Help on controller

[thewelshsiliconekid]

Hi all,
Its the Welshsiliconekid here again now with my problem that I pray one of you brilliant brains can help with. Please excuse because this could be a long post as I think I should explain everything from the start.
I have an ezee sprint and my wife has the sport (about 12 years old) both have the same batteries and motors etc which hopefully helps.
My bike was running fine when I put it away, next time I came to use it the controller was flashing with 12 flashes indicating a failed controller. So I check all the paper work that came with it that said it was a 350 watt motor and the controller was 20 amp max supply with 31 volt protection. So I purchased 500 watt sine wave controller that had 20 amp max and 30 volt protection from Torquetec (and I must say Dan has been very helpful in this) and fitted this to the bike with a lot of wire soldering etc. I also purchased an LD5 handle bar display unit to set everything up. After connecting up the motor and testing the motor ran in reverse so altered according to online instructions (did actually try all 36 combination) and motor runs up to full speed but with low power. If you apply the front brake (brake cable disconnected) and turn on the throttle the motor tries to turn but a bit jerky and jumps into reverse. If you run motor up to full speed and apply the brake motor comes under power, slows down and suddenly stops and jumps into reverse again. At that point it’s drawing 19 plus amps at about 31 volts. Because the display stays on I think the controller is breaking the supply, also it stays in reverse for about 2 seconds about the same time as it takes the controller to power down. Release the throttle and the motor will fire up again as before. After speaking to Dan at Torquetec and trying several things he thought the new controller was faulty and so replaced it. After fitting the new one, you guest it the same thing happens. I have tested it with my wife’s battery and exactly the same, and her bike runs perfect on both batteries. So I brought here bike front wheel next to mine, disconnected here motor and connected my wiring (with some small colour cables with crocodile clips) to my controller and here motor acts exactly the same. This should rule out my motor for faults. But I have checked my motor coils with an ohms test and the halls sensors, also checked for cogging etc and all checks out fine. So now I’m completely lost as to the problem. The only thing I can think of is that perhaps my motor is a square wave (it’s always been a bit noisy) and just dose not like the sine wave controller, but I thought they would work ok.
Any help would be very very appreciate.
Gerald.

 

[wheeliepete]

Sounds like you are stil running the wrong phase/hall sensor combo, there are often several that work. I can't think of anything else that would make the motor behave like that.

 

[thewelshsiliconekid]

Hi,
As I said I’ve tried all 36 different combinations that are possible. It works forward and at full speed on only 2 set ups but with the same outcome.
Many thanks for your thoughts, its certainly got me stumped.

 

[matthewslack]

Hi,
As I said I’ve tried all 36 different combinations that are possible. It works forward and at full speed on only 2 set ups but with the same outcome.
Many thanks for your thoughts, its certainly got me stumped.

You seem to have eliminated many causes by using a second bike for comparison.

So almost certainly a controller, or controller wiring, issue. I'm sure you have checked everything multiple times already.

Leaves me wondering if there is a hall sensor timing issue, I.e. is the eZee controller set up different to the new one?

And is the use of a non eZee controller just an availability issue?

 

[danielrlee]

Hi Gerald

I was thinking of you this morning and that I hadn’t heard from you in the last few days and then ‘up you popped’ in this thread.

I am thoroughly disappointed to read that the replacement controller I sent you hasn’t made any difference to your issue. I am confident that the replacement controller was functioning correctly at the point of dispatch and that that there are no common faults with the entire batch of controllers.

I am starting to suspect that the motors featured on your Ezee Sprint bikes have some kind of compatibility issue with ‘KT’ controllers and that there is little you can do to resolve this. I would be happy to accept a return of the controllers supplied for a refund, as discussed previously, if you still wish to do so.

Dan

 

[thewelshsiliconekid]

Hi Dan,
That really is kind of you but I’ve had to cut the cables and solder more on etc so they wouldn’t be any good for you to sell on. So by that it’s my problem and not yours, but that’s very kind indeed for offering. I was Wondering if a standard square wave controller would maybe do the trick or am I just clutching at straws ? Trouble is I can’t seem to find out any info on these motors.

 

[science.raven]

Well done for your efforts to troubleshoot the bike, sounds like a difficult one, could be difference degrees of motor and controller, i.e. theyre not compatible, incompatible ebrake resistance level confusing controller, burnt coil on controller, damaged hall sensor etc, that would mean it rolls forwards but it judders, which isn't what you've described.

Sine wave and square wave are completely inter-compatible, it's just a slight different in the shape which gives little extra efficiency... they still have the same degrees of movement, like 60 or 120. The pulses of the 3 phases pull the accellerate the motor, it doesn't matter if they are square or sine... If it jumps into reverse and so forth, it could be a problem with the degrees of the motor???

Some motors are 60 degrees geometry and some are 120 or something, you can research which is the most common, I think 120 is. Controllers have to know the degrees that the motor pulses go round, something, i haven;'t researched that side of things.

Your text is difficult to read. Basically, your bike is going round at low power and maximum speed? so you can accelerate sitting on the bike but slowly? and then all this stuff happens with going into reverse, etc, but you don't have lights on the new controller to tell you error codes?

I've just kept with infineon and grinfineon controllers since I started, they are a bit overpowerful but they can be limited in the software using the cycle analyst.

Try disconnect some elements like the ebrake which can have different ranges of resistance and confuse the controller, remove all non-essentials, and see what you can do.

Normally, a motor is the easiest simplest thing in the world, just plug in 3 phases and a throttle, and sensor wires if necessary. I have an ebike that can run on sensorless too, so if there is a problem on a sensor wire, i just take off the sensor wires and it still runs.

Motors can get burnt sensors and stuff from damaged controllers, then you have to check the resistance of the phase wires while turning round the motor or something whacky. double check if your motor and controller are compatible, BTW you can post images of both here.

good luck