Head and tail lights kit.

[goral]

Is it possible to buy somewhere, a set of lights for the bike, front and rear, so that they connect to the bafang controller?
I currently only have the front light that came with the kit.
At the back I have a cheap battery light rechargeable via USB, everything would be ok, only this light, after about 5h the battery is flat, and what's worse, I can't see it, especially during the day.
I'm looking for something that would be connected like the current lamp on the front, only with the rear lamp kit and switched on via the display. Does anyone know of something like this? Maybe someone knows how to make one themselves?

 

[thelarkbox]

Yes BUT you need to be mindful of the current limit of the transistor switching the light circuit on and off.

If you attempt to draw more current than the transistor can handle you risk blowing it and any knock-on or side effects that may have on the controllers performance.

Its a lot safer just to run lighting power direct from the battery Many sold for ebike lighting kits can accept voltages upto 60v but if you select a 6 or 12v set there are plenty of DC-DC voltage droppers available..

Using a relay switched by the controller/display to switch on/off lights powered directly from the battery is probably the safest way to achieve what you want. just confirm your current lighting voltage to match the relay coil voltage.

 

[AndyBike]

At the back I have a cheap battery light rechargeable via USB, everything would be ok, only this light, after about 5h the battery is flat, and what's worse, I can't see it, especially during the day.

You can get daybright lights. cost a bit more, but as its a safety thing, its not that much really. The important thing is not to get killed

80 quid will get you a front(Tracer) and rear (TracerR) from Exposure. Rear is £55 as a single

These lights are favoured by Roadies, which is testimony enough.

TraceR DayBright Mk3 – Exposure Lights

www.exposure-use.com

 

[guerney]

Once you start soldering lights to your ebike battery, there's loads of scope to increase your visibility. Here's my sortof current setup:




I've used cheap but bright lights. The three pointing forwards are "1800LM", "2400LM" and "1800LM". I also have a "1800LM" headlight made red pointed backwards and down a bit on the pannier rack.

Switch 1 switches them all on high prightness and constant. I can then set the "1800LM" on the left on flashing mode, by quickly switching on and off using switch 2. I can also set the read red "1800LM" flashing the same way using switch 3. I like options for day and night riding. I keep one headlight flashing during the day, and two headlights constant, rear red always flashing day and night. At night all headlights are on constant because I don't want to cause accidents. All lights are pointed down at the road, not into driver's eyes (I checked).

Light numbered 4 is the only one switched via the BBS01B DPC18 display, but once I get around to yet another rewire, it'll be connected to the ebike battery like the others with it's own switch - that light points backwards from the handlebar to illuminate my hiviz clothing, because hiviz isn't, without light shone upon it. I'm an invisible cyclist no longer! No vehicle has pulled out in front of me since.

 

[goral]

I found something like the link below.
Anyone have any experience with this kit.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ebike-Light-Waterproof-Cable-Bafang/dp/B0BQ36KJB8?th=1

 

[AGS]

That light kit is bonkers expensive. And is guaranteed to blow the lighting circuit on a KT controller.

I wouldn’t trust it on a BBSXX either.

 

[worn out]

I just converted bike with Yose front wheel kit. It only had one 2 pin Julet connector to fit supplied front light, no rear light. I just bought a rear lamp (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314830574315) and a 2 pin splitter cable (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186147795416?var=694173003260) and everything worked OK. Both the lights come on with the LCD lamp option. The front and rear lights both contain 'buck' converters, which means they work off any battery voltage (upto 60V) and efficiently reduce the voltage suitable for the low voltage/current LEDs. The additional load of a rear light to the existing front will be minimal. I don't know if Bafang use same 2 pin connectors.

 

[guerney]

I found something like the link below.
Anyone have any experience with this kit.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ebike-Light-Waterproof-Cable-Bafang/dp/B0BQ36KJB8?th=1

I'm experiencing sudden unpleasant deja vu! I haven't tried that kit, but I recall trying to use a very similar looking Y cable to attach a different lighting kit to my controller about three years ago, before it died. Worked once, then the controller became a brick. Whether that was due to the non-existent soldering skills I had at the time (much improved since, thanks to members of this forum), controller shutting down due to the detection of some error caused by that cable and/or the lights connected to it, or because of a battery short due to my inept wire stripping skills at the time, I will never know - I did send the controller to China for diagnostics, but all they did was send me a new controller for free (I paid £20 postage). I would therefore be cautious. On the other hand, a new controller is about £80 to £120 from China, so the financial hit isn't massive.

