Hello and advice on converting my bike

[wehey]

We have these in the UK, but left hand only, they are the same as were used on Mk1 eZee kits.

Do you do a 500w kit? I have just been looking at your site and can't see any. Ta

 

[Deleted member 4366]

All Ezee kits are 500w. They just have a 250w label for the UK market. They can be de-restricted too for more speed. You have nice strong forks, so a good match. You'll need the bigger battery if you want to release the full power of the motor.

 

[D8ve]

500 watt is a lot of extra for a fit cyclist. With a 250w and old fat man combo I was in the words of a fit mountain biker Dam fast. Impossible to keep up with up hill and quick away from the lights. He only stood a chance down hill.
Even 100 watts smoothly added would give you serious zing.

 

[jackhandy]

All Ezee kits are 500w. They just have a 250w label for the UK market. They can be de-restricted too for more speed.

SHHH!

 

[jackhandy]

Even 100 watts smoothly added would give you serious zing.

Have to take issue with you there, D8ve - 100 watts assist is, literally, unnoticeable on the road. On my bike, anyway.

 

[D8ve]

Sensitivity? Cycle with a normal bike then add 100watts and see who sweats and who flys. Compared to a moped 100 watts is nothing but compared to no assist 100 turns you into superman

 

[jackhandy]

Don't forget you're probably adding up to one & a half stone, for motor & battery, to your all-up weight.

 

[D8ve]

If we talk a legal system with 15 mph cut out. You need less than 200 watts to cycle at this speed. So a 100w system would mean l almost no pedal input to cruse along. In fact for 100 watts from bike and you you get the calculated club cyclist crusing speed of 20 mph. The addition of an extra 5 kg makes no real difference to flat road speed.
Google cycle performance watts and speed to get an idea of the ranges of power and speed etc.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If we talk a legal system with 15 mph cut out. You need less than 200 watts to cycle at this speed. So a 100w system would mean l almost no pedal input to cruse along. In fact for 100 watts from bike and you you get the calculated club cyclist crusing speed of 20 mph.

Until you encounter a hill or the wind starts blowing.

 

[Geebee]

I have to agree that 100w is not a lot but when fitter and running a 24v Tongxin I wanted a way to halve the wattage for most purposes which would have put the power at the wheel close to 100w.
The plus side of a low powered system is lack of weight ~3 kg for hub and battery.
Weight is a big factor for climbing as I was reminded last week, I was riding my Beat bike clone (I think 180w, 14 kg all up) , and decided to ride a route with a lot of 7~10% slopes I was wondering what was going on as normally I would have to assist on these kind of hills to keep the speed up, but I was doing nothing and losing almost no speed, 2 hours later I realised the cause, I had lost 8 kg of weight

If you want exercise with the edge taken off a well designed 100w system would almost be perfect especially through the gears .

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Are we talking about an average of 100w or 100w max? Many of us have averaged 100w on a normal 36v 15 amp e-bike, but that's by pedalling over the assist limit for a lot of the time. You still use the full 600w for hill-climbing. An average of 100w is 8 wH per mile, which is about what you gdo on a 26v Panasonic if you keep to about 12 mph and don't have difficult terrain.

I think you might be under-estimating the power of your motor, Geebee. I've seen 180w motors drawing 600w from the battery. how did you determine 100w from your Tongxin and how did you halve the wattage?

If it's flat and there's no wind, 0 watts is sufficient.

 

[Geebee]

The Tongxin used to pull 360w absolute max, I ran a watt meter, allowing 75% efficiency 260~270w at the road. I wanted to halve it but had no easy way at to do it at the time, it would not have been 100w max but not to far over.
My average watt hours per km was 3 to 5 in hilly terrain and I live in the roaring 40's wind wise, the Tongxin was an assist only.

It depends on what you want or need, I was a very strong cyclist and had a developing health problem and the assist allowed me to ride with mostly human power for a lot longer.

 

[jackhandy]

Sorry - my bad: I thought we were talking of 100w on the road, rather than a 100w continuous system, which will, of course, put in excess of 200w on the road (but is still be§§er all IMHO).

I tend to think in terms of my locality, which doesn't have much, if any, flat road & does have souwesters straight in off the Atlantic.

 

[D8ve]

Until you encounter a hill or the wind starts blowing.

Yes but then the other cyclist also slows.

The op was I am a reasonable cyclist and want some extra whizz. As little as 100 watts would be some whizz 500watt is a tandem bike with lance Armstrong and some billy whizz,

 

[Cyclezee]

If the OP is a fit cyclist and only wants minimal assistance then perhaps Cytronex is the way to go http://www.cytronex.com/power-assistance.html, but if a bit more omph is required then look elesewhere.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Yes but then the other cyclist also slows.

The op was I am a reasonable cyclist and want some extra whizz. As little as 100 watts would be some whizz 500watt is a tandem bike with lance Armstrong and some billy whizz,

It depends whether you're talking about 100w max or 100w average. Which is it?

 

[D8ve]

d8veh

As the 500watt would be a continuous rate and the legal is 250 ave we go with a 100 watt ave. but up hill it is half a normal cyclists push.
A good electric bike makes you feel like superman and you forget just how slow others are as you whizz past.