Hi guys, now I'm pretty versatile and often have to think on my feet and will tackle most jobs however daunting apart from repairing the house roof haha but there are times when it's best to seek prior advice. PUNCTURE. Wheel in or out (rear hub drive) and how do you work on the bike upside down with all the handlebar gubbins attached... Glyn
HELP!!
- Thread starter Gliggsy
- Start date
Due to the wiring, it might be better to leave the wheel mounted, but do not turn the bike upside down! You will damage stuff.
There are special bike stands which can help in holding the rear wheel up for easy working. Generally they cost around 30 UK Pounds, for a cheap one from Aldi or similar.
This Guy is using one:-
Correct torque is also needed, and maybe a torque lock bracket (maybe wrong name!) added.
This is to help prevent the motor turning in the chain stays and ripping all the wiring out of the motor....difficult repair sometimes I am told!!!
Then you have to adjust the inner/outer nuts, to have full tightness, but total freedom for the bearings, no binding!
Which is why many do not take the wheel off!!
regards and I hope this helps.
Andy
PS. Many Youtube videos show the bike upside down, do this at your peril!
A lot of cyclists are using Gaadi inner tubes, with these you don't have to worry about removing the wheel.
Just cut the old tube out and push the new tube in, the wheel and it's wiring stays put.
I believe Halfords sell them cheaper than this store.
Just cut the old tube out and push the new tube in, the wheel and it's wiring stays put.
I believe Halfords sell them cheaper than this store.
I saw on another thread an idea to use bar ends so when you turn the bike upside down you have extra clearance for your display etc.
Below is what i have ordered.
Below is what i have ordered.
1 Pair Ergonomic MTB Mountain Bike Handlebar Rubber Grips Cycling Lock-On Ends | eBay
1 Pair Bicycle Handlebar Grip. Ergonomic handle design groove. The TPR rubber material is designed with anti-skip groove for cycling. Greatly enhance the bicycle exterior texture, and make your car more valuable sense.
www.ebay.co.uk
Turning the bike upside down is no problem. I used to do it all the time until I fitted puncture proof tyres.
If you're out on the road and get a puncture, find some grass to put your bike on. Pull the tyre off one side, patch it and put it back on again - about 10 mins work. Don't forget to pull the thorn/glass/nail out, otherwise you'll get another puncture straight away. I must have fixed fifty punctures like that and always been successful.
If I do it at home on a hard floor, I stick a couple of blocks of polystyrene under each grip to hold it clear of anything that's on the bars.
If you have hydraulic brakes and your reservoir has some air in it, the air can move into the pipe, and make your brakes go soft or spongy, but they're nearly all self-bleeding, so a few pumps of the lever will bring the air back onto the reservoir and restore your brakes to normal.
It's a good idea to put Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres on your bike. You'll most likely never get a puncture again. I haven't had one in 6 years since I fitted some.
If you're out on the road and get a puncture, find some grass to put your bike on. Pull the tyre off one side, patch it and put it back on again - about 10 mins work. Don't forget to pull the thorn/glass/nail out, otherwise you'll get another puncture straight away. I must have fixed fifty punctures like that and always been successful.
If I do it at home on a hard floor, I stick a couple of blocks of polystyrene under each grip to hold it clear of anything that's on the bars.
If you have hydraulic brakes and your reservoir has some air in it, the air can move into the pipe, and make your brakes go soft or spongy, but they're nearly all self-bleeding, so a few pumps of the lever will bring the air back onto the reservoir and restore your brakes to normal.
It's a good idea to put Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres on your bike. You'll most likely never get a puncture again. I haven't had one in 6 years since I fitted some.
I can't say I've ever carried one on a ride which is where most will encounter a puncture.
Well I gone n dun it, turned upside down with handlebars on a sack of building sand which luckily was to hand, upon inspection of the tyre I decided that a new one wouldn't go amiss so removed wheel carefully being aware of the motor wires, bit surprised there's no multi plug connection there. I'd already extracted the inner tube before turning bike over, looks like the tube had been nipped rather than punctured as it was a 4 mm nick on the inside radius of the tube ie valve side, close to rim, the other thing was the tube was awfully big on a 26 inch rim, it seems like it was actually doubled up for about 100mm go figure! Anyway l pick up a repair kit tomorrow and either wait for new tube n tyre to be delivered or do a repair. Got to say I like the idea of the gaadi, all the best ideas are the simple ones.. Glyn
Has anyone tried these tubes? looks as if it would be a bit awkward in practice. However if they work ok I'm definitely going to get one to carry with me. I've had about 4 rear punctures in the last 1.5 years.
I use Gaadi on my rear hub bikes and carry a spare as well.
The only issue I have is my tyres are so easy to fit by thumb pressure only, I have to lay the bike on it's side to refit said tyre as any pressure on it simply has it off the rim bead until air forces it to stay in place.
Gaadi won't prevent a puncture but saves faffing taking the hub wheel.
On a recent 112km ride I picked up two P's with them within 1/2hr, the first was a strange one. The P was in one of the abutting tube ends and a very slight slit so could have been a tube fault and pressure finding a weakness in the rubber ?
The second was thorn prickle about 6" from the valve.
Removal at the road side for repair can look a bit weird as you put air in to look for the fault manhandling a snake.
