HELP NEEDED!! : Wiring

[toy breaker]

Looking to pick some brains here.
Below is a pic of the wiring from the 250w hub motor, the standard 3 phase, but also 3 wires i assume is the hall (RED,WHITE,BLACK)
i have a faulty motor controller so have decided to buy a replacement part from ebay, unfortunately i couldnt get a factory replacement from Swifty as their contact number is dead and the email address has been shut down as well



The original controller below, wiring from left to right 3 phase (yellow,blue,green) and power input (red,black), power assist, hall?, 5pin remote and the 2 brake lines


Below is the replacement unit (if i get what is pictured, after all it is an ebay special), which the 3 phase, power, display and brake are easy enough to figure, im guessing the power assist to the 1:1 accelerator? I am assuming the Red, black and white wires from the 6pin hall sensor connector are what i would need to wire up to my red,black white wires from the wheel hub, and not the "speed throttle" as shown in the below pic although this would connect to the original cable from the hub?
Also is there anything i could look out for on a meter to ensure im wiring up correctly before i connect it up to the hub?



Thanking you for reading and your invaluable knowledge in advance.

 

[Nealh]

The hub is unsensored and three thin wires are for a hall sensor and in your case an internal speed sensor.

 

[Nealh]

PAS on the old controller is easy and you should know this from disconnecting it form the PAS by following the wiring, it should be the Red/Black/Blue. The Red/White /Black being the hub internal speed sensor.

As you have deduced by logic the motor thin wires need to connect to the same three wires in the 6 wire hall connector.
With that controller you now have the ability to add a throttle if required.

And yes PASS IS 1:1 accelerator.

Vfr knows more about the Brainpower as to whether it works ok sensor less as the main sensors are A/B/C or Green/Yellow/Blue which your hub doesn't have.

 

[Nealh]

You will also need a compatible display.

 

[toy breaker]

PAS on the old controller is easy and you should know this from disconnecting it form the PAS by following the wiring, it should be the Red/Black/Blue. The Red/White /Black being the hub internal speed sensor.

As you have deduced by logic the motor thin wires need to connect to the same three wires in the 6 wire hall connector.
With that controller you now have the ability to add a throttle if required.

And yes PASS IS 1:1 accelerator.

Vfr knows more about the Brainpower as to whether it works ok sensor less as the main sensors are A/B/C or Green/Yellow/Blue which your hub doesn't have.

Thanks for your reply, I have ordered it with the display, hopefully the 3 wires will suffice, either that or I'm stuck, and may have to strip down the hub and install a different hall unit

 

[wheeliepete]

Thanks for your reply, I have ordered it with the display, hopefully the 3 wires will suffice, either that or I'm stuck, and may have to strip down the hub and install a different hall unit

I'm sure i've read on here that the Brainpower controller runs sensored and sensorless, so you should be OK.

 

[toy breaker]

after doing some searching i found aliexpress are selling the boards required to adapt to standard hall sensors, found a 6 pin variant for my particular demand, and after seeing the part it made a bit more sense to me regarding how its powered and the signal lines, would really like to do without having to strip the back wheel assembly so hopefully like Wheeliepete said i might not have to!
other thing that my hub might not be equipped with, is the magnets, as i assume the speed sensor only has 1 magnet pass per revolution, where as the ABC's require a band around the outer edge

 

[toy breaker]

Update:
So, the motor controller arrived, wasnt a brainpower model which wasnt a surprise... anyway the cables were pretty much the same as the BP, the system wouldnt work with pedal assist, but this could be down to the lack of hall sensors in the hub, So bought a thumb throttle and this got things moving... But not before taking apart the hub as i thought the clutch/gearing had failed, i could hear the motor spinning up but no drive, this was basically down to the wiring, had to swap over the 3 phase cables which did the trick... whilst the motor was stripped down, taking notice of the small circuit board inside, it had 3 empty positions for the YGB halls and 3 extra holes for the wires, so a future mod will be to install 3 hall sensors and get a new cable with the extra 3 wires hopefully sometime soon.
some issues that i have got currently is:-

1, no pedal assist

2, the motor seems to be intermittent with power on full at low speeds

3, The red black power cables in the Hall sensor loop on the controller doesnt give 5 volts (will take a 5v feed from another output to remedy this)

Hopefully by sorting out the hall sensors, this should remedy the issues.

other thing is i am using a 350w controller with a 250w hub... maybe this is causing a few troubles?

