Hello from Bulgaria

[BG bicycle]

My third E-bike build, first battery build, first usage of the SW900 LCD controller and my have E-bikes progressed, wonderful to have access to all those parameters.

Choose the folding bicycle basis I already owned the unit, fits in a mini bus thus handy if ever a problem, bicycle is aluminium construction.

It’s a work in progress and has a cargo or trailer when I require.

Battery LG MH1 36 volts 35.2ah or approximate 1.2kwh. 500 watt rear hub motor with speed restriction via LCD controller and via the motor controller. Overall distance unrestricted 30km and restricted 50kms plus. Front and rear tyres now both Schwalbe Marathon.

I cycle around Yambol and Sliven area of Bulgaria. Plenty of dirt tracks. Here I’m taking a short cut to another village.

 

[Deleted member 22539]

Hello from the UK

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I guess that motor was sold as part of a kit. The kits are rated at 500w because of the controller, which is normally around 22 amps, but they supply exactly the same motor in the 750w and 1000w kits with different controllers. Also, the 500w kit is normally 36v and the 750w and 1000w kits are 48v, which makes the motor run 33% faster.

 

[BG bicycle]

I guess that motor was sold as part of a kit. The kits are rated at 500w because of the controller, which is normally around 22 amps, but they supply exactly the same motor in the 750w and 1000w kits with different controllers. Also, the 500w kit is normally 36v and the 750w and 1000w kits are 48v, which makes the motor run 33% faster.

I suspect are indeed correct D8veh. I’ve owned both a 1000w and 750w wheel hubs although from Conhis Motors. This alleged 500w motor pulls 900 watts (according to the SW900) when unrestricted top speed beyond 50kmh therefore add 33% to that and parity with a 1000w 48v motor.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

900w is provided by the controller and independent of the motor type. Your same motor would pull 1400w if you used a 35A controller. The maximum speed would be the same, but it would reach it a lot quicker if it didn't twist the axle out of your frame first.

 

[BG bicycle]

900w is provided by the controller and independent of the motor type. Your same motor would pull 1400w if you used a 35A controller. The maximum speed would be the same, but it would reach it a lot quicker if it didn't twist the axle out of your frame first.

I’ll keep to the lower power unit wouldn’t want the motor departing the bicycle.

Very pleased accomplished yesterday 40kms and on full charge. I did peddle although nought strenuous. The final 23kms was on full throttle 60km in total. 80kms is the goal and I believe attainable on that battery.

The LG MH1 batteries appears to have improved their capacity given now seen a few charges. Must check the cell voltages via the cell monitoring leads.

 

[BG bicycle]

Battery box and means of attachment to the bicycle now on the list of improvements.

 

[BG bicycle]

First attempt at a battery build. Without an enclosure to keep the pressure on the caps (wasn’t possible the discharge/charging cables prevent) the design was always doomed to fail. Bulgarian roads and dirt tracks soon pull the caps from the battery.

 

[craiggor]

First attempt at a battery build. Without an enclosure to keep the pressure on the caps (wasn’t possible the discharge/charging cables prevent) the design was always doomed to fail. Bulgarian roads and dirt tracks soon pull the caps from the battery.


View attachment 24753

To keep the pressure on the caps I used M4 nuts and bolts. Was told on the Endless Sphere forum it would be wiser to use nylon bolts in case there was a crushing accident and the steel bolts could cause a short and fire. I think if any battery is going to be in a accident where it is crushed there is chance of a short no matter how the battery is constructed. When I can find some 100/110mm nylon bolts I will use them nylon threaded rod is expensive. I cut the post holes in half around the bolt holes. Hold them together while drilling or they will come apart. I had to put the bolts inboard of the posts and not on the outside because if I put the bolt heads on top of the posts they would not fit in my battery box. If you are not pushed for space you can use kitchen chopping board to sandwich the caps and bolt that all together.
To get over the problem of the wire sticking proud of the posts and not allowing the sandwich material to lay flat on top of the posts I carefully bent the copper u clamp terminals to go around the nuts and cut post to make room for the wire. I think you would need to shorten your wire between your copper u clamps terminals to do this. I have measured my v2 kit and the posts are 0.8 mm taller than my v1 kit in photos.I think your v1.5 kit is the same dimensions as a v2 kit so you have that 0.8 mm extra height to get your wires flat. I also drilled holes in the posts to pass the balance wires through.

Sent from my T1005 using Tapatalk

 

[BG bicycle]

To keep the pressure on the caps I used M4 nuts and bolts. Was told on the Endless Sphere forum it would be wiser to use nylon bolts in case there was a crushing accident and the steel bolts could cause a short and fire. I think if any battery is going to be in a accident where it is crushed there is chance of a short no matter how the battery is constructed. When I can find some 100/110mm nylon bolts I will use them nylon threaded rod is expensive. I cut the post holes in half around the bolt holes. Hold them together while drilling or they will come apart. I had to put the bolts inboard of the posts and not on the outside because if I put the bolt heads on top of the posts they would not fit in my battery box. If you are not pushed for space you can use kitchen chopping board to sandwich the caps and bolt that all together.
To get over the problem of the wire sticking proud of the posts and not allowing the sandwich material to lay flat on top of the posts I carefully bent the copper u clamp terminals to go around the nuts and cut post to make room for the wire. I think you would need to shorten your wire between your copper u clamps terminals to do this. I have measured my v2 kit and the posts are 0.8 mm taller than my v1 kit in photos.I think your v1.5 kit is the same dimensions as a v2 kit so you have that 0.8 mm extra height to get your wires flat. I also drilled holes in the posts to pass the balance wires through.

Sent from my T1005 using Tapatalk

Inventive and I’m sure a solution. I in the end went with nickel strips and solder with the black battery holders that clip together. Next time I’ll use the welder.

 

[BG bicycle]

On the subject of short circuit lithium’s are lethal. I punched a hole in one and moved away from the area at great speed. Become a mini flame thrower.

Found water better than a fire extinguisher, must be the cooling effect.

Each to their own and my learning curve on lithium battery fire fighting is strictly not a guide to anyone else.

 

[flecc]

Found water better than a fire extinguisher, must be the cooling effect.

Dumping a burning lithium pack into water works well, it seems to control and contain the reaction until it ceases.
.

 

[BG bicycle]

Dumping a burning lithium pack into water works well, it seems to control and contain the reaction until it ceases.
.

Didn’t try that only a beaker with approximate 1ltr of water and worked a treat.

The powder fire extinguisher wasn’t effective the flame went out however, the thermal run away within the battery remained and water (coolant) ceased the reaction. Was a good practical learning experience.

 

[BG bicycle]

Went off road today. Some of the route was on road however, this is Bulgaria. Where at this moment the term road is loosely applied. Glad early into the ride the weather was inclement I won’t display the dirt track that became a forest and thankful the rain kept the biting insects at bay.