My last pair were £7.99 each + £3.50 p&p you have search many online bike shops for best price and grab a deal when they appear, I use Presta or Schrader as Presta's come with the stepped securing nut for the larger hole.
The only issue I have is my tyres are so easy to fit by thumb pressure only, I have to lay the bike on it's side to refit said tyre as any pressure on it simply has it off the rim bead until air forces it to stay in place.
Gaadi won't prevent a puncture but saves faffing taking the hub wheel.
On a recent 112km ride I picked up two P's with them within 1/2hr, the first was a strange one. The P was in one of the abutting tube ends and a very slight slit so could have been a tube fault and pressure finding a weakness in the rubber ?
The second was thorn prickle about 6" from the valve.
Removal at the road side for repair can look a bit weird as you put air in to look for the fault manhandling a snake.
My last pair were £7.99 each + £3.50 p&p you have search many online bike shops for best price and grab a deal when they appear, I use Presta or Schrader as Presta's come with the stepped securing nut for the larger hole.
Just fit the most bullet proof tyres you can on the bike and you will almost never get a puncture. On Schwalbe tyres with a rating of 6 or more, I've had one puncture in the last 14 years. That was a thorn (they are the worst!) in my front tyre.
With the lower ratings, I did get a piece of flint go through a Schwalbe City Jet tyre (rating of 3).
I generally don't bother carrying a repair kit or even a pump with me.
The Gaadi looks interesting.
Has anyone ever tried getting an oversized tube, cutting it with scissors and then supergluing it back together with an overlap? Superglue is excellent for gluing rubber.
With the lower ratings, I did get a piece of flint go through a Schwalbe City Jet tyre (rating of 3).
I generally don't bother carrying a repair kit or even a pump with me.
The Gaadi looks interesting.
Has anyone ever tried getting an oversized tube, cutting it with scissors and then supergluing it back together with an overlap? Superglue is excellent for gluing rubber.
I love schwalbe tyres and generally use marathon supreme (rating 5), but they dont stop thorns at hedge-cutting time if the weather is dry!
I don't get you guys with all these weird things. During my 10 years of ebiking, I must've fixed 100 punctures on my own and other people's bikes. I've never had one that I couldn't fix at the roadside with a simple puncture repair kit. One time, when I hit a pot-hole on my road bike, I got 3 snake-bite puncture at the same time. That's 6 cuts in the tube. The longest ones were about 1 cm long. I fixed them all and carried on my ride. Twice, I've had complete blow-outs where the tube blew out from under the tyre, leaving a large split in the tube, which I fixed with two overlapping patches.
I buy my puncture kits in bulk. It works out at about £1 each. The glue generally only lasts about two repairs, because once opened it dries out, so I then transfer all the remaining patches to the next kit, so I always have enough for whatever disaster strikes.
I fitted marathon Plus tyres to my electric bike 6 years ago. Since then, I've never had a puncture despite getting a three inch nail buried in my tyre two inches deep, so I don't carry a puncture repair kit anymore. Mysteriously, I can't say that I've had to help fix anybody else's punctures since I stopped carrying the kit; however, I still get punctures on my road bike and regularly have to help other people with punctures when I'm out on it.
I buy my puncture kits in bulk. It works out at about £1 each. The glue generally only lasts about two repairs, because once opened it dries out, so I then transfer all the remaining patches to the next kit, so I always have enough for whatever disaster strikes.
I fitted marathon Plus tyres to my electric bike 6 years ago. Since then, I've never had a puncture despite getting a three inch nail buried in my tyre two inches deep, so I don't carry a puncture repair kit anymore. Mysteriously, I can't say that I've had to help fix anybody else's punctures since I stopped carrying the kit; however, I still get punctures on my road bike and regularly have to help other people with punctures when I'm out on it.
That's why you don't need any of these "weird things", i.e you've had so much practise you can probably fix one in your sleep.
But for anyone less experienced, surely anything that makes the (tedious) process easier has gotta be a good thing....
1l of tubeless sealant last me 2 years and costs 20 quid and not had a flat tyre in 5 years and takes 5 mins to top up both tyres with a syringe so i dont even need the brake the tyre seal.
match that with schwalbe super gravity tyres for down hill and is pretty much bomb proof.
match that with schwalbe super gravity tyres for down hill and is pretty much bomb proof.
Some of us can sing and then there's others that are tone deaf, I've never been much good at punctures, always seem to leak from under the patch but then repair kit £3 or new tube £4 it's a no brainer but I will get better at it but only if I have to ps I'm a very skilled welder and I can't understand why everyone else isn't!
I have tried 2 ways to avoid mashing my various bells, switches, bottle rack and bike computers. One I use a bike hoist to lift the bike to a convenient height. Dropping the wheel out is easy but getting it back single handed is not. I had to detach the the gear changer to make things simpler. Only afterwards did I realise it was a Shimano SLX 10-Speed Shadow+ fitted with a 'clutch' which needs releasing by moving a lever thus making it easier to swing the changer out of the way! The other way is to use 2 axle stands, cheap enough, and turn over the bike and rest the handlebar grips on them. I use a strap to hold each grip to each stand so they won't lift off when working on the bike.
Good for you, but everyone has different technical and physical abilities. So don't see how this is relevant.
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