 

[Nealh]

PAS has nothing to do with the hub, PAS works with sensored and sensor less hubs.
1. If PAS isn't working then it is either set up incorrect or the wire sequence is incorrect.

2. What is the battery continuous rating (amps) and the controller amp rating ?
Is the hub motor cable connection pushed fully home, it's not uncommon to find it will move another 1 or 2 mm together.

 

[toy breaker]

PAS has nothing to do with the hub, PAS works with sensored and sensor less hubs.
1. If PAS isn't working then it is either set up incorrect or the wire sequence is incorrect.

2. What is the battery continuous rating (amps) and the controller amp rating ?
Is the hub motor cable connection pushed fully home, it's not uncommon to find it will move another 1 or 2 mm together.

I'm assuming the PAS is wired correctly as there's an led that lights up shown in pic... all cables are securely together, as for battery rating, the motor and battery are from a factory spec bike, the only change is the motor controller.
battery rated just over 10 amps controller goes to 13amps

 

[Nealh]

The battery can't supply enough power for the controller and is underrated, using throttle shows up the lack of power delivery. The controller at 13a asking for 30% more power then the battery is capable of.

Is the pas disc to sensor gap 1mm ?
The PAS could still be wired incorrect, the led should blink as a magnet passes it. We need to see the wire colours currently as the PAS is connected, if wire sequence is incorrect then a false signal may be being received.

Did the controller come with a new display and if, is it fitted ?

Does the display have a settings or a manual as a setting could be wrong for the PAS.

 

[toy breaker]

The battery can't supply enough power for the controller and is underrated, using throttle shows up the lack of power delivery. The controller at 13a asking for 30% more power then the battery is capable of.

Is the pas disc to sensor gap 1mm ?
The PAS could still be wired incorrect, the led should blink as a magnet passes it. We need to see the wire colours currently as the PAS is connected, if wire sequence is incorrect then a false signal may be being received.

Did the controller come with a new display and if, is it fitted ?

Does the display have a settings or a manual as a setting could be wrong for the PAS.
[/QUOT

The battery can't supply enough power for the controller and is underrated, using throttle shows up the lack of power delivery. The controller at 13a asking for 30% more power then the battery is capable of.

Is the pas disc to sensor gap 1mm ?
The PAS could still be wired incorrect, the led should blink as a magnet passes it. We need to see the wire colours currently as the PAS is connected, if wire sequence is incorrect then a false signal may be being received.

Did the controller come with a new display and if, is it fitted ?

Does the display have a settings or a manual as a setting could be wrong for the PAS.

The controller came with a display, which has been fitted.
i will have more time over the weekend to adjust settings, when i find a diagram with the settings for the programs, i have set the voltage correctly along with wheel size but the other stuff i need some instructions of some kind to know what they are, as all i got in the box was a controller and display without any chinglish instructions to help me out.
potentially yes the battery may not supply enough amps, although the same jitters from the motor can be felt under load at lower power settings also, so im not totally sure its amps saturation from the battery...
i bought the bike from auction as faulty, so i dont know how the bike ran before the old controller gave in.
i will try changing the pinouts on the hall for the PAS to see if that changes anything, was just afraid of killing the sensor by wiring up incorrectly.
distance is a couple of MM between sensor and magnets

 

[Nealh]

How many power levels ?
Feeling the same in the power levels as the throttle indicates it is speed control and each level will give max current, so the battery will be struggling however it is used.

We will need to see the wiring on the PAS & controller connection to see if the sequence needs changing. Not all wire sequence from controllers are in the same order.

 

[toy breaker]

How many power levels ?
Feeling the same in the power levels as the throttle indicates it is speed control and each level will give max current, so the battery will be struggling however it is used.

We will need to see the wiring on the PAS & controller connection to see if the sequence needs changing. Not all wire sequence from controllers are in the same order.

I will pull it apart over the weekend and take some snaps, however going off the amp meter from the display and putting a little amount of throttle on with power level set at 1 the amps don't reach anywhere near 10 under load, holding the bike from moving causes the jitter... although it powers along nicely under full throttle, at full power once the bike is moving