Hi and welcome to the forum!Hi, I’ve recently got a cyclotricity stealth 1000w. I live near Mablethorpe. Any other pedelecs in the area can help with alternative gearing?
I love my Coniston. It's quite possibly the perfect bike for me. It's got the STEPS 6010, which I like, and has, I believe 60nm of grunt, excellent brakes and a really comfy geometry (for me). The nearest I go to off road now is over Beachy Head, which is relatively smooth grass, or a couple of forest tracks with compacted surfaces. My trouble is I have a wandering eye and can't help thinking what 90nm would feel like..... what's the E8000 like.... I wonder if I'd like an e-trike etc, when I should just be happy with what I've got!Hi Gaz, thanks for your message, sounds like you’ve got the ebike bug! What do you think of yours?
Hi Ross, I’ve just sent you a message saying I don’t know how to get onto the message page to reply to you. Well don’t ask me how but I’ve managed to find this page!!.Hi and welcome to the forum!
I am very new to the forum myself and i actually also have a stealth 1000w that i have owned myself for a while and made some modifications to. In what way would you want to change the gearing? I am assuming harder ratios and maybe more of a gearing range?
Ross
ah no worries! just seen that message now but at least you have managed to figure how to do it now . I would imagine there are ways to do this so that you will get a bit more pedalling before topping out yes, I would definitely agree that a freewheel with a smaller set of cogs on would be a good first step and maybe a set of cranks with a bigger chain ring would help with this also, I can have a scout around and see what bits may be of use to you if you like? as I know the ratios anyway so I know which bits will help you get the result you want. As for my bike I have added some tektro hydraulic brakes which have the built in e-brake connectors on 7 inch rotors and an LCD with a remote and some extra info on the new display. I have done other bits but those two are the most notable reallyHi Ross, I’ve just sent you a message saying I don’t know how to get onto the message page to reply to you. Well don’t ask me how but I’ve managed to find this page!!.
Regarding the gearing, it’s very flat around here, so when I’m doing 20mph in 7th ( top gear) my legs are going round in a blur! What I want is to be able to do that speed or even more up to 30mph on the flat and it to feel nice and steady... is that possible?
What mods have you made so far.
Hi Thanks for your reply, what size chainwheel would I need, how many teeth? I’d only put a single one on , about the cassette, thanks for the offer, but I’ve seen some on eBay for about £12.00 ShimanoThere's several things you can do to raise the gearing, independently or combined:
7speed DNP freewheel withh 11T top gear
Fit a road bike crank with dual chain-rings and use a twig to swap to the smaller chain-ring if you run out of power.
Fit a single bigger chain-ring (cyclocross). Check that you have a 108 diameter spider.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DH-Enduro-MTB-Single-Chainring-BCD-104-Cyclocross-Big-Chain-Ring-50T-52T-54T-/282386241464?var=&hash=item41bf8817b8:m:m9voVz-MZeIWJZq_P0LITdw
I have some DNP freewheels for £20 if you want one or you can get them fro Aliexpress.
Hi Ross, yes any help and info would be much appreciated,my cassette (7 speed) is 14t-28t and the chainwheel is 44t. I don’t know what the design of the chainwheel is called, but rather than fixing to the carrier with 5 bolts, it is one complete pressed unit with 5 “radial spokes “ meeting at a circular cut out and that mounts on the spindle. Would a replacement chainwheel be the same design or would it be the type that easily separates from the carrier without having to remove the crank pin? If I’m not quite using the correct terminology then please bear with me, as I’m a newbie!ah no worries! just seen that message now but at least you have managed to figure how to do it now . I would imagine there are ways to do this so that you will get a bit more pedalling before topping out yes, I would definitely agree that a freewheel with a smaller set of cogs on would be a good first step and maybe a set of cranks with a bigger chain ring would help with this also, I can have a scout around and see what bits may be of use to you if you like? as I know the ratios anyway so I know which bits will help you get the result you want. As for my bike I have added some tektro hydraulic brakes which have the built in e-brake connectors on 7 inch rotors and an LCD with a remote and some extra info on the new display. I have done other bits but those two are the most notable really
Ross
Hi Chris, thanks for your message,nice to hear I’m not the only new kid on the block! What bike have you got?. PaulHi and welcome from someone in your area , I live just up the road at Saltfleet ,can not offer any help as only just bought mine also but welcome
Hi Gaz, I’ve had a look on line at the Coniston, very nice, and good quality.Yes, that’s the trouble, we are always looking for something a bit better or different!I love my Coniston. It's quite possibly the perfect bike for me. It's got the STEPS 6010, which I like, and has, I believe 60nm of grunt, excellent brakes and a really comfy geometry (for me). The nearest I go to off road now is over Beachy Head, which is relatively smooth grass, or a couple of forest tracks with compacted surfaces. My trouble is I have a wandering eye and can't help thinking what 90nm would feel like..... what's the E8000 like.... I wonder if I'd like an e-trike etc, when I should just be happy with what I've got!