The additional load of a rear light to the existing front will be minimal. I don't know if Bafang use same 2 pin connectors.

I forgot to mention, a rear red light is also soldered to that lighting circuit on my BBS01B, but not for much longer.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Bicycle-Warning-Portable-Taillight/dp/B0899GL2JF

It's just two wires for lights from the BBS01B controller, 6V 0.5A max.

Using my reasonably accurate DVM, I measured current drawn by one these cheapo Banfang headlights at 6V:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Bicycle-Headlight-Outdoor-Waterproof/dp/B09NM3Q78S/

...and my other reasonably accurate DVM at 12V:





I haven't measured current drawn by the rear red light.

 

[goral]

I just converted bike with Yose front wheel kit. It only had one 2 pin Julet connector to fit supplied front light, no rear light. I just bought a rear lamp (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314830574315) and a 2 pin splitter cable (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186147795416?var=694173003260) and everything worked OK. Both the lights come on with the LCD lamp option. The front and rear lights both contain 'buck' converters, which means they work off any battery voltage (upto 60V) and efficiently reduce the voltage suitable for the low voltage/current LEDs. The additional load of a rear light to the existing front will be minimal. I don't know if Bafang use same 2 pin connectors.

Exactly what I was looking for!
Thanks.

I'm experiencing sudden unpleasant deja vu! I haven't tried that kit, but I recall trying to use a very similar looking Y cable to attach a different lighting kit to my controller about three years ago, before it died. Worked once, then the controller became a brick. Whether that was due to the non-existent soldering skills I had at the time (much improved since, thanks to members of this forum), controller shutting down due to the detection of some error caused by that cable and/or the lights connected to it, or because of a battery short due to my inept wire stripping skills at the time, I will never know - I did send the controller to China for diagnostics, but all they did was send me a new controller for free (I paid £20 postage). I would therefore be cautious. On the other hand, a new controller is about £80 to £120 from China, so the financial hit isn't massive.

This is why I like all kinds of forums.
Before I buy something I don't know, it's always better to ask, because maybe someone has had their own experience with something.
Thanks for this answer.

I forgot to mention, a rear red light is also soldered to that lighting circuit on my BBS01B, but not for much longer.

Why not for much longer?

 

[soundwave]

the speed of light is not fast enough in pith black when going 30mph down the canal 8000lm more like 5000lm with a 18650 cell x6.

1hr 20mins if that faster you go the longer it lasts ,needs cooling

 

[worn out]

As has no doubt been mentioned here somewhere: Power=Volts x Amps (current at low voltage equates to much less current at high voltage: buck conversion). An additional rear LED light (just illumination) is going to add trivial extra load on lamp switching circuit. The front light is going to take significantly more power (light output), but that is catered for. At battery voltage (36V in my case) the rear lamp extra draw is a few mA (thousandths of an Amp). The controller should easily deal with that or it is very poorly designed - more likely to be damaged by poor wiring practice. (If you were adding a powerful front light to a rear only light circuit, or other significant loads, I could understand the concern).

 

[Nealh]

I never had any issues with my KT S06S controller using the integral light supply, with a basic rear 36v lamp and a front lamp with integral horn switched via the the added in horn /light switch.

 

[thelarkbox]

As has no doubt been mentioned here somewhere: Power=Volts x Amps (current at low voltage equates to much less current at high voltage: buck conversion). An additional rear LED light (just illumination) is going to add trivial extra load on lamp switching circuit. The front light is going to take significantly more power (light output), but that is catered for. At battery voltage (36V in my case) the rear lamp extra draw is a few mA (thousandths of an Amp). The controller should easily deal with that or it is very poorly designed - more likely to be damaged by poor wiring practice. (If you were adding a powerful front light to a rear only light circuit, or other significant loads, I could understand the concern).

Yes as long as the draw from the rear lamp is just a few ma, I had a quick scan of the ebay ad and failed to see any watt or a/ma rating for the lamp? have you measured the load?? or did i miss it?

And as long as the total draw once the leds have warmed up is less than the controllers light switching capacity GREAT Full steam ahead.. ( my limited understanding is that hot leds are less efficient and more power hungry as they expend energy as heat?)

So as long as you have checked and are happy i will get off your back If you had not checked however i would urge you to do so pdq...

 

[worn out]

9mA (0.009A) with battery at 40.1V present state of charge. Specific item measured https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314830574315

Only the front (high brightness) LEDs will get warm.

 

[guerney]

Why not for much longer?

Because the experts here recommend not taxing the controller's tiny switching transistor for lights. Those two lights are not drawing much, but I'm not made of money and don't want to end up buying an entire new controller (or get into a time consuming repair process, if repair is possible), simply because a single tiny component like that failed avoidably. Also because that small rear red light pales into insignificance compared to the "1800LM" headlight made red and set flashing from the rear pannier rack. I'll probably wire that small rear red light to switch on with the rear facing Bafang headlight, which points backwards illuminating my hiviz jacklet or blouson or vest from the handlebar, to the same switch (I've already got a dual switch to replace single switch numbered 1 in post #4 above), powered by the ebike battery like the others. Unsure if that small red rear light will work at 36V, will test and reduce voltage to 6V utilising a gizmo if necessary, which I think I already have kicking around somewhere, bought very cheaply during the momentus and historic AliExpress sale of winter 2023/24. A truly epic sale which will long be remembered. By me anyway.

Also because I'm considering replacing that low powered Bafang headlight with a high brightness "1800LM" flashing version. I used to have a flashing torch directed at my hiviz jacket/blouson/vest from the handlebar, and judging by the effect it had on pedestrians at night, it must have looked quite stunning - produced dumbstruck faces (including cops) everywhere one Friday night, cycling through the very busy Manchester city center.

 

[Jerry Atric]

Because the experts here recommend not taxing the controller's tiny switching transistor for lights. Those two lights are not drawing much, but I'm not made of money and don't want to end up buying an entire new controller (or get into a time consuming repair process, if repair is possible), simply because a single tiny component like that failed avoidably. Also because that small rear red light pales into insignificance compared to the "1800LM" headlight made red and set flashing from the rear pannier rack. I'll probably wire that small rear red light to switch on with the rear facing Bafang headlight, which points backwards illuminating my hiviz jacklet or blouson or vest from the handlebar, to the same switch (I've already got a dual switch to replace single switch numbered 1 in post #4 above), powered by the ebike battery like the others. Unsure if that small red rear light will work at 36V, will test and reduce voltage to 6V utilising a gizmo if necessary, which I think I already have kicking around somewhere, bought very cheaply during the momentus and historic AliExpress sale of winter 2023/24. A truly epic sale which will long be remembered. By me anyway.

Also because I'm considering replacing that low powered Bafang headlight with a high brightness "1800LM" flashing version. I used to have a flashing torch directed at my hiviz jacket/blouson/vest from the handlebar, and judging by the effect it had on pedestrians at night, it must have looked quite stunning - produced dumbstruck faces (including cops) everywhere one Friday night, cycling through the very busy Manchester city center.

 

[Jerry Atric]

As a fellow Mancunian, I'd think twice about taking an armoured car through Manchester City centre when it's chucking out time on a Friday night!! You've got some bottle Guernsey!!

 

[guerney]

As a fellow Mancunian, I'd think twice about taking an armoured car through Manchester City centre when it's chucking out time on a Friday night!! You've got some bottle Guernsey!!

I was visiting a client, ended up having no choice but to cycle through. Some crazies in cars worried me stopped at traffic lights, but other than that I had no trouble at all. I was gawked at approaching, nobody jumped out in front. Groups of people outside clubs all stopped and stared at the same time. I was laughed at by groups of women (this happens all the time lol). The flashing light was directed backwards at me, not into driver's eyes. Light was blocked by my body, couldn't dazzle drivers behind. As far as I know, it isn't illegal to illuminate oneself this way whilst cycling. "1800LM" might be a bit too bright though, will try to find something smaller which flashes less brightly. However, the handlebar is now full, and a wider clamp for lights won't fit. Can't replace the handlebar for a much wider one, because then my bike won't fold.

 

[guerney]

Your headlight hasn't burned the leaves off the bushes on the left yet. Obviously needs more operating time...

1hr 20mins if that faster you go the longer it lasts ,needs cooling

...can you attach CPU/other heatsinks somehow, to make it last longer?

the speed of light is not fast enough in pith black when going 30mph down the canal 8000lm more like 5000lm with a 18650 cell x6.

At what voltage does that light cut out? What current does it draw?

It takes over 10 hours for my lights to reduce ebike battery voltage from 42V to 36V. Not insignificant drain, hence switches for those rare occasions when I'm running low on power.