Husband and I would appreciate help to choose first e bikes. We wish to cycle on a flat trail nearby but then have to push bikes up a very steep prolonged hill to our home. We are both tall but have limited stamina due to health conditions hence now the need for e bikes. I would like as light as possible step through bike. Prefer to spend under £1500. Tried a ride on a Batribike Perdu and liked it but found it a little noisy. Any suggestions appreciated. Thank you
Help! Help To choose first e bikes.
- Thread starter Klossie
- Start date
Are you expecting to walk/push up that big hill? With a suitable bike you should be able to ride up it.
Was lightness mainly because of the effort of that uphill push? Most bikes have a walk assist that will let the motor pull the bikes while you are walking beside it. That means weight is not so important for the uphill slog. (Several have this fixed at 6kph, which is quite a brisk uphill walk for many.)
If you do want to ride up the hill and given your stamina comment you probably want a cadence sensor rather than a torque sensor, as that will let the motor power you to its full capacity without needing significant effort from you; you just need to keep the pedals turning but not to put in any effort. Torque sensors give a more intuitive ride but probably not right for you as they limit motor output based on your input effort (typically on highest power setting they provide the main 3/4 to 2/3 but expect 1/4 to 1/3 from you) . Most more expensive bikes have torque sensors.
Woosh Big Bear low step would probably get you up the hill, but it certainly isn't lightweight.
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You might find a sale on old model Raleigh Motus or Cube that would just get under your £1500. BUT those are torque sensor so may well not suit.
Was lightness mainly because of the effort of that uphill push? Most bikes have a walk assist that will let the motor pull the bikes while you are walking beside it. That means weight is not so important for the uphill slog. (Several have this fixed at 6kph, which is quite a brisk uphill walk for many.)
If you do want to ride up the hill and given your stamina comment you probably want a cadence sensor rather than a torque sensor, as that will let the motor power you to its full capacity without needing significant effort from you; you just need to keep the pedals turning but not to put in any effort. Torque sensors give a more intuitive ride but probably not right for you as they limit motor output based on your input effort (typically on highest power setting they provide the main 3/4 to 2/3 but expect 1/4 to 1/3 from you) . Most more expensive bikes have torque sensors.
Woosh Big Bear low step would probably get you up the hill, but it certainly isn't lightweight.
Woosh Big Bear LS | MTB electric bicycle from Woosh
The Woosh Big Bear Low Step, a very sturdy electric bike 36V 15AH/17AH battery from Woosh.
wooshbikes.co.uk
You might find a sale on old model Raleigh Motus or Cube that would just get under your £1500. BUT those are torque sensor so may well not suit.
I live 400 feet above sea level and the coast is a mile away! So I spend ages along the coast and then my return journey is a very steep long hill on the final stretch. I have found that my KahlKoff does the trick because it enables me to 'work out' as and when I please but it also has that 'turbo' boost should I ever feel the need to ask for assistance.
By default, electric bikes are heavy but this is cancelled out when you tap into the torque that the electric motor offers. Don't concern yourself therefore about weight.
What you need to ask is: what motor do I need to navigate the biggest hill in my area. This will then provide you with the correct set up in the event you need to call on it.
My settings are:
ECO - equivalent of half a person assisting.
TOUR - additional person assisting.
SPORT - 1.5 persons.
TURBO - 3 persons!
(or thereabouts).
I'm sure the pedelec afficionado's will correct me here but, electric biking is all about "cadence" or "spinning" in that provided you maintain a healthy cycling 'rate' of rotation of the pedals, the bike is working at its optimum and you are getting the best workout from it.
For me - once I managed to manage this to best avail.......it has transformed my appetite for exercise.
If you buy an electric bike that can't negotiate your steep hills - this will prove to be a false economy and put you off e-bikes for good.
I would suggest looking at atleast: 400+watts from the motor.
My KK is 540watts.
By default, electric bikes are heavy but this is cancelled out when you tap into the torque that the electric motor offers. Don't concern yourself therefore about weight.
What you need to ask is: what motor do I need to navigate the biggest hill in my area. This will then provide you with the correct set up in the event you need to call on it.
My settings are:
ECO - equivalent of half a person assisting.
TOUR - additional person assisting.
SPORT - 1.5 persons.
TURBO - 3 persons!
(or thereabouts).
