Help needed with Juicy bike - Battery connection

[Lancslass]

Hi, I haven't been on here for awhile but my 5 year old Juicy Click has just let me down and I need help with it.
The bike has been my saviour to be honest over the past 15 months as I have a kidney transplant and have been shielding with my Husband. So getting out on the bike has been a god-send and something to look forward to.
Over the past year the electrics have occasionally cut out. I have turned it on and off again and it has started up again. The last couple of times we had to take out the battery and slot it back in again to get it going. The battery, apart from this fault , is charging up and working fine.
Today it just wouldn't keep going and we had to ride it back home minus electrics.
My Husband has disconnected and reconnected the upper rubber control unit connections which has made no difference. We just don't know what else to try. We can't get it to a repairer as we have no transport that we can use (both our cars are 2 seaters.). We live in North Bolton.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated please.

 

[vfr400]

You can diagnose the cause of your problem by watching the battery charge indicator on your LCD.

When your battery is fully charged, it should show that. What does it show?
What happens to it at the time of cut-out? Does it still show full? Does it sink down then LCD goes off? Does the LCD just switch off suddenly.? When you get the bike going again after cut-out, what does it show when working the motor.

If you can answer those questions, we can get quickly to the cause of your problem.

 

[Lancslass]

You can diagnose the cause of your problem by watching the battery charge indicator on your LCD.

When your battery is fully charged, it should show that. What does it show?
What happens to it at the time of cut-out? Does it still show full? Does it sink down then LCD goes off? Does the LCD just switch off suddenly.? When you get the bike going again after cut-out, what does it show when working the motor.

If you can answer those questions, we can get quickly to the cause of your problem.

Thanks for responding.
Assuming that you are referring to the LED on the top of the battery, it is showing fully charged correctly. When the power cuts out it still shows fully charged and again when the controller briefly comes on, the LED is showing full charged. In summary, the lights on the battery never go off whether the power cuts out or in the brief moments when it is working nor at any time in between.
Does this suggest that the problem is with the handlebar display unit? When the power cuts out, the handlebar unit turns off completely.

 

[vfr400]

I'm referring to the battery display in the LCD, not the battery. The LCD is the thing on the handlebars. The controller is housed in the compartment under the battery.

 

[Lancslass]

I'm referring to the battery display in the LCD, not the battery. The LCD is the thing on the handlebars. The controller is housed in the compartment under the battery.

Sorry. I'll try to get it to come back on again tomorrow and get back to you. I do know that the LCD had been showing full charged on the display whenever the battery has been charged fully. The charge display seems to gradually go down as it should do on a ride. And that the display cuts out completely as the power cuts out. I'm not sure I will be able to get it to come back on for long enough to be able to answer your final question, as it is only staying on for a few seconds now before the power cuts and the display goes off suddenly and completely.

 

[EBikerBob]

The most likely fault is with the battery switch, which is mechanical and so prone to wear. Juicy should still stock these and if you or your husband can solder then it's an easy swap. Shouldn't cost very much and is easily posted to your home.
Should be much less traumatic than swapping kidneys! Glad you're back in the saddle.

 

[Lancslass]

The most likely fault is with the battery switch, which is mechanical and so prone to wear. Juicy should still stock these and if you or your husband can solder then it's an easy swap. Shouldn't cost very much and is easily posted to your home.
Should be much less traumatic than swapping kidneys! Glad you're back in the saddle.

Hi Bob, nice to hear from you. Where is the battery switch exactly? Do you mean where the key goes into the battery? We can't solder but we know someone who can so if it doesn't cost much it's worth a try. I have sent an email asking for help from Juicy as well so hope to get something from them tomorrow.

 

[Lancslass]

Assuming that the battery switch is the ignition switch Bob, is this video going to be roughly what we see when we exchange locks?

[/QUOTE]

 

[vfr400]

Before doing anything, solder a wire across the two connections at the back of the switch to bypass it. If that fixes the problem, then you can replace the switch, otherwise you need to look elsewhere for the cause.

While you test, you can lift the battery off its connections when not used, which is the same as switching it off.

 

[Lancslass]

Before doing anything, solder a wire across the two connections at the back of the switch to bypass it. If that fixes the problem, then you can replace the switch, otherwise you need to look elsewhere for the cause.

While you test, you can lift the battery off its connections when not used, which is the same as switching it off.

I have read back over other threads with the same problem and this morning we took the head off the battery and tested the connections with a multi metre. Definitely faulty intermittently as we move them around. We confirmed this by re seating the battery with the head off and the switch out and again wiggled the switch unit around at the same time using the handlebar controller to check whether it was sending power to the LCD unit. Again this confirmed an intermittent fault as we played with the hanging switch. Hubby has already come to the decision to cut the two wires on the switch and connect them together to see if this gives a solid power output and that is our job for the afternoon! Will let you know how we go on and thanks for your reply.

 

[Lancslass]

I have read back over other threads with the same problem and this morning we took the head off the battery and tested the connections with a multi metre. Definitely faulty intermittently as we move them around. We confirmed this by re seating the battery with the head off and the switch out and again wiggled the switch unit around at the same time using the handlebar controller to check whether it was sending power to the LCD unit. Again this confirmed an intermittent fault as we played with the hanging switch. Hubby has already come to the decision to cut the two wires on the switch and connect them together to see if this gives a solid power output and that is our job for the afternoon! Will let you know how we go on and thanks for your reply.

 

[Lancslass]

We have connected the two wires on the switch and everything now appears to be working once more with stable power output.
Hubby is possibly going to either fit an on/off switch or fully replace the switch unit so that we don't have to use the handlebar LCD control to power on and off but we will see how we get on with an extended ride first to make sure the problem is properly resolved. Deep breath!! Got my lovely bike back on the road! Thanks all.

 

[vfr400]

Sometimes, the solder joints on the back of the switch crack and go intermittent. All they need is resoldering, so if your bike does work properly now, you might find that it'll continue to work by just reattaching the wires to the switch.

 

[Lancslass]

Sometimes, the solder joints on the back of the switch crack and go intermittent. All they need is resoldering, so if your bike does work properly now, you might find that it'll continue to work by just reattaching the wires to the switch.

Thanks for that idea VFR. Gives us something else to pursue if everything remains stable. I was heartbroken last night with the thought that my bike may be off the road for awhile. So glad that we were pointed in the right direction as to where the fault might lie by you helpful guys.

 

[Nealh]

Good easy fix, glad you are all nearly sorted.
The re- soldering of the switch contacts is well worth trying as a bad solder isn't uncommon.

 

[Lancslass]

Just letting people know that we have been for an afternoon ride and the battery performed perfectly so it looks like we have corrected the fault. I now turn off the battery with the handlebar LCD controller instead of using the key but that is no problem at all so we will probably leave things as they are now. Thanks again, I'm one happy bunny to be back on the road again in this beautiful weather.