Help! Hi all, just bought a 'broken' ebike. Some help needed. Falcoln Turbine.

[UnclePuncher]

One assumes the gap is small, have you tried the back pedal to see if it works.

Yes. Very small and I can't see a way of adjusting it. Its a complete unit. Nothing to move.

Back pedaling doesn't cause the LED to blink.

 

[Nealh]

We still need to know the controller & display used as it may be a setting/parameter issue that may be wrong, if it allows changes.

 

[UnclePuncher]

We still need to know the controller & display used as it may be a setting/parameter issue that may be wrong, if it allows changes.

I linked the controller before but its here:

Pardon our interruption...

Display is one of these. Not much to it. The 6km/h button doesn't do anything.

Melodyblue Electric Bicycle Display 24V 36V 48V Ebike Ligent Control Panel Lcd Display LED880 Waterproof Controller for KT : Sports & Outdoors

Shop Melodyblue Electric Bicycle Display 24V 36V 48V Ebike Ligent Control Panel Lcd Display LED880 Waterproof Controller for KT. Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders.

www.amazon.co.uk

 

[Nealh]

I must have missed that somewhere, I highly suspect the reason PAS is not working is because of a setting/parameter issue. The KT controller has advanced parameters in the settings but one needs and lcd 3 or lcd4 to make those changes, the C1 value is likely set incorrectly for your PAS type. The KT controllers are factory set to a basic set up and then they can be tweaked later on depending on the ancillary parts used, if one buys a complete kit then they work out of the box.
The led880 allows for no changes in the set up and requires one of the displays I mentioned.

 

[UnclePuncher]

I must have missed that somewhere, I highly suspect the reason PAS is not working is because of a setting/parameter issue. The KT controller has advanced parameters in the settings but one needs and lcd 3 or lcd4 to make those changes, the C1 value is likely set incorrectly for your PAS type. The KT controllers are factory set to a basic set up and then they can be tweaked later on depending on the ancillary parts used, if one buys a complete kit then they work out of the box.
The led880 allows for no changes in the set up and requires one of the displays I mentioned.

Thanks Neal. I suspected it may be something like that. I'll look into getting a better display.

Looks like this is about the cheapest option. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265377600538

I'll have to have a bit of a look to see if it has the option to change the C1 value.

Could just buy a better one of course, but trying to keep costs down (this is meant to be a cheap bike for pub/shops etc...). Total spend so far is sub £300, which isn't bad for a year old bike that cost £1000-1200 when new (depending on where you bought it). Which is shocking considering the quality of some of the components.

 

[Nealh]

I use the same lcd4 on my new Cotic Roadrat bike build and it has all the settings to change the parameters, any KT lcd will be compatible they are plug and play.
One switches it on and within 5 seconds has to depress the up/down pads simultaneously for up to 10seconds then the basic values flash and appear, toggle through (quick depress of the larger on/off pad for each value) and set those correctly for wheel size, cut off speed and imperial or metric values. Once the last is done depress the up/down pads again to enter the P settings and adjust if needed (just ask if not sure of what they do) then when those five settings are done, again depress the two pads to enter the C settings (we can guide you thru them an d what they do).

I expect your PAS parameter is set for a generic two piece type PAS, where as your one looks like a on piece double hall type. The parameter is just a numeric value that need changing as all of them are, it's just knowing and understanding what effect any of them do when making changes.

 

[Nealh]

Once the parameters are all sorted and the bike is working one can revert to the 880led if it is preferred and all will be ok, the advantage of the lcd4 is it is tiny/discreet and one has 5 current/PAS levels for better control. Also a voltage display which is one of the main benefits to use as fuel gauge. The larger lcd4 has a clock, ambient temp display and watts output readings as extra's, both are very good but the introduction of the 4 means a minimalist cockpit look.

 

[UnclePuncher]

Fantastic. Thanks Neal. Much appreciated.

I was thinking of getting a better display at some point.

 

[UnclePuncher]

I bought this display. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-36-48V-KT-LCD4-LCD-Display-Panel-Meter-Controller-For-Electric-Bicycle-E-bike-/115125211579
Unfortunately they've sent me one with a female cable on (not male as per the listing). Looks like I'll have to return it and buy another. I could buy a cable to convert it or a new cable but for the sake of time and a few quid I don't think its worth it.

 

[UnclePuncher]

Display arrived yesterday. Fitted it and got it all setup.

Took a while to find the correct setting but C1-3 seems to be the best.

Definitely going to have to explore some of the other settings when I have some time. I've got 2 kids under 3 years old though so free time is a bit of a foreign concept to me.

Bike is ok. Still not sure if I'm keeping it. Figure I could sell this and pay the vast majority of a Bafang mid-drive system to go on one of my other bikes (that I actually enjoy riding).