think close ratio gearing is not necessary with power. e.g. quick search video below.
To get a few extra mm reach on your front deraillur, use a longer bolt on the bracket and pack something between it and right side frame e.g. cut about 90 degrees of thick plastic pipe and put between deraillur and frame.
I think the 34t steel is the smallest front chainring that easily works but you loose 5mm on the chainline as there is not enough room for the offset.
There are other and more expensive solutions that improve on this such as special lekkie chainring etc but i have no experience of these.
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