I'm sure the pedelec afficionado's will correct me here but, electric biking is all about "cadence" or "spinning" in that provided you maintain a healthy cycling 'rate' of rotation of the pedals, the bike is working at its optimum and you are getting the best workout from it.
For me - once I managed to manage this to best avail.......it has transformed my appetite for exercise.
If you buy an electric bike that can't negotiate your steep hills - this will prove to be a false economy and put you off e-bikes for good.
I would suggest looking at atleast: 400+watts from the motor.
My KK is 540watts.
Hello Klossie
Such a difficult question to answer as it depends on so many factors. Your best bet (and I appreciate it's nigh on impossible at the moment), is to try as many different bikes as you can, and as many different drive train options as possible.
How tall are you and how much do you weigh? How long and how steep is the hill in question?
There are certainly several e-bike companies on this site, who will have bikes to suit you, that are also in your price bracket.
My Wife has a Wisper 705SE. Whenever we go out, I'm reminded what a good bike it is. Pop the saddle up a bit and it'll haul my 16st, 6'4" frame along quite nicely. My Whyte has an 11.4ah battery and does the job nicely, but I wouldn't want a smaller battery than that (having said that I'm looking at my Wife's Wisper battery and am surprised to see it's a 36v 8ah battery!). You really want to be in double figures for ah - 13 is a good target. Had my Whyte Coniston not turned up unexpectedly, I'd have bought a Wisper 905.
The Woosh Big Bear is a good shout, although Woosh have several other models that might suit your needs.
Happy bike hunting!
Gaz
Such a difficult question to answer as it depends on so many factors. Your best bet (and I appreciate it's nigh on impossible at the moment), is to try as many different bikes as you can, and as many different drive train options as possible.
How tall are you and how much do you weigh? How long and how steep is the hill in question?
There are certainly several e-bike companies on this site, who will have bikes to suit you, that are also in your price bracket.
My Wife has a Wisper 705SE. Whenever we go out, I'm reminded what a good bike it is. Pop the saddle up a bit and it'll haul my 16st, 6'4" frame along quite nicely. My Whyte has an 11.4ah battery and does the job nicely, but I wouldn't want a smaller battery than that (having said that I'm looking at my Wife's Wisper battery and am surprised to see it's a 36v 8ah battery!). You really want to be in double figures for ah - 13 is a good target. Had my Whyte Coniston not turned up unexpectedly, I'd have bought a Wisper 905.
The Woosh Big Bear is a good shout, although Woosh have several other models that might suit your needs.
Happy bike hunting!
Gaz
Best bikes I have for people with heart condition are the folding Rambletta and the full size Dutch style Santana3.
Both are capable of carrying a 17st rider up an 8%-10% gradient.
The Rambletta is lightweight and easy to carry, with 12AH battery gives about 40 miles from a full charge, a bit less on throttle alone.
The Santana3 with 17AH battery gives about 60 miles from a full charge, a bit less on throttle alone.
Both will fit your budget and have a throttle just in case you can't pedal.
The Rambletta | Powerful Foldable Electric Bikes with 10.4AH semi-hidden battery from Woosh
The Woosh Rambletta is the most recent 20kg folding bike from Woosh, with a large 36V * 10.4AH semi-hidden battery, very easy to stowaway, perfect for camping / caravanning.
wooshbikes.co.uk
The Santana 3 | Electric Bikes from Woosh
The Santana3, a new lightweight and powerful step through electric bike with 36V 15AH/17AH battery from Woosh.
wooshbikes.co.uk
The ah of a battery sets its capacity (strictly its the watt hours, wh, which is voltage * wh). That will effect the range.
What is import for pulling power is the amps the battery can deliver, and for how long a period. That is less often quoted. A bigger ah battery may well be able to deliver more amps (eg if it is made from more of the same cells); this is not always the case. Generally a higher quality battery with better cells can deliver more amps.
My Wife has a Wisper 705SE. Whenever we go out, I'm reminded what a good bike it is. Pop the saddle up a bit and it'll haul my 16st, 6'4" frame along quite nicely. My Whyte has an 11.4ah battery and does the job nicely, but I wouldn't want a smaller battery than that (having said that I'm looking at my Wife's Wisper battery and am surprised to see it's a 36v 8ah battery!). You really want to be in double figures for ah - 13 is a good target. Had my Whyte Coniston not turned up unexpectedly, I'd have bought a Wisper 905.
Quite a bit of copying and pasting has been going on lately Gaz, this poster isn't the only one. I don't get it.
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