Gaz
I have had a look for a 7 speed freewheel with a smaller lowest cog and the best I have found so far is 13 to 28t. which is an improvement but not the best, I know there are 10sp freewheels out there that will possibly have a better lowest cog but I will have to have a look into that a little more to know for sure. as for the cranks and chain ring size I have seen that you can get a 72t ring set up to give it an even better ratio but I'm having trouble locating one so I will keep hunting and keep you posted on that, will have to see if it fits the current crank or if it would be a different one because its a bigger size. yeah the hydraulics can be a pain to get them to fit because of the rear motor hub size so I got mine based on what Cyclotricity recommended me, they said they will be selling some themselves in the near future. I can get you a picture of the new LCD if you like, the main difference on the new one is that it tells you how much motor power you are using, tells you when the brakes are cutting the motor, motor temperature and a few other things like average speed etc, the main advantage is the remote which makes it tonnes easier to change pas setting. Don't worry about terminology with things I'm pretty new to it all as well!Hi Thanks for your reply, what size chainwheel would I need, how many teeth? I’d only put a single one on , about the cassette, thanks for the offer, but I’ve seen some on eBay for about £12.00 Shimano
Hi Ross, yes any help and info would be much appreciated,my cassette (7 speed) is 14t-28t and the chainwheel is 44t. I don’t know what the design of the chainwheel is called, but rather than fixing to the carrier with 5 bolts, it is one complete pressed unit with 5 “radial spokes “ meeting at a circular cut out and that mounts on the spindle. Would a replacement chainwheel be the same design or would it be the type that easily separates from the carrier without having to remove the crank pin? If I’m not quite using the correct terminology then please bear with me, as I’m a newbie!
Your conversions sound interesting, I did have a look on eBay for hydraulic calliper sets, but all I saw had a really long rear line that needed cutting to suit. About the LCD display unit mods you’ve done, what are the extra features? Cheers for now,Paul.
Hi PaulHi Chris, thanks for your message,nice to hear I’m not the only new kid on the block! What bike have you got?. Paul
Hi Ross, many thanks indeed for going to the trouble to help. I appreciate your advice. I decided to ring Cyclotricity and they said the chainwheel that’s on it is a “pressed form “ one. They say that any other regular square taper fit chainset will fit. The cassette is a freewheel screw on type, hope this helps. If you like, you can email me some pics of the LCD unit to ....I have had a look for a 7 speed freewheel with a smaller lowest cog and the best I have found so far is 13 to 28t. which is an improvement but not the best, I know there are 10sp freewheels out there that will possibly have a better lowest cog but I will have to have a look into that a little more to know for sure. as for the cranks and chain ring size I have seen that you can get a 72t ring set up to give it an even better ratio but I'm having trouble locating one so I will keep hunting and keep you posted on that, will have to see if it fits the current crank or if it would be a different one because its a bigger size. yeah the hydraulics can be a pain to get them to fit because of the rear motor hub size so I got mine based on what Cyclotricity recommended me, they said they will be selling some themselves in the near future. I can get you a picture of the new LCD if you like, the main difference on the new one is that it tells you how much motor power you are using, tells you when the brakes are cutting the motor, motor temperature and a few other things like average speed etc, the main advantage is the remote which makes it tonnes easier to change pas setting. Don't worry about terminology with things I'm pretty new to it all as well!
Ross
Hi Chris, thanks for your message, I’m sure you’re having a load of good rides on your Cube. I’ve just been looking and some of the models are reduced by over £400. Good deal!Hi Paul
I bought a Cube Reaction Hybrid Race 2017 model, with the Bosch drive ,really pleased with it
Regards
Chris
Hi thanks for your message and offer of the freewheel, the other day when I replied I said I’d seen some on EBay, I’d been looking at the wrong thing.!There's several things you can do to raise the gearing, independently or combined:
7speed DNP freewheel withh 11T top gear
Fit a road bike crank with dual chain-rings and use a twig to swap to the smaller chain-ring if you run out of power.
Fit a single bigger chain-ring (cyclocross). Check that you have a 108 diameter spider.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DH-Enduro-MTB-Single-Chainring-BCD-104-Cyclocross-Big-Chain-Ring-50T-52T-54T-/282386241464?var=&hash=item41bf8817b8:m:m9voVz-MZeIWJZq_P0LITdw
I have some DNP freewheels for £20 if you want one or you can get them fro Aliexpress.
no worries at all! always happy to help people out with whatever changes they want to make. Ah that is good they managed to give you the information you needed and definitely helps me get you towards the correct thing to buy. hopefully you have already found the freewheel from the other member but if not i think i may of found you one also. sure thing i will send them over as soon as i have someHi Ross, many thanks indeed for going to the trouble to help. I appreciate your advice. I decided to ring Cyclotricity and they said the chainwheel that’s on it is a “pressed form “ one. They say that any other regular square taper fit chainset will fit. The cassette is a freewheel screw on type, hope this helps. If you like, you can email me some pics of the LCD unit to ....
psutton20@googlemail.com
That sounds nice. Which one is it?it tells you how much motor power you are using, tells you when the brakes are cutting the motor, motor temperature and a few other things like average speed etc, the main advantage is the remote which makes it tonnes easier to change pas setting
That sounds nice. Which one is it?