Help with replacing controller

Alan11222

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 11, 2020
18
3
Hi I'm new to the forum so hello to all .

The reason for my joining is to ask of anyone could help with changing the controller on my folding bike

I have looked on ebay and amazon and I'm having problems finding one that has the same connections,

I'm not sure what changes I have of finding a controller that will work my my digital display ?

I have attached pics if anyone can identify some of the wires that would be great

I believe the think wires are motor and battery connections

The x2 black plugs I'm assuming one is the hall and the other the led display ?
 

Attachments

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Nanjin are OEM supplied only afaik.
The connectors are different on controllers, usually you have to do some soldering to changes things over.
You might have yo change controllers KT or Lishui.
The pair SM2 Black/White are brake cut outs.
I see two SM5 wire connectors, one is led or lcd and the other is likely to be motor hall wires, follow the wiring to see which is which.
Battery thick Pink & Black,
Phase thick Y/G/B.
The pair of SM3's will be for PAS, throttle or speed sensor.
I assume your bike is PAS operated ?
 

Alan11222

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 11, 2020
18
3
Hi yes pas only no throttle , I have looked at all thr controllers on Ebay and amazon most do not seem to have a sm5 connection for the lcd ? Will I need to order a controller that comes with an lcd to make it work? Also most hall plugs seems to be 3+2 connection mine as you say is sm5 all in one line , I can cut and solder no problem but I have no understanding of hall wires unless colours are the same how woll I know what to connect to what?

Thanks for your detailed reply
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Hubs with motor hall have 3 + 5 or 3 + 6 smaller wires, 8 or 9 in total indicate it is a sensored hub the sixth hall which makes nine is for internal hub speed sensing,
 

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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Is this one any good ?
It looks alright but some of them are a bit crappy, no specs on current rating so might only be 10 or 12a. Has all the connectors for all peripherals, you may have to play with the hall connections as the connectors aren't the same though you can use any 5 or 6pin our male/female connector you find for sale, just match colour to colour.
One remark my a buyer was the PAS was wrongly wired, also they said you can't use both PAS or Throttle it is one or the other.

If you wanted too you could use the opportunity to upgrade to a controller with a LCD and five power levels for more control and more screen info, like odo, speed, watt power, voltage. This KT model with sleek small lcd4 is a good price.
You can opt for the 14a model or 22a one if your battery can handle more current.
In the settings you can reduce the 22a current rating by up to 50% so worth thinking about, the 14a is 6 fets and the 22a is 9 fets.
The brake wires are SM3 but you can use your brakes by not connecting the Red wires on the KT.
 
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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Or opt for the popular LCD3 & controller.

KT are very universal and many vendors sell them so should you break anything they are easy to get hold of and always compatible for spares.
The five KT power levels give you the following approx. % rates of current, 13%, 20%, 33%, 50% & 100%.
 
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Alan11222

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 11, 2020
18
3
Thanks so much for taking the time to help it's really been helpful appreciate it
 

Alan11222

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 11, 2020
18
3
Hi I'm back , fitted the controller and display and now I'm faced with a dilemma, as I purchased this bike faulty I have no idea how well it should go , having a haibike sduro myself I'm obviously not expecting anything special from this little folding bike 36v 250w rear hub but its worse than I thought , you have a walking assist button now if you press that the wheel turns but if i put slight pressure on it to create load it stops ? When riding on flat it will zoom away with minimal pedaling but any incline it seems strained , any ideas ? Thanks alan
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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The battery is likely no good or can't deliver the current load asked of it.
Using the C5 setting change the parameter value to 4 which is I think 50% current value and see if that helps first.
 

Alan11222

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 11, 2020
18
3
I have tested battery voltage 41.3 straight off the charger 41.1 4 days later , but that's o ly half the story I suppose, that doest test the capacity does it ?
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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No Alan is certainly doesn't, 4.13v is a tad low and does possibly indicate the battery may have higher cell IR and voltage may be sagging. You can temporary wire up a cheap £2 voltage gauge to see what occurs voltage wise when you ride the bike under load.
 

Alan11222

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 11, 2020
18
3
Ok that may be part of the problem , I bought the controller off Amazon with the intention of ordering the kt kit from china but wanted to get this bike going quickly as it's for my partner to get out from lockdown , I am still outside with it now and if I hold the walk function I can very easily stop the wheel with my hand ? Also if imitate pedaling by spinning the magnetic disk the motor runs and speeds up but again I can stop it easily with one hand and it just kind of knocks ? I'm wondering I have tried with hall disconnected but its identical unplugged everything non essential it's the same ? Gutted , it is nearly any assistance at all on incline
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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The fact you can stop the motor wheel sounds like the battery hasn't much guts to it and is lacking power.
 

Alan11222

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 11, 2020
18
3
Ok I have another 35v battery but it wont fit in the place of the original I will wire it up tomorrow and see if we have a change thanks alan
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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As long as you can somehow secure it to the bike with straps or bungies it should give you an idea if it is the battery.
 
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Alan11222

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 11, 2020
18
3
Hi an update on my fault, I tried x2 proven batterys today one from my lawnmower 36v lol and one from my fathers bike , both resulting in the same lack of power, so as the connections were the same I parked dads bike next to mine and plugged his wheel motor into my battery controller etc , presses the walk along button and his wheel whizzed into motion with much more power than mine , so that only leaves a faulty motor on my bike , thought I would have a look inside for anything untoward but it's all clean as new in there no burnt wires , windings all good but I did break the hall sensor wires trying to check the pcb , removed hall sensors and it runs exactly the same distinct lack of power , I'm torn as to what to do now , do I order a new wheel and hub for the back ? Will i get one with one gear on the hub like mine?

Or do I disconnect rear as it free wheels nicely and put a front hub wheel on ?

Or do I cut my losses ?

I have no idea what's can be wrong with that motor but there was a distinct difference between my dads 250w wheel

Thanks for all your help so far appreciate you taking the time to help

Cheers alan